The son of Triangman Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 The S.5065 plastic wheel bushes can get worn on the wheels and if worn out can cause a wheel to momentarily to make contact with the cast chassis causing a short circuit. /media/tinymce_upload/0e78c2ea833429828aa7488479c5ed57.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 In the Early R.152 you would need to remove the X.47 capacitor/supressor assembly, the S.1011 that holds the X.47 in place can just be put back into the chassis. /media/tinymce_upload/17a08ec8da1c80373e2d8b6612f87db6.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 The Red decoder wire goes to the Brown wire from the pickup plate. Make sure the insulation plate S.5095 is in place if you are doing an early R.152. /media/tinymce_upload/e1ceb3b12f4db086d3c0c7c111213e0b.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 Black decoder wire attaches to the solder tag formerly attached to X.47. This is the negative supply to the decoder. You can see the Red decoder wire already attached, heatshrink the Red/Brown wire join./media/tinymce_upload/a14779d8fd1fc05188c8ff4bd559c6fd.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 You will need two of these./media/tinymce_upload/0fa4ae67d73e6783bbdc8d0e2e8f2061.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 The Orange Decoder wire is soldered to one of the X.298 clips./media/tinymce_upload/d12fd1afc0d4fac78633c5714f2151aa.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 The Grey motor control decoder wire solders to the other X.298 clip./media/tinymce_upload/e9d8e0968722ea7d944c811e2eebbcfc.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 The X.298 Brush clip with the orange decoder wire attached goes in front of the X.67 brush in the brush holder (Brush Diaphragm)on the side of the motor shown. /media/tinymce_upload/d4395fb73939cc0919e3e606db27b1f2.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 The same process for the grey wire and X.298 clip. The diagram shows both X.298 clips in position. Note both sides of the brush spring are insulated back to the screw. /media/tinymce_upload/a8c4bc86576db66ac9574a951cbbae71.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 You can see the orange wire X.298 feed clip in this picture, note the orange wire 0.2/7 insulation on the brush spring. the Grey wire X.298 feed clip is positioned the same on the other side of the motor. That side of the spring is also insulated this time with Grey wire insulation. /media/tinymce_upload/0290bb7bb1eeb51af2ba9b8829739853.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 A simple diagram of the arrangement, I am too tired to do a proper electronics diagram, plus I want to keep this as simple as possible for everyone to follow./media/tinymce_upload/c943461cd56cc215d01ea334d4e5f99a.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SammySquirrel Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 Many thanks for all your help I will keep trying.I think latest problem is that the two start worm is not connecting to the ratchet drive wheel or alternatively it is jamming. will persevere until I solve thisproblem. Then I think Railmaster will be able to read CV's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 Glad to be able to help. Try the loco with the coupling rods off, being careful to keep the correct rod for the correct side of the loco. If the driven wheelset moves ok with the rods off then you may well have a quartering issue, if not then it's a gearing issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SammySquirrel Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 Hi folks!!!Latest situationI have serviced one XO3 and X04 motors and I think I have found out why I cannor convert them to DCC is because the worm in each oif motors is not linking properly with the worm gearon the chassis , they are locking tight and not allowiing the wheels to rotate.what have I done wrong. the motors are definitely running wellSammy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 That mechanical issue has of course nothing to do with DCC conversion. If the drive train has a problem, it will be the same problem whether DC or DCC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 I agree, sounds like a worn drive gear or motor with the wrong worm, As mentioned in my guidance, all locos should be in good working order and good clean condition before conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 You say you have serviced both an X03 and an X04 motor (i.e. one with a 'coarse' black plastic worm and one with a 'fine' brass worm. The black plastic worm on the X03 motor meshes with a grey plastic worm wheel on the drive axle whereas the brass worm on the X04 motor meshes with a brass or black plastic worm wheel. Have you switched the motors round by mistake so a coarse worm is trying to mesh with a fine worm wheel, or vice-versa?GS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SammySquirrel Posted September 8, 2018 Author Share Posted September 8, 2018 Well I have finally thrown in the towel on this projectI bought another X04 chassis which ran perfectly on DC I serviced it and triedanother convertion without success. I followed all instruction to the letter given to me by the forumI used a heavier decoder which Railmaster could not find I tried another three decoders which I knew were okbut still could not get Railmaster to recognise. So I am given up and going off for a holiday.Manny thanks to all forum friends for advice and encouragement. I have four shunter diesel wrecks whichlook.like they will be going on ebay as scrapManny thanks to allSammy Squirrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Most unusual, the conversion has worked for others here quite successfully. Is Railmaster giving trouble? Have you tried using a normal DCC controller? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Any pics Sammy of your conversion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SammySquirrel Posted September 24, 2018 Author Share Posted September 24, 2018 Got back from holiday and thought nI would have another go at this convertion.I think that the problem is (but I could be wrong) that after servicing the X04 motor, I cannot getthe worm to mesh with the worm gear and therefore there is a slight space between the motor and the chassis which does not let the the driving wheels to power up.It would be great if anyone in the Airdrie/Coatbridge area who knows how to get round this could contact me SammySquire[[ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott40k Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 Hello Everyone,I just wanted to check here on a thread that deals with this Locomotive/motor directly should I be getting a short over the carbon brushes when they touch the commutator? (there is no short if I lift the brush off the commutator while keeping it all connected). I'm measuring the short on the connectivity test (that beeps) on a multimeter. Also, to note this loco runs perfectly in DC :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 The short you are seeing/hearing is the low resistance of the armature coils. If you put the meter across brush to brush and turn the motor slowly by hand you will see the resistance of each pole winding. These should be the same ohms value plus / minus a tad. You should be measuring from each brush to its associated wheel pickup. This is the path you must interupt to install a decoder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott40k Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 I thought it might be something like that, is there a recommended decoder for this kind of motor please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 The motor coils have such a low DC resistance, that using a 'continuity beep' type tester will give a false indication. You really need to be using a meter that will give a definitive resistance value reading in ohms. Expect to see a value in the region of 30 to 120 ohms..These vintage type motors draw a lot of current. Most Hornby decoders are limited to 0.5 amps for the motor, with a peak of 1 amp (very brief peak). You really need a decoder with a proper 1 amp continuous motor current rating. This realistically means looking at an alternative brand of decoder from Hornby..Note that the Hornby Sapphire decoder had the 1 amp rating, but that decoder is now obsolete and not available for new supply from Hornby (some may still exist in retailer stock). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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