Elink + Railmaster + Win10

[churchnilled]

Good Morning/Afternoon/Evening.

 

Yes I have read through the forums posts for related issues.

Let me take a minute to explain what I have and what I am attempting to do.

 

OK, so I decided to get the analogue standard DC Hornby track out of the attic as been up there since I reached my teensso we talking just a tad under 40 years in loft.

All well and good using a Double control Duette.

My grandson and I decided we wanted to go digital but I didnt want to spend to much in case my grandson does not take to digital so puirschased a 'Select' upgraded to 1.5 firmware as noted on the boot sequence 15/30-03.  

I have also installed the points clips, digital power track although Jadlam sent me R8206 instead of R8241

so removed the cap as it would not work without this being removed.

Also brought the AccDecoder R8247 but for time being I want to keep that out the equation until I can get this running properly.

I have also brought the Elink and RM but have not been able to get RM to speak to the elink.

I brought a cheapo Railroad Class 40 with TTS Which I have been unble to locate on this site

but am I right in saying that with Select Firmware 1.5 that to use the sound functions I have to select locao, then function number then function key, this has the effect of turning off or on which is a pain if you played sound once you then have to press again to turn back on which seems a long old proccess to get it to play a particular sound.

 

Not a big deal to be fair as still getting to grips with all this Hornby DCC stuff.

The main issue for me at the moment is getting RM to speak to the Elink, once I have this working I would like to go ahead and follow the guides here on the forum for installing the ADecoder to work the point motors. Currently have x7 surface mounted points (Will need another Adecoder once they all wired).

Issues:

1 - Elink not communicating with RM under win 10 (Win 10 sys info found below)

2 - Select unit, is that the only way to run sounds or if I can get Elink working better to control sounds from RM?

3 - Railroad Class 40 with Sound R3392TTS-50-078 How many sounds should work with the Select?  Anyone else had issues with this loco not playing ball when running over standard Hornby points?

I have followed this thread https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/post/view/topic_id/14036/?p=5

Which has taken me to AC's web site but still no joy with Elink communicating with RM.

Also have this bookmarked for later 

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/no-elink-instructions-in-accessory-decoder-box/?p=1

Please no RTFM as the most manuals are lacking somewhat

Kind Regards

 

Churchy

[churchnilled]

Forgot to add the layout is standard oval with extensions pack up to F

OS Name Microsoft Windows 10 HomeVersion 10.0.17134 Build 17134Other OS Description Not AvailableOS Manufacturer Microsoft CorporationSystem Name DESKTOPSystem Manufacturer ZOOSTORMSystem Model 7200-5268ASystem Type x64-based PCSystem SKU 7200-5268AProcessor Intel® Core i7-6700K CPU @ 4.00GHz, 4001 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 8 Logical Processor(s)BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. P7.30, 28/11/2016SMBIOS Version 2.8Embedded Controller Version 255.255BIOS Mode UEFIBaseBoard Manufacturer ASRockBaseBoard Model Not AvailableBaseBoard Name Base BoardPlatform Role DesktopSecure Boot State OffPCR7 Configuration Binding Not PossibleWindows Directory C:WINDOWSSystem Directory C:WINDOWSsystem32Boot Device DeviceHarddiskVolume1Locale United KingdomHardware Abstraction Layer Version = "10.0.17134.1"Username DESKTOPTime Zone GMT Summer TimeInstalled Physical Memory (RAM) 32.0 GBTotal Physical Memory 31.9 GBAvailable Physical Memory 27.7 GBTotal Virtual Memory 36.7 GBAvailable Virtual Memory 30.5 GBPage File Space 4.75 GBPage File C:pagefile.sysKernel DMA Protection OffVirtualisation-based security Not enabledDevice Encryption Support Reasons for failed automatic device encryption: TPM is not usable, PCR7 binding is not supported, Hardware Security Test Interface failed and the device is not InstantGo, Un-allowed DMA-capable bus/device(s) detected, Disabled by policy, TPM is not usableHyper-V - VM Monitor Mode Extensions YesHyper-V - Second Level Address Translation Extensions YesHyper-V - Virtualisation Enabled in Firmware YesHyper-V - Data Execution Protection Yes

[Chrissaf]

Follow the guidance on this website. Note that clicking the rounded rectangle boxes will open a screen shot that goes with the written text.

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https://octaviancs.com/railmaster/installation1.php?id=installation

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Supplement the guidance given on the page above, with the guidance on this previous post below. Note that the eLink uses the same driver as the Elite. Thus the use of the eLink and Elite terms in these guidance notes are inter-changeable.

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https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/windows-10-drivers-for-hornby-elite/?p=1

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Note that setting up RM and eLink is a multi-element task. You need to perform the tasks documented in the resource material above in this following order:

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Connect the eLink to the PC via USB let 'Plug 'n' Play' detect the eLink then install the driver. This is easier said than done, as the install driver process is not fully auto-mated and needs a lot of user input. Hence the 'How To' guidance resources mentioned above.

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Open Windows 'Device Manager' and make a note of the COMM port that the driver is using....should be 3 or 4 but not 5 or above.

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Once the driver is installed, leave the eLink powered up and 'Install' RM or run it if you have jumped ahead and installed it already.

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In RM open 'System Settings' select eLink from the 'Controller A' pull down list. Leave Controller B as none. Make sure that the COMM port number matches the one shown in Windows Device Manager. Select the following, if not already set, Baud rate = 115200, Data Bits = 8, Parity = none, Stop Bits = 1.

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Now open 'railmaster.ini' file (use the bluish COG icon found in the bottom left of the 'Help' screen).

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Make sure that these two lines are the bottom two lines of the .INI file. If they appear further up the .INI file, delete them and add them again at the bottom.

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Alternative comms=1

Check controller=1

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Save all edits and changes, then close and re-open RM. You should now have communication between RM and your eLink.

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Always use the same USB port, preferably a USB2.0 port and NOT a USB 3.0 port. Plugging the eLink into a different PC USB port will confuse RM and you may (probably will) lose eLink communication.

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After you have obtained successful communication with the eLink, then starts the laborious task of creating your track plan and loading your loco roster into RM. But that is for another day. Let's try and get your basic hardware / software installation working first.

 

[St1ngr4y]

@churchnilled

 

Please make sure you don't have the Elink and the Select connected to the track at the same time.

 

Ray

[96RAF]

Churchy

The Select at v1.5 will ‘play’ all 29 functions (F0 to F28 inclusive) where available on the TTS loco, diesels have the lot, steamers less so. It just can’t adjust much in the way of CVs except loco address and its accel/decell rates. More to come one day.

 

You are correct in your function selection methodology and yes it it a right pain in the wotsit having to turn them on and turn them off again and all without any screen indication of what is on and what is off. Press a number and then the Function button Turns it on press the number and Function again and it turns it off. Just for your info earlier versions of the Select only catered for 9 functions.

 

Picking a loco is slightly different, press Select then a number 0-59 for locos or 61-99 for points - when you get round to using the points accessory decoder, we can help there as well.

 

The Select will allow you to run your Class 40 TTS for now until you get the eLink sorted, just never connect both to the track at the same time or you will cause major grief to the point of magic smoke escaping.

 

You will have noticed the Select is not PC capable yet, hence the eLink (or Elite, which can run a Select connected as a Walkabout controller with or without a PC).

 

Getting the eLink to talk to a PC is just procedure, take it step by step as pointed out by Chris and his links to the external guide site. I know you don’t care for reading the dodgy manuals and yes these are as grim as most manuals, but the enhanced guides are correct and their guidance is necessary To get it to work.

 

I am one of those lucky ones- plug it in, let Windoze do its thing and it all worked for me, at each and every major change.

 

Good luck and keep the forum informed on how you get on.

Rob

[churchnilled]

Hi guys,

 

Thank you for the replies.

I have followed through on the instructions as listed above to get the Elink and RM talking to each other.

All the above worked to a degree and manged to get firmware version 1.07 onto the elink, great! then a reboot later, nothing!

Anyways long and short of it is the only way i could get this to work was to go into my BIOS (Basic Input Output System) although not stricly true as most motherboards these days use UEFI (Unified Extensible Firmware Interface) to which my motherboard is. 

I had to go to advanced settings and change the USB to legacy and there was another options that i changed but for life of me I forget the name so will boot that PC up shortly or tomorrow now to confirm the exact changes i made in the UEFI that resolved the issue of losing connectivity to RM and Elink after each reboot and post them here in case it helps anyone else. Maybe just coincident but after all the installing driver, uninstalling driver etc and following to the letter this was the only thing changed that worked was the UEFI change to the USB in advanced settings. 

 

Another thing was i used the USB port built onto the motherboard not the extension ones that plug into the motherboard etc, this can and does make a difference as AC has atested to. 

Bit of background on myself, my bag is business broadband/IT/Telecommunications but before changing to that arena i was a PC hardware software engineer so i have no problems getting down and dirty with the terminal (linux days)  or Powershell MS world.

 

Now that I have a functioning Elink/RM then next step is to follow the guide(s) for AC decoder but also need to amend the track layout slighty as i have a section with 4 set of points connected to each other which i read on these here forums can play havoc on the DCC so will need to insert some short tracks inbetween points I guess.

 

Cheers

 

Churchnilled

[churchnilled]

Hello again guys/Gals,

 

Booted PC but forgot to go into the UEFI to check on the changes I made but I will get round to it and post here.

 

Next up I have the AC-Decoder  R8247 connected to track that is isolated from main track.

Would anyone mind posting a link to good walkthrough for adding latest HornbyAC-Decoder and configuring points?.

I only have one set of points motors at present connected to the AC-Decoder which I understand needs to be on address 61 so all four ports are open then in block of 4 there after 61-64 / 65-68 etc?

I have 7 mounted point motors R8243 to connect up at some point so will also need another AC-Decoder?

I have a different point motor R8014 connected at moment before transferring them all to mounted.

Just want to suss out how to connect AC-Decoder and control one point before going full out with rest.

I am still having issues with the Class 40 going through points, any pointers that i should looking out for?

Sorry for the ramble when just looking for a decent link to a walkthrough

 

Churchy

[Chrissaf]

You only need to start your point numbering at 61 if you intend to use the Select controller. The Elite and eLink (RM) controllers do not have this restriction and can start at 001 if required. These will not clash with locos that also start at 001 because the DCC command packet structure defines whether the DCC packet is a loco or accessory DCC command. It is only the Hornby Select that imposes the 01-59 addresses for locos and 61-99 addresses for accessories. Note that address 60 using the Select should be left unused.

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It is far easier to configure the R8247 using RM.

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The 'full Monty' walk-through for using RM to set up the R8247 decoder can be found on this link in my previous posted reply.

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https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/programming-accessory-decoders/?p=1/

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Note that you can substitute the addresses I used in my examples with the address range that you want to use, but be aware that any address range that you use MUST be generated in multiples of four from number 1 as the base value. What I mean by that, is the decoder port numbers must go up sequentially in the following order.

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1-4

5-8

9-12

13-16

17-20

etc

etc

57-60

61-64

65-68

etc

etc

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[churchnilled]

Thank you kindly sir for clearing that up for me in relation to the number addressing difference between the Select and the Elite/Elink/RM Combo.

I have bookmarked your link and shall wade through that tomorrow, thank you.

Will update with results and UEFI changes that I keep meaning to post just on the off chance it aids someone else if they hit a brickwall after following all the excellent guides on here and AC's website etc.

Thank you 

 

churchy

[churchnilled]

OK a update.

All working as it should so I thought I would put my UEFI back to defaults to confirm if it was the changes I made to UEFI that resolved the issue with speaking to the Elink/RM.

Rebooted several times with UEFI set to defaults and had nothing but issues again.

Hit or miss, sometimes worked sometimes didnt and would never be on same port.

Now that I feel I have proved to myself the issue was with the UEFI default settings as when I changed back to my settings and rebooted several times not once did it have a issue with detecting the Elink and staying on the same port. 

 

I have included a screenshot of UEFI settings in Advanced so others who may come across the same intermittent issue can perhaps try checking these settings in their BIOS or UEFI? 

/media/tinymce_upload/b7fc129f511f9431ffa199d427c5b70e.jpg

Next I know I am not likely to get help here as it is a Train-Tech product but will ask away anyways. 

 

Brought a £10.00 two aspect LED signal needs building as kit form but once wired into the Accessory Decoder does RM then have control, that if it can even work with the Hornby Accessory Decoder? (R8247)

Churchy

[96RAF]

You will have to set the R8247 output to continuous not pulse. From RM its a simple case of ticking the box for the associated port(s) in the Acc Decoder programming dialogue.

Rob

[Chrissaf]

Two Aspect signals are compatible with the R8247, but note the following:

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The LED signal HAS to be 'Common Positive'. But since you have purchased a kit, you can make it 'common positive' as you build it.

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Secondly, the R8247 by default is a pulse output for points. The port you use needs to be re-configured for 'always on' when used with a signal. An easy thing to do with RailMaster, but remember the R8247 will need to be re-configured using your 'programming track' output on the eLink.

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PS - 'Common Positive' means that the positive sides of the two LEDs connect together and are wired to the 'Common' terminal of the R8247. The negative sides of the LEDs are wired individually and separately to the + & - terminals of the R8247. If the signal is red / green, then red LED to + and green LED to -

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IMPORTANT - the LEDs will need current limiting resistor(s). Usually a single resistor in the common leg between the signal and the R8247. But if you find the LEDs have different brightnesses, then use a pair of resistors (one per colour) in the negative legs instead. Then the resistor values can be customised to match the brightness.

 

[Fishmanoz]

Just going back to the BIOS/UEFI issue, this sounds like it could be an increasingly common problem as time goes on given legacy provisions need to be enabled to solve it.

 

Churchy, can I ask you to report this to HRMS using the email facility in the RM Help window and see what they have to say. 

 

And where is AC to comment when we need him?

[Augustus Caesar]

I'm right here Fishy. Been in and out of the forum while busy so contributed but not in a big way and missed the change to talk about UEFI and BIOS on this thread.

 

Anyway... not everyone will know what this is all about so here's a brief run down (well, fairly brief):

 

There are huge differences between BIOS and UEFI and these can be found listed all over the net.

The main difference is speed between switching on a system and having Windows ready very quickly. It was introduced with Windows 7 and works exceptionally well with newer boards and Windows 10.

While BIOS enabled booting systems and installing O/S's easy it was obvious that it was getting too slow and sluggish for the latest O/S's... thus UEFI and faster boots and installations of heavy duty Windows versions.

Security also plays a part in the latest UEFI partitions and can act as a further defence on hackers attempting to get into your systems easily.

Legacy USB settings should always be enabled on these systems so backward compatibility can be utilised at all times by the O/S. Some motherboards do have issues and I am afraid Asrock aren't the best in my own humble opinion. They're a cheaper board, with all due respect, with many useful features but for the more tech minded they don't have the flexibility of other boards, like ASUS for example, in terms of settings that can be changed to suit the user.

Having said that one shouldn't be experiencing USB trouble unless the settings are not correct in UEFI anyway. It also should be noted that when installing Windows 10 using UEFI it is best at all times to have legacy USB enabled BEFORE installing. Changing this after the fact sometimes doesn't work as it should. Maybe this is where your problem lies.

I can't see your settings on the board so can't go too deeply with what you should set or not. If you know the board model number I can check the settings via its own manual and can maybe help from there.

 

One other to keep in mind here is that UEFI can occasionally have issues with USB 2 or 2.1 hardware being plugged into USB 3 ports. They are not picked up most times so is this what you are experiencing? This could be down to a couple of things... one which I outline below:

 

I have said this before and will repeat myself here. USB devices can be wired in the correct manner but the cable used to connect them to a different form (i.e. motherboard on a laptop/PC) can be wired in more ways than one.

Some of the 'pins' are not used in some cables and this causes problems where they are required in different hardware scenarios. These cables are usually the cheaper ones from the far east. However, they are seen in packages where they supplied with the hardware. Some also have the 'pins' wired incorrectly. I've had a few of these when asking clients to drop them off for testing and then splitting them open (with client consent of course).

 

From the picture above from the Asrock board I can only see that legacy USB is set to enabled. If the OP can supply an opened up shot of that setting to show what has been set inside (i.e. USB 2.1) that may help a little with a diagnosis.

A bit of research around the net will confirm what I say but in individual cases things can't be explained easily as setups amongst each PC or laptop are different.

 

Let us know what you have and we can maybe go further.

** If you can't see the model of the motherboard download CPU-Z from https://www.cpuid.com

This gives make and type of motherboard, processor, memory and more and is absolutely free and contains no software you don't want.

[churchnilled]

Hi guys,

 

I think some thing was lost in trasnlation so to speak.

My UEFI did not have USB legacy enabled by default but once enabled all my issues where resolved.

I was just posting the screenshot of what I changed in advanced settings of the UEFI in case others had theirs defaulted to disabled rather than enabled as mine was and changing from USB legacy disabled to enabled  resolved all issues I was having.

Changing track once more and back to the Train-Tech self build two aspect signal leds.

The wiring diagram supplied was to connect the 1k resistor to the negative leg - (or common as listed on wiring diagram) then red to + and green to - . I tested this on a 9v battery with resistor connected to negative and then green to + which resulted in green led then tried red to + which results in red led.

The way you have advised to wire is two +'s as common and then 2 -'s to + and - and reverse if colours not correct.

The wiring diagram I have only shows 2 +'s and one - not the other way around so if I wire it into decoder as is with black - going to common and red to + and green to - that wont work?

Section 3 http://ccgi.dcpmicro.plus.com/traintech/pdf_manuals/sk2_manual.pdf

Cheers by the way to everyone who has commented with all your useful advice.

Churchy

[Chrissaf]

The wiring diagram supplied was to connect the 1k resistor to the negative leg - (or common as listed on wiring diagram) then red to + and green to - . I tested this on a 9v battery with resistor connected to negative and then green to + which resulted in green led then tried red to + which results in red led.

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That was the very reason that I specifically commented on the R8247 needing common positive signals. Many LED signal brands standardise on common negative (as your Train Tech signal documentation indicates). I am led to believe that Train-Tech signals are 'common negative' to perhaps force one to buy their common negative signal decoders.

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If you want to use these signals with the R8247 you will have to modify your construction (i.e ignore the official TT instructions) and make them as 'common positive'. If that is not possible due to the way that the signal kit is put together, then see the conversion circuit documented below:

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Just as an aside, I have responded to forum members requests in the past where they have purchased ready made signals that were 'common negative' and they have been asking how they could use them with their 'common positive' decoders. As one of the electronics guys on this forum, I published a conversion circuit they could build to do the conversion........copy pasted below:

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/media/tinymce_upload/c57bfc6cf1a95e8447abb0f743d3090b.jpg

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Although the circuit above will convert a 'common negative (cathode)' signal to operate with a 'common positive' decoder like the R8247. It is far better and cheaper to build the signal as a 'common positive' signal in the first place, if that option is available - see further comment below.

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I see from the link to the constructional details you provided that the Train-Tech LEDs are already fitted on a sub-board assembly. If your skills are up to it, you could unsolder the LEDs from the circuit board and reverse them both 180° so that the positives connect to the common PCB track. If you can't do that, then the only options open to you is to buy the matching Train-Tech signal decoders (common negative) to run them from, or build my simple conversion circuit shown above. Or sell the Train-Tech signal kits on to someone else and replace them with kits that are capable of being built as 'Common Positive', Eckon for example - see link at bottom of page.

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EDIT: Further constructional details for my convertor are added below:

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/media/tinymce_upload/93e24408d34bf4e54b4dd7b6fbf6e60a.jpg

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/media/tinymce_upload/f4bfae1168f6d2506275206f47107e32.jpg

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/media/tinymce_upload/6e79a1d234c62be08709adda0f459c24.jpg

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PS - Eckon signal kits allow the kit builder to choose, as part of the construction process, whether to build them as 'Common Negative' or 'Common Positive'.

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[churchnilled]

I forgot to mention Fishmanoz that I can email RM from within RM but as enabling resolved the issue there is nothing for them to do unless you meant to advise them of how issue and how issue was resolved?

Chris and AC you guys really do incredible well written replies with great explanations not that I need it on the BIOS/UEFI front but always good to see others sharing their in-depth knowledge. 

Chris my solder skills and electrical knowledge are pretty poor but I have been practising my soldering skills and trying different solders and think I am finally getting to grips with soldering as managed to solder wires and resistor to that tiny board with out burning through anything or making a right pigs ear of it.

Since getting back into model railways I am brushing up on soldering, electrical circuits, modelling techniques as when I enjoyed model railways as a child it was my father who did all that grafting whilst us kids sat back enjoyed the driving of the trains. 

To that end before you made that post Chris with your wiring diagrams I had just brought a breadboard and several combos of wires components etc to gets to gripes with wiring required for my eventual plans to reach fruition.

I did ponder your suggestion about desoldering the LED's rotate 180 and resolder but I really do not feel confident enough yet with my soldering skills to tackle something that intricate, but with practice hopefully I will get there.

Having looked at your plans to convert a common negative to common positive I might give that a go.

Not sure why I got so fixated on the Train-Tech signal lights when there are others like you listed, Eckon.

The two Hornby R406's I have just look so out of place due to their size. They work great in RM, I have not linked to points yet but have the 'How to' bookmarked to give that a whizz at some point although I am seriously thinking of removing the Hornby signals and investing my money else where on that front although I do like to keep to one brand so would have sooner stayed with Hornby for my signal lights but they just do not cut the mustard in terms of size, cost and flexibility of DCC.  

My next search of these here forums is on LED lighting for scenery, got the LED's plumbed in to several buildings for testing colours and getting right ambience I am looking for. What I am going to be searching for is control and power of scenery lighting.

Signals and locos are sorted as they are controlled from RM. I do run the Elink on a 4amp but still I think scenery lighting has to be better with its own supply I would have thought but I shall find that out after searching some good threads out on scenery lighting 

Anyone keep up with the shares prices? Not a good day for Hornby but alas they did know it was coming to this.  I hope the company can be turned around especially so after all it's acquisitions over the years.

Still going to pre-order this little beauty R6888TTS and a few other bits and bobs especially that conrod spanner R913 as I have a annoying loco of my grandsons, a Thomas loco and one nut is forever coming off and it drives me nuts trying to find the little ickle tiny weenie (polka dot bikini, anyone?) bitsy nut.

Again I have rambled on, this getting old malarky is to blame I say. 

 

Night night world.

 

Churchy. 

[Augustus Caesar]

@churchnilled

 

From the picture I thought there was a subset of options under the USB legacy area on your board and that may have been where any problem could have been sorted. Obviously that board only has an on-off capability with legacy USB as an option.

As there aren't any subsets and all is working fine that's great. I wasn't entirely sure when the screenshot was taken so assumed it was before you solved the issue. That's probably where any misunderstanding may have been apparent.

Anyway, it doesn't really matter now if all is working as said.

 

Re your words expressing my own and Chris's explanations of how things work I do appreciate that of course as I am sure Chris will too. We are here to help of course.

 

The piece I wrote re UEFI and BIOS could help others anyway so all is not lost re that work. It's amazing how many folk love this stuff while, at the same time, it bamboozles others. Everyone has their level of knowledge and an idea of what they want to learn and what they don't so the trick, as you will be aware anyway, is knowing what to write and what not to.

 

Glad it is all working now so enjoy. 😎

 

[Fishmanoz]

Churchill, following AC’s post, no need to email HRMS. I was thinking it may be a more general problem but AC has put that to bed. Makes sense legacy should be enabled by default but if it’s not with some cheap boards, then it’s sure to come up again at some stage. 

[96RAF]

For anyone wondering if they have a BIOS or UEFI...

 

1.    Start your PC.

2.    Go to Start > Computer > C Drive.

3.    Navigate to C:WindowsPanthersetupact.log .

4.    Open setupact.log  using Notepad or similar text editor. You may have to adjust your security permissions to open this if Win 10 has been playing silly beggars during recent updates.

5.    Search for this string: Callback_BootEnvironmentDetect: Detected boot environment: .... and the line found will tell you what you have.

Rob

[Augustus Caesar]

Well noted RAF...

 

In addition to that though is this little item if a file is missing and one is unable to obtain this info in Win 8 or 8.1:

 

"In Windows 8 and Windows 8.1, if the setupact.log file is missing in the Panther folder, you can check the Boot Environment using the following steps:

1. Press Win + R > type msinfo32 and press Enter.

2. Look for the BIOS Mode entry.

3. If the value listed is Legacy, then the Boot Environment is BIOS, otherwise the respective Boot Environment will be listed"

 

Quite the techie stuff here but one or two will be interested to note this little lot no doubt.