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Which decoder for SECR 0-4-4T H Class 265?


Nic1823

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Just taken delivery of the 0-4-4T SECR '265' H Class, great looking loco, but would like to add a decoder.  Can this use a sound decoder, if so, which, or will it only use the 8-pin decoder?  Have both DC and DCC layout, so still looks good :-)

I've searched the website, but clearly looking too hard, as can't find the info. :-)

Thanks in advance.

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Hornby Magazine did a several (2-3) page article about fitting sound to an H Class, and it involved a fair bit of carving of the bodywork internally - it was not a straight forward fit. I have two, but there still boxed. However I would assume that an 8-pin direct fit decoder (TCS DP2X-UK - there are others) would be ok, as you don't have a harness to lose inside. I'm sure someone will come along who has fitted a decoder - not sure about sound.

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@Bulleidboy - thanks for the decoder number, saw an article a while ago, so will take another look.  Incidentally, just noticed that the instructions mention that this new loco is DCC Ready/Sound, so just needed to know which one really :-) .. not too worried if there are internal mods required... I'll get the Airfix modelling toolbox out :-D

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Nic1823

I've found the Hornby Magazine - it was January 2018 and five pages. I can't copy five pages, but may be able to give you a few pointers. They used a Zimo MX648 sound decoder (£98),  a Zimo 15mm x 9mm cube speaker (£9) and the sound decoder was laoded with Digitrains Southern Region two-cylinder sound (£0.01).

Six screws hold the two main body parts together, with these removed, the boiler,tanks,cab and bunker will lift off the die-cast footplate - may need a little persuasion due to glue-bleed. They unscrewd and removed the DCC socket and reduced the height of the socket mounting mounts by cutting - this gave a few mm's extra space - the socket was then removed and the new decoder hard-wired - it then sits (double-sided tape??) in the space where the old socket was - but lower. The speaker was mounted on the cab floor. They cut away the moulded coal load from the bunker, and a small notch was cut into the base of the firebox backhead so that the speaker wires can be passed through for attachment to the decoder. All wires were reduced to the minimum length required. They added crew to disguise the speaker. Hope this is of some help. BB

 

PS. Have you run this loco yet - there were a number of problems with the loco not moving, smoke coming from under the body, and in some cases serious body melt.  If you haven't, and have a rolling road, might be worth running with body off. This has also happened to some  Hornby Collector Club Models. As I said earlier I have two, but they are still boxed, but will be treated carefully during initial run-in period - there is a fuller expanation on RMweb.

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BB - thanks again, this all good stuff... however, re your PS, this is the collector club model and was just about to run this in the analogue track.  As yet I don't have a rolling road, as just restarting a hobby I had as a boy in the 60s, so basically relearning everything I've forgotten, so pointers like this are invaluable :-)

I've set up a short loop to test and can build myself a rolling road easily enough later.

Does anyone know if these issues are being/have been addressed by Hornby? If so, what is the comeback?

Thanks

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If you Google RMweb and find the Hornby page - look for "Hornby announce the ex SECR / SR / BR(s) Wainwright H Class 0-4-4 tank as part of their 2017 range" - if you go to page 54 - yes 54 - everything is long on RMweb(!) and start reading it will explain the problem - Hornby have replaced some that were sent back - but I'm afraid it's not a general recall. Many have had no problems at all, but it did seem to affect both the normal model and the Club Special.

The reason I said run the loco without the body, is that if anything is going to get hot, it won't melt the body work - as some have experienced.

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BB - thanks, understood.  Have been running without the body on a makeshift rolling road for about an hour in both directions at varying speeds and it only got warm to the touch.  The one thing I've noticed is that the rpm is better and more constant when running through a surge protector, as direct off the mains fluctuates and judders somewhat, particualrly on a Sunday when the roast is in the oven :-)

 

Although I would always recommend running any low voltaged small components; laptops/PCs, printers, chargers, transformers, etc., through a surge protected socket :-)

 

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Nic1823 - I'm not an electrician, but slightly concerned as to why you need a surge protector? What controller do you have? I can run my trains, with the oven, tumble dryer, washing maching, micro wave and electric kettle all going a the same time, and it certainly does not affect how my trains run.

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