Railmaster > Elite > older cadbury castle + hornby decoder

[graham_lerwilll]

Hi,

I am just trying to get a basic functioning layout - nothing fancy

I am running railmaster on a 64 bit windows 10 laptop - on installing from CD - almost nothing worked - then uninstalled and reinstalled as per the directions on the ralmaster website in the sticky topic https://octaviancs.com/railmaster/rm.php?id=home 

• setup file from above website v1.69
• malwarebytes uninstalled
• trusteer rapport uninstalled
• mcafee livesave and web advisor uninstalled
• windows defender enabled and railmaster set to 'allow'
• windows device manager - compatibility on com port 4 set to windows 8 and runas administrator - baud rate increased to 115200 as reccomended by railmaster pdf - driver is from windows update
• port settings in railmaster are set to match above com 4 etc

briefly saw 'internet active' and managed to activate software :-) icon is still green but states inactive

Elite showed updating firmware and then said it was unsure whether it had updated :-( ? icon is green but states inactive

Loco icon is shown as greyed out - i soldered a hornby 4 function controller to the motor in accordance with instructions - remove soldered electronic components - solder red, black, orange, grey to the 4 points and isolate remainder of wires.  assumption is that this is default decoder 3.

I've read the 149 pages of the railmaster guide (nice sense of humour by the authors - only a couple of hours...), or at least the parts that might help me get things working.

Ive attached the elite to the track by the prog connections and tried to read some info using the hornby accessory decoder - I dont understand the results....

Ive added a loco from the list 'caerphilly castle' and tried to set decoder to 3.

My eventual wants are small

• An outside oval running through a tunnel
• A hornby turntable (motorised)
• 5 or 6 moints/signals
• More capable DCC engines in the future
• It to just work!

I would welcome your advice/suggestions.

[RDS]

Hi Graham and welcome to the Forum.

The sticky topic you have referenced above is a very well tried and tested method but it is essential to follow it word for word.

 

I am puzzled by your 'updating Elite' comment as updating an Elite is a separate task completely from running through RailMaster.  (I am assuming that you do mean Elite and not e-link).

 

What I would do in your position is to connect your Elite to the track using the 'Track' connection' and call up Loco 3, just to prove that your Loco and Elite are working correctly.  

 

If your post should refer to e-link, then hopefully, one of the other Moderators will be along soon to take you though the detailed steps.  It appears that you have been a Forum member since April 2013, so you may not be limited to the 2 posts in 24 hours, allowed by new members.  Good Luck.

 

[Chrissaf]

Graham, you have to be very careful to use correct product names, else we will go off in the wrong direction. I have read your post several times and although you keep on stating 'Elite'. I believe you have an eLink. The Elite is Silver / Black with two knobs, several buttons and a LCD display. The eLink is a plain black box with no buttons, knobs or display.

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The two things that convince me you have an eLink is that firstly you say that RM auto-detected the controller and started to upgrade its firmware. This ONLY happens with an eLink. The Elite firmware is updated manually by the user outside of the RM application. You also stated the Baud rate as 115200. Again this Baud rate is ONLY used by the eLink. The Elite uses a 19,200 Baud rate.

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Given that already you have made some comments that are misleading i.e Elite or eLink is not clear. Then we have to assume that all you have done so far may not be correct. Thus it will be necessary to lead you through the whole process one step at a time. RailMaster is not particularly 'plug n play' and needs an awful lot of setting up and configuration to get to the stage of operating a DCC loco.

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To start with look at the two images below. Which of these two images represent your driver entry in Windows 10 Device Manager.

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Image 1

/media/tinymce_upload/2edc8d3eb92f85becede2f10df2aff2d.jpg

or Image 2

/media/tinymce_upload/65f8992f8ca553bdbae49a93446a604b.jpg

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If your Windows Device Manager shows Image 1 (the red eclipse), then the driver is not yet installed correctly. Tell us which image more closely represents your Device Manager display and await further instruction.

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PS - Also confirm exactly what controller interface you are using Elite or eLink (note that the driver is the same for both).

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TIP: I write long posts. If you intend to write a reply, it would be appreciated if you didn't use the 'White Arrow in Blue Box' button. This is not a 'Reply to this post button. It is best to write any reply you want to make in the 'Reply Text Box' at the very bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

 

Particularly as my reply includes an image. If you use the blue button, any reply you write will be held back for image approval. Even though it is already a previously published image.

 

[graham_lerwilll]

RDS and Chrissaf,

sorry e-link not elite...... apologies for my mistake

'COM 4 Image' - sorry I am replying to both answers

loco not proved working yet

thank you for a quick reply - I was not expecting until the new year

 

rgds

 

Graham

[Chrissaf]

With reference the next image.

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In the 'System Settings' screen. Ensure the following entries are present.

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• Controller B = none
• Controller A = Hornby eLink and IS NOT highlighted in a pinky colour. If it is highlighted in pink then this denotes that RM cannot see it on the end of the USB lead.
• DCC Controller port = Com4 (as you stated in first post above)
• Baud Rate: 115200
• Data Bits = 8
• Parity = none
• Stop Bit = 1

At this stage, just leave the other settings as shown below or whatever you currently have set. They come into play later and are not important at this stage.

/media/tinymce_upload/cc297c04ccc1b460620c01bb3b66b8b7.jpg

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OK now to check your RailMaster INI file settings.

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You open the .INI file editor by clicking the bluish COG icon in the RM 'Help Screen' [Top row navigation icons in RailMaster]. Follow on screen prompts to open the editor. Since you are using Win10 then ensure that these two lines are at the very bottom of the file as the last two entries:

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Alternative comms=1

Check controller=1

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Type them in if missing, or delete them if existing higher up the file and retype them at the end of the file, then save the changes, close and re-open RM to ensure the changes take effect. It is important to retype them at the bottom of the file and save the edit.

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With the above changes confirmed, does RailMaster open and recognise the eLink without giving any error messages?

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Confirm the above and await further instruction.

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EDIT: Further to the above. It is logical to assume that since you have been a forum member since 2013 but are only now posting about DCC. Then it is likely that up till now you have been running a DC Analogue layout [particularly as your initial post mentions DIY converting a DC loco to DCC].

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Now on the basis that this assumption is correct. It is very important that any and all Hornby power tracks and/or power clips are DCC versions. DC Analogue R8206 and R602 power track / clip products contain a suppression capacitor inside them. These capacitors must be removed for correct DCC working. This also includes the clips used in the Hornby R8201 Link Wires if your layout is using them. The image below gives guidance on the capacitor removal.

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/media/tinymce_upload/c5c47a240cb5bab0dc26d002af76aebf.jpg

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Please confirm that all power track / clips do not have any capacitors in them.

[Chrissaf]

Whilst I await your reply to last nights post above. Here is something else to consider and try.

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Since you are taking a 'big bang' approach to DCC. What I mean by that is not only are you setting up a new DCC control system you are also undertaking a DIY conversion of a DC loco to DCC at the same time in one 'big go'.

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Then when it doesn't work, it is hard to be sure where the issue lies. Does it lie in the DCC controller setting up part of the task, or has the DIY conversion of the DC loco to DCC been done correctly.

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My previous replies have been starting from the basics and been focusing on the DCC controller side. But this will all come to nowt if the DIY conversion of your loco from DC to DCC is not functional.

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However, A DCC decoder straight from the factory and out of the packaging is configured to support DC Operation. Thus if you have got the basic wiring of your DIY conversion correct. You should find that your DCC converted loco will run exactly as before on a DC Analogue controlled track. This does not guarantee that the loco will correctly run under DCC control. But one thing is for sure, if after conversion it won't still run on DC then it will never run on DCC. There is a caveat to this, and that it assumes that CV29 has not been altered by any means to disable the DC Operation function, but this should not be the case for a brand new previously unused DCC decoder.

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So the question is, does your DIY converted loco still run on DC Analogue control as before?

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If it doesn't then you will need a DCC fitted loco that does, before you can use it to test your RailMaster / eLink system set-up & configurations.

[graham_lerwilll]

Chris,

           apologies for delay in replying - I have been away from home for a couple of days.    I'll try to reply in order.

• I take your points about analogue and DCC and previous posts from some years ago - I do not have an analogue layout to test anything on.  I will buy something like a DCC small engine (0-6-0 tank engine) to eliminate problems with my home conversion.
• I think problems exist before getting to the engine.

          - I have the USB port showing COM 4/the settings shown in your image for Windows Device Manager

          - I have the same settings in Railmaster for Controller A (E-Link), but it is PINK (as are all of the choices)

          - I assume this means cannot communicate with E-Link, but do not know how to fix this

          - I will check the ini file afer work today, and let you know results

• Separately, the track connector was sold by a model shop for DCC, but I can check for capacitor if reqd

[Chrissaf]

......but it is PINK.....

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Yes the pink colour denotes a communication error with the eLink on Com4. Until this is resolved, it will never work. There is a very high probability that the .INI file fix I have recommended will correct this issue. Assuming of course that the eLink itself is not firmware corrupted or faulty.....see additional comments further below.

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I do not have an analogue layout to test anything on.

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You can test your DIY DCC fitted loco with a 9 volt battery. Just touch the battery connectors directly across the wheels that have pickups on them. If the wheels spin, then your DCC conversion is less likely to be an issue.

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.....but I can check for capacitor if reqd.

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Yes please do......you just need to eliminate all potential problem possibilities.

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Some additional things have just come to mind for you to check and comment on.

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1. RM / eLink is quite sensitive to PC USB hardware. For one thing it really doesn't work consistently well on all USB3.0 port hardware. It is far more reliable when used with a USB 2.0 PC port. In most cases (but not all) a USB 3.0 port on a PC can be identifed by the use of BLUE plastic parts indside the PC USB port connector. A USB 2.0 port usually has WHITE plastic parts. Are you using a USB 2.0 port for your eLink?
2. Equally, the eLink needs to be connected directly to the PC USB port and not go via any form of passive USB hub device. You might try using a different known working USB lead, just to eliminate your current lead from being faulty.
3. Some PC hardware products are known to have issues with eLink. Lenovo Laptops for example are regularly reported to have issues. What brand of PC are you using for RailMaster?
4. When the eLink is connected to the power supply, does the LED light up. Does it light up Green?
5. If you have access to a multi-meter can you measure the output of the eLink track connectors. Do you get an AC voltage in the 12.5 volt to 16.5 volt range, but typically nearer 15 volts?

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If the suggestions above result in no improvement with regard to turning the eLink status from 'PINK' to normal. Then you could try manually forcing the eLink update (since you originally said that the update ran but did not complete, its possible that the eLink firmware is now corrupted because it didn't complete correctly).

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To force the eLink firmware update.

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1. Have the eLink connected to the PC and powered up such that the driver loads and is shown in Windows Device Manager.
2. Do not run RailMaster.
3. Instead use Windows Explorer to navigate to the RailMaster program folder and look for a file called "eLinkNNN.exe" where NNN is the current firmware version. I believe that is currently 107. If more than one file is listed, then choose the one with the highest numerical number for NNN.
4. Right click the file and choose 'Run as administrator'.

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I don't have an eLink so I'm not sure as to advise you on what to see or expect to happen when running this file. I would assume that a small window would open displaying update progress, perhaps with a Com port selection option to choose. Or it might just run silently in the background.

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[graham_lerwilll]

Test of engine with 9v battery was a fail - tried across each pair of wheels  - awaiting arrival from hattons on 8 Jan of

Class 2721 0-6-0PT in GWR Green DCC Fitted - Pre-owned Hornby R3122X-PO01

The power connecting track has 2 green connectors like Hornby R8241 Digital Power Track DCC Accessory - not like the connector pictured above - it comes apart between the tracks, but seems glued near the green connectors - likely to break to take it apart.

Will report on ini file later

rgds

 

Graham

[graham_lerwilll]

Sorry for the piecemeal approach - the laptop is approx 2016 vintage, windows 10 64 bit. 2 usb 2.0 ports, 1 x 3.0 - apparently 3.0 has blue (instead of white or black) and 'SS' next to the usb symbol.  Confirmed that the configured port is NOT 3.0.  I'll have to get a spare usb cable with the 'squarish' end tomorrow.

HP 15-ba083sa 15.6" Laptop - Silver

[graham_lerwilll]

The 2 entries in the ini file were set to 0 and 'elite' was below it - file now reads

Tipper speed=80Tipper timer=86.4Turntable speed=40Turntable timer=23.56Points timer=0.75Conveyor speed=65TCP start port=30Check serial ports=1Show upgrade button=1Allow deactivate=1Use default curves=1Polling time=5Confirm delete=1Classic buttons=0Show point indicators=1Uncoupler time=5Detection Timeout=5Button bar vertical=0Throttle timer=5Handheld plan area=1,1,135,135Program tick sound=1PING time=60Reset eLink on start=1Enable mouse=0Warn static IP=1Load Hornby Locos=1Load Jouef Locos=1Load Rivarossi Locos=0Load Electrotren Locos=0Load Arnold Locos=0Load Bassett-Lowke Locos=0Point button arrows=1Spoken confirmation=0Controllers on top=1Double pulse=1Elite feedback=0Alternative Comms=1Check controller=1

[graham_lerwilll]

The e-link controller shows as active - version 1.07 on top right corner indicator in railmaster and under settings - the pink has gone away.  the light on controller is green.

unsurprisingly loco is still greyed out in railmaster and does not go

do these results mean i can take the usb cable as 'good'?

wait out on working dcc loco?

thanks for all your help so far

 

graham

[Chrissaf]

OK you might not think so but significant progress is being made.

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The .INI file is now looking good. Since you have now lost the pink highlight and controller icon (top right hand corner) shows "Active - version 1.07" and the LED on the controller is Green. Then that looks as if the .INI configuration issue I suggested was indeed the root cause of the eLink communications error.

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Since it is reporting version 1.07, then you probably don't need to do a forced eLink firmware upgrade. Your USB lead looks good too.

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Now to your comment about the 'Loco' icon being greyed out. Do you mean the one next to the controller icon in the top right hand corner - see yellow highlight in image below. If you do, then this icon being greyed out is totally 100% normal and to be expected. The icon represents the Hornby 'Loco Detection' control module that has not yet been released by Hornby. Although it is expected to be launched later this year. But to put that launch timescale expectation into perspective, it is a Hornby RailMaster enhancement that was promised about 3 to 5 years ago.

/media/tinymce_upload/43db67d2581b169fa552d010baf28475.JPG

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The only icons in the top right hand corner that need to be green are the "DCC Controller Connected" icon in the middle and optionally the "Internet Active" icon on the left. Although RM will function perfectly OK without an Internet connection being present. At this time, the "Loco Detection" icon on the right should be greyed out (this is normal).

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OK so far......I believe that your basic RM configuration at the 'System Level' is now good to go. The current issue is your loco. Since it failed the battery test and you do not currently have an alternative DCC fitted loco to test with. There isn't a lot more you can do at this time until you have a known good working DCC fitted loco to continue with.

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Whilst you await your DCC Fitted loco to arrive from Hatton's, what you could do is create your track plan in RM. In principle, you only need to do this if you intend to operate DCC controlled accessories such as points and signals. You do not need a track plan just to operate locos.

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Remember that the track plan is just a logical representation of your layout, you don't need to try and replicate the plan as a copy of the layouts physical installation state. The tracks on the track design do not even need to be contiguous. A track plan could be just all the points on the layout without ANY interconnecting track pieces joining them together. I cite as an example the London Underground Tube Map. It is an iconic map that gives all the information needed to travel on the Tube. It in no way tries to replicate the geographical routes of the tube lines through the London streets and suburbs.

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Creating a track plan is covered in the RM manual from page 77 onwards. If you haven't yet got any point motors or point Accessory Decoders. Then you don't need to add any 'point operating' button icons to the track plan. But when you do at some future point in time, I'll give you a tip for future reference.

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This TIP is documented in the manual but usually overlooked by newbies setting up for the first time and failing to follow this TIP guidance can create a non functional track plan for operating points.

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Once the basic point icon is placed on the track plan. You then have to add operating buttons if you are using a DCC Accessory Decoder to operate the electrical point motors. You add point operating button icons as follows:

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Use the left mouse button to click and drag a Red point operating button from the left hand side tool selection column. Drag the button to the point icon on the track plan that you want to associate this button with. Now position the mouse cursor (not the button icon) into the centre of the square containing the point icon and release the left mouse button. If you have done this correctly, you should see both Red & Green point operating buttons snap to the point in their correct locations. If you do not see this snapping action, then drag the button away and try positioning it again until you do see this snapping action. Once both the buttons have snapped to the point icon, you can then 'right click' one or other of the buttons to open the point configuration dialogue box. I can't tell you what would need to be done next, without knowing the brand and model of the Accessory Decoder you might intend to use and the type of point motors that will be installed. So this description is really for your reference in the future.

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Oh and just in case it is not obvious. Once you have created your track plan. You need to save it with a unique name that is meaningful to you. You write the name you want to give the plan in the blank white text pull down plan selection box in the bottom left hand side corner of the track designer screen. Then use the save button on the right hand side. If you modify one of the default plans for your own use and don't save it with a unique name of your own, it will be overwritten by the original Hornby plan the next time RM is updated and any edits you have made to it will be lost.

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Again, whilst you await your Hatton's delivery, you might want to take your DIY converted loco apart and try and see why it is not working on a DC power source. As I said before, if it won't work on DC it ain't gonna work on DCC. Subject to the CV29 caveat I mentioned in a previous reply.

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Another thing you could do whilst waiting for the Hatton's delivery. Is prepare RM with the locomotive configuration. The loco you have on order is a previously owned R3122 now this is not a DCC Ready locomotive so there won't be a factory fitted socket. The Hatton's product description says it is DCC Fitted, so this must have been done as an upgrade by the previous owner. There is no information as to whether the previous owner fitted a socket as part of the upgrade or what address it has been set to. So a bit of an unknown quantity all round.

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This previous post of mine tutorials the setting up of a loco from scratch in RM.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/loco-registration/?p=1

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Use it as a guide, but note the following.

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1. Where you enter the loco R number in the search box [Arrow 3] in my tutorial, you need to enter your loco R number R3122
2. Where my tutorial shows Arrow 6 for the setting the loco address task. You can fast track that task by using the loco icon just to the left of Arrow 6. This will open a small dialogue box where you can enter the loco address directly. Note that the loco MUST be placed on a short length of programming track connected directly to the eLink 'PROG A & B' output terminals. RailMaster does not support programming locomotive decoders on the main track.
3. My tutorial was written for a TTS sound locomotive. Your loco has no lights or other controllable DCC functions, therefore the list of functions on the right hand side of the locomotive configuration screen will be all set to 'not used'.
4. In case you are not aware. If you want to reset ANY loco decoder back to its factory state and reset its DCC Address to 003 [for example your Hatton's purchase]. Place the loco on the programming track connected to the eLink 'PROG A & B' output terminals. Use the " i "  icon pointed to by Arrow 6 in my previously linked tutorial to open the CV reading / writing screen and write value 8 to CV8 - see manual page 69. Writing 8 to CV8 for ANY decoder will reset it to factory configuration. This of course assumes that the CV write task is successfully completed. This can be checked by using the reading CV function [green tick in bottom right corner] to see if CV1 returns the 003 address value. If CV1 returns 003, then the reset was successful (assuming that CV1 was not already 003 prior to the reset].

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Of course you won't be able to implement the 'setting the loco address' part of my tutorial until such time as you have the loco physically in your possession.

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The above should be enough to get you started. I'm sure you will have more issues and questions once your Hatton's loco arrives. Ideally I would like your next post to be along the lines of "Yes all set up and working OK", but I daresay you will need some more support. I will keep my eye on this thread and look out for progressing you through the next chapter.

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Good Luck

Chris.

 

[Chrissaf]

For followers of this thread, Graham has raised the next chapter of this saga (configuring the locomotive and getting it running under RM control) as a new topic thread.

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You can read the next chapter here:

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/railmaster-elink-hornby-r3122x-0-6-0pt-gwr-green-2721-no-2773/?p=1