eLink Problem [Hardware Fault, not RM]

[Chrissaf]

I woujld suggest that you contact the Hornby service department about this one.

A local (to you) computer repair shop MIGHT be able to replace the socket.

[Chrissaf]

Have recently moved my E-Link controller and, in doing so, have managed to break off one of the pins in the USB socket on the side of the E-Link unit. Does anybody know if it is possible to repair/replace the socket or does it mean buying a complete E-Link controller.

[Chrissaf]

Replace the USB socket yourself, it isn't rocket science and parts are available.

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These two images are from Rob's (RAF96) eLink tear-down article. Describes how to take the eLink apart. Look at the style of the USB connector.

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Now compare the socket shown above with this one from Rapidonline components. They look almost identical.

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Links.

Rob's tear-down article.

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Rapidonline

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Note that to unsolder the old socket from the PCB you will need some 'Un-soldering Wick Braid' if you don't use the wick to soak up the solder from the pins and mount fixing tags, then you will most likely destroy the copper tracks on the PCB and delaminate the PCB from the excess soldering iron heat. I know that this comment might put you off, but the wick makes the removal task a doddle. That is what it is designed for.

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This 'How To Solder' tutorial will assist too.....if this would be your first time soldering on PCBs.

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TIP: As this is your first post, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

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Particularly as my reply includes images. If you use the blue button, any reply you write, may be held back for image approval. Even though it is already a previously published image.

[96RAF]

Look like a fairly easy job to change the USB-B socket if you can get hold of one (old printer maybe) and you are handy with a soldering iron.

See here for how to pull it apart and what the component looks like.

http://www.halton96th.org.uk/page14.html

[Berniewest]

Many Thanks for the replies. I have ordered the B series USB Connector as mentioned above. If it looks too difficult to fit I will get some help from a friend. I have also written to the Hornby Service Department and await their reply. I hope I don't have to buy a replacement E-Link but If I have to, I will.

[Chrissaf]

Did you also order some 'wick braid' as well (same online supplier...links provided)?

[Berniewest]

Chrissaf. No, I didn't. I didn't read that part of the post untill after I had ordered the connector however, I know my friend (mentioned above) has got some so I will get him to bring some with him.

[Chrissaf]

Do give us all an update as to how it went.......it will be useful to know for others.

[FransSacco]

Hi...if you are thinking of buying the Elite and not using the eLink and therefore connecting the Elite to the same laptop you have PROVEN has a fault with the eLink you are running a risk of not having any working system at all on that laptop. It is my suspicion that there is simply not enough power getting to the USB sockets on that main board inside your laptop.

[Tomchatz]

if it dosent work hattons are seling the elink for £30

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[Chrissaf]

Bernie clearly stated that he broke the pin on his eLink USB connector and has made absolutely no mention of replacing it with an Elite........

[96RAF]

Note the two tags on the case which support the socket onto the pcb. It may be possible to cut the pins and tags and unsolder them one by one. As Chris said beware of delaminating the pcb tracks by using too much heat or force.