Gwdriver16 Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 Hi, new to forum. I've just been installing tts decoders to Bachmann 37 and 47. Straight out of the box, running was very very jerky, totally unusable. After doing some searching on intrrnet, found this to be common and people seemed to be sending decoders back for replacment.After further searching, found two problems, one was an early compatability issue with some makes of controllers, the other was cv settings. Since my controller is Hornby Elite, not the first issue, so on to the CV settings.It was quite straight forward to find which CVs were responsible, but other than 'adjust these CVs', not much actual help in where to start and what settings to use. After alot of research, I've come up with a method which seems to work well, and both of my locos now move off at a slow creep with the controller hardly on (The display on the elite shows 1faint bar).This is whst I did:First assign an address to the decoder. Next set CVs 3 & 4 to 0. These are acceleration and deceleration, we will reset these later. Next set bemf CV10 to 100. Set CV 150 to 1, linear speed curve. Set start V to 5. Now set CV 153 to 0 and 154 to 1. Read the CVs back and write them down. This is your starting point.The next stage I did on the main track using 'Operate' programming mode. This allows changing CVs on the main track and then trying the loco straight away.Now you just change CV153. If too low or high a number is chosen, you will get very jerky movement. I started with a value of 40, better but still a bit jerky. Next increased by 10 until I got pretty smooth running.then kept increasing by 10 until running started getting jerky again. Then I decressed the value in steps of 5. My class 47 ended up on a value of 70 and my 37 has a value of 85.Now the loco is moving smoothly with very little movement of the speed control dial.The final part is to reset the acceleration and deceleration CVs. The higher the value you put in these, the longer it takes to reach set speed and to stop from a set speed. According to the Elite manual, each increase in value of 1, equates to 1 second in time. These settings will be of personal choice, the higher the value, the more difficult it will be to control the loco, as it will have a greater delay in stopping. As I drive real trains, I find this quite normal (HST takes over a mile to stop from 125mph) and I therefore set my deceleration quite high (CV4 to 40 on the class 37 and 50 on my class 47! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwdriver16 Posted August 9, 2018 Author Share Posted August 9, 2018 Also, just to add, I only have 1 piece of flexi track as my test bed, so the values for CVs 3&4 I'll probably change once I start using these locos on a proper layout where I can get upto line speed and then see how far it takes to stop.Hope this helps.Cheers, Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobOO Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 I thought that was very informative thanks. Can't wait to get my Elite back from Hornby and see if my problems have been sorted or not. Maybe then I can get round to doing some CV settings of my own.Cheers,Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 Which update is your Elite loaded with?If you hunt around in this thread group, you will find lots of advice on how to persuade the tts decoder to behave. They aren't the smoothest of behavers but what do you expect for £20 or so, when a top-flight decoder is £100 plus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 @Gwdriver16...........I have to say I find your posts concerning setting up the TTS decoders extremely complicated.........I also use the Elite & have several TTS decoders (both steam & diesel) and I have only had to change CV150 to 1 to achieve smooth running........I am concerned that newbies to DCC and TTS could be put off by your apparent difficulties in just getting the locos to run acceptably.........maybe I've just been lucky but I have not found it necessary to fiddle on with other CVs........ 😀.........HB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 @Gwdriver...........having said that, your post was quite informative and would benefit those that want to explore the full capabilities of the TTS decoder especially in trying to match the acceleration and deceleration as realistically as possible (assuming you have enough length of track)............HB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 Looks like a logical approach Rich. If I could make a couple of points: - There is a previous post that suggests what values and direction to go with CVs 153 and 154 (not just change them) but you’ve clearly found how for yourself. - I can understand why you’ve put CVs 3 and 4 to zero for a start ,but I would then have gone back to default minimum of 15 before going further. I’m assuming you’d ignored sound startup synchronization while you had them at zero? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwdriver16 Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Hi everyone, thanks for your replies. I can only make 2 posts every 24 hours at the mo because I'm new on here.Fishmanoz, sorry, typo error, I did start at default 15 when re-entering CVs 3&4, then increased in steps of 5. My explanation looks more complex than it is to do. You just set the mentioned CVs to the settings I've suggested, then you just change CV153 up and down until you get super smooth creep. (I've got this as good as a SWD ESU chip I have fitted in another loco). CVs 3&4 can then just be put back to default 15 or you can have fun playing around with them. The reason for switching acceleration/deceleration off (CVs 3&4 to zero), is that this allows you to see exactly when the loco starts to creep because there is no delay to acceleration. CV4 just stops the loco flying off the end of my short test track when testing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwdriver16 Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Just to add, I did this setting up without sounds on. If the sound sync is off when I get a good run with it, I'll just put CV 3&4 back to default 15, the smooth creep is more important than long braking distance. I tend to prefer manual notching up and down anyway, and engine revs and loco speed don't match on the real thing. On HSTs for instance, the powercar that you have supplying train supply, revs in notch 2 even at a stand, it never reverts to idle☺Cheers, Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 It has been pointed out previously that mismatched sound with a diesel isn't so obvious, compared with a steam outline which can be giving 1 or 30 chuff per wheel rev! That is glaringly wrong! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwdriver16 Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Fair point, I haven't done a steam loco with sound yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwdriver16 Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 Hi everyone,I've put a couple of videos on u tube to show the smooth running I achieved. Same user name as on here. Look for smooth running Bachmann class 37 with Hornby tts sound decoder. Hope its of use. Can't work out how to link. Using tablet and the link button on here stays grey. Sorry the video is a bit grainy, that ws done on my tablet also. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 Open the you-tube vid, copy and paste the URL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 Can't work out how to link. Using tablet and the link button on here stays grey..How it should work..Paste the URL text into your post. Then drag the cursor over the text to highlight it. The greyed out tool button should then turn live and clickable. Click the tool icon and a dialogue box opens. Paste your URL text again into the top panel in the dialogue box. Then click the 'Insert' button..However, the above has been reported before not to work for some users on tablets for some reason.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwdriver16 Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 see if this works, cheers, Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwdriver16 Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 Cheers Chrissaf,to get a link to copy and paste, you have to go to youtube directly by inserting the www address in address bar. If you go to youtube using the app on tablet, there is no Url address displayed for you to copy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwdriver16 Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 Cheers Chrissaf,to get a link to copy and paste, you have to go to youtube directly by inserting the www address in address bar. If you go to youtube using the app on tablet, there is no Url address displayed for you to copy!Just to add, this is the link to a second video. Very low quality, sorry, but filmed on my tablet which is not very good, holding it in one hand whilst operating Hornby Elite with the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 If you go to YouTube using the app on tablet, there is no URL address displayed for you to copy!.Rich,If you do the equivalent of a 'right click' with the cursor WITHIN the YouTube video frame. You should get a pop-up giving you a "Copy video URL" option. This would copy the Hyperlink (URL - Uniform Resource Locator) onto your clipboard to be pasted in your forum post window../media/tinymce_upload/240509d6190eec9df21ebc0e7385e834.jpg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwdriver16 Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 Thanks for that Chrissaf. I've now discovered that with the app version of u tube, there is a curved arrow in the top corner to share video. If you click on that, aswell as all the share options (twit, fbook etc) there is also a 'copy link' icon. Click that and then paste on here and then do as you said. Once again, thanks for that, very useful.Cheers, Rich. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobOO Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Gwdriver16 you sir are a star! A but a 37 TTS chip in my oldest Bachmann 37 (8pin) yesterday and it was awful low end, really judgering. Did the CV 150 to 1 as I'd already seen and I'd say it was better but in no way workable. Followed your instructions to the letter this evning and it runs brilliantly now. Actually ran it alongside another 37 I have with ESU SWD chip to see how they compare. Ok not in the same league when it comes to horns, brake and flange squeel, but the price is fantastic.What I do like about the Hornby chip is the basic engine and thrash. Mixed in with the rest of my much more expensive sound chips these Hornby ones are holding their own. Done one 37 (of 6), one 50 (of 4) and all the HSTs now (3). The Hornby ones have freed up enough chips to reblow the SWD ones to finish the rest of my fleet off I reckon. Thnk you very much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gwdriver16 Posted June 21, 2020 Author Share Posted June 21, 2020 Thanks Rob00,Glad it helped, I've found them to be great when adjusted correctly. I got alot of my info from Greg at Fishplatefilms on YouTube, he does alot of brilliant instructional videos. He's done alot on train detection, signalling and setting out track work. Great channel. He did one on adjusting tsunami chips, I took his ideas, found the cv's on my TTS chips as well as I could and had a play around. Was very pleased with the results. As you said, before the adjustments, it was so jerky, it was unusable. Happy it helped,Cheers Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colesal Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 I took a note of your CV values and put them into my Bachmann Class 37 with TTS decoder. It now runs nice and smooth instead of the jerky running I had before. Thanks for putting this post on about CV's codes and TTS decoder. 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hipwell Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 Just came across this thread, and wow, my tts equipped HST running a CD ROM motor now starts and stops so smoothly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flashbang Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 A nice simple set of instructions Gwrdriver. Well done!smileHope the signalling on the rail railway keeps you fully informed of when to apply the brakes or accelerate and you're not inputting CV changes - Ha ha. sunglasses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted September 29, 2021 Share Posted September 29, 2021 There’s also a later topic on here now that tells you why this works and includes the methodology to follow. Someone may give you a link to it. Also, don’t forget you must reset CVs 3 and 4 to at least 15 (see TTS leaflets) or your sound timing will not synch correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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