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DCC track power connections.


Guest Chrissaf

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When connecting E link to the track do you need to use the digital connector supplied by hornby or can you just wire direct to the track. Is there some special chip  in the digital connector.

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Neither the Analogue R8206 / R602 power connectors nor the Digital R8241 / R8242 power connectors contain active devices (such as IC's). The Analogue products do however contain suppression capacitors that need to be removed if used on a digital layout. These capacitors are the only difference between them.

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Yes you can just solder your power connection wires direct to the track rails (outside or underside but not inside rail faces). In fact, direct soldered wires is highly beneficial on a digital layout and preferred by many modellers.

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Chris

Thank you for the quick response And very helpful. I have asked the same question in another section so apologise for the repeat.  Unless you know the answer to the transformer size sold with the e- link.

Thanks again 

Tony

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Would you know if the 1 amp  is sufficient to run about 5 loco’s with sound at once or do I need to get the bigger 4amp. At the moment I am running with a Bachman E-Z command 500-35 and it seems to struggle with all loco’s running at once. I am switching points from a seperate transformer with the lights getting their supplies from the track.

 

Tony

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Using the TTS spec sheet as a guide...

...max load on the decoder is 800 mA with typical running load of 250mA so you could run 3-4 locos at light load on the 1-amp supply.

 

The 1-amp power supply protects against overload by dropping its output voltage so the eLink would likely lose comms with RM and the locos as it rebooted After the power supply recycled.

 

Using the 4-amp supply will allow you to run as many as 10 locos at once on light load.

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Thank you RAF, it looks like I need to order up a 4 amp transformer. Can you recommend a transformer to buy or should I stick with the Hornby transformer..

I must say the forum is extremely helpful and I have a feeling I will be back as I try to install the system. However I will read all the information on the forum before I proceed.

Tony

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Although there are power packs that have 15 volts DC output at 4 Amps. You will struggle to find one with the correct DC connector on it to suit the Hornby controller. You are advised not to skimp on cost and purchase the official P9300 Hornby 4 Amp power pack in order to maintain any Warranties.

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The Hornby coax connector by the way, which is not very common and can be difficult to source compared to the more common power pack connectors, has an outside diameter of 6.3mm and inner pin of 3.1mm. For comparison the common power pack connector is 5.5mm / 2.1mm and is not compatible with Hornby DCC controllers.

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PS just for info. Transformer is the incorrect terminology to use. A transformer is a unit with an AC output. The Hornby power pack is DC output. Thus the correct term to use is either power pack or power supply.

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And what makes that worse Norman, is that the Hornby power pack is a 'switched mode' power supply. Only older 'linear' power supplies have a 'transformer' in them as the initial voltage reduction component. Switched mode power supplies operate differently and don't use transformers par say, which is why they can support a very wide mains input voltage range.

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Web site content is probably written by the marketing department.....not engineers who would know the difference. Many of the early (now obsolete) DC controllers had AC inputs and used transformer based power packs. So 'Marketing' just carry on using the same old terms.

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And what nobody ever considers is these 'switched-mode' devices are made as cheaply as possible,  often not fitting adequate rf noise suppression, and thus wiping out radio reception for a significant distance around them, just like the accursed 'wifi over mains' range extenders, called PLT - and various other names - not all repeatable!

Look it up, don't take my word.

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Tony, can I suggest you use a “suck it and see” approach with the transformer.  Only buy the 4 Amp if you find you actually get overloads in operation.  Trying it out is free and an overload or two for test purposes isn’t going to damage anything.

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