Pnosferatu Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 Hi,I'm a complete novice to all of this. Ive recently converted a little 0-4-0 to DCC with ease, but have just been given an R850/5 Flying Scotsman with a glowing fire box and want to convert that too. I have a decoder and have run it for an hour in both directions on DC to check it runs ok, which it does. The problem is that I can't find a guide on how to do this conversion anywhere. I can't even make heads or tails of how the thing is wired up.Could anyone help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 Look here (just as a starting point):https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/hornby-dcc/decoder-installation-guides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pnosferatu Posted May 14, 2019 Author Share Posted May 14, 2019 Thanks, I have had a look there but they none appear the same as mine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 Try this, it's for the motor on your loco. You will need a beefy decoder that can handle a 1Amp stall current. https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/making-the-x03-and-x04-dcc-fitted-the-proper-way!/?p=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 1 Amp decoder means not the R8249 or TTS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted May 16, 2019 Share Posted May 16, 2019 Yes indeed, a standard decoder or the TTS decoder wouldn't cut the mustard stall current wise. Unless you want to keep the loco original I would also suggest making a small pcb to fit in the glowing fire box, it is possible to fit a bridge rectifier, resistor and orange or yellow flickering 3mm LED on a tiny pcb in the glowing firebox to replace the old power hungry firebox glow bulb. The feed wires for this can simply be passed through the hole the old bulb used to sit in and connected to the first function output. Being an LED means the load on the function output will be a lot less than a bulb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flashbang Posted May 17, 2019 Share Posted May 17, 2019 Hi I would not recommend the use of the "First Function Output", as this means the flicker will ony illuminate when travelling forwards! Use Fuction Three or Four (Green or Violet/Purple wire with Blue being the Positive). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flashbang Posted May 17, 2019 Share Posted May 17, 2019 Forgot to add... If you opt to use the decoders Function outputs you do not need a bridge rectifier or any other rectifier or diode. As a decoders Function output is DC. You would of course need a series resistor fitted into one lead to the LED. See below re 12 volt rated LEDs..You would only need a bridge rectifier if using the DCC power directly to the LED (Ideally use a fast recovery rectifier or make one from four Diodes e.g. UF4001)) and feed the rectifiers input (AC) from the DCC power and its output (DC) to the LED one lead via the series resistor. Ohm rating of the resistor will be best at around 1K to 2k2 (1000 to 2200 Ohms) Higher ohm if you want to reduce the brightness of the LED. A 1/4 (0.25) watt or higher wattage resistor will be fine to use with a single LED.Note: LEDs are polarity conscious and need to be connected the correct way around to illuminate and also have a series current limiting resistor fitted (unless the LED is rated at 12 volts then it will have a built in resistor). Never connect a 'standard' 2 to 3 volt rated LED directly to the DCC or a decoders Function output without a series resistor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pnosferatu Posted May 19, 2019 Author Share Posted May 19, 2019 Ok... so to clarify if i were to get a sapphire or similar decoder and wire an led with a resistor directly to function 3/4 and the blue wire it would work without a pcb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted May 19, 2019 Share Posted May 19, 2019 Ok... so to clarify if i were to get a sapphire or similar decoder and wire an led with a resistor directly to function 3/4 and the blue wire it would work without a pcb? Correct - just get the led the right way round as previouslymadvised - anode to blue wire. Resister can be in any leg. If you want flicker then you will likely need additional components or a flicker led. Some folk have used a flashing yellow with a steady red for firebox glow. Having said that if you are usng a Sapphire it has the ability to set special effects for lighting, such as strobe, flash, flicker, etc. via CVs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pnosferatu Posted May 24, 2019 Author Share Posted May 24, 2019 Brilliant. Now having followed the guide on a different loco with a x.03 motor, ive got everything in place and can read the cvs on railmaster but... if i try to run the loco it won't move at all. If i squeeze the motor brushes towards the motor it runs constantly in reverse and wont respond to any commands.... any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 My first thought is as you are now talking about a problem with DCC operation of a different loco, not converting the original loco to DCC, you start a new thread with a descriptive heading including loco type and you are far more likely to get useful replies. Hidden at the bottom of this thread, many may miss it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pnosferatu Posted May 24, 2019 Author Share Posted May 24, 2019 Fair point, ive done as suggested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted May 30, 2019 Share Posted May 30, 2019 Sounds like the insulation used is too thick causing a poor brush contact. I used insulation off 0.2/7 stranded wire for both sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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