blackfive41 Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Anumber of Hornby locos I have recently bought suggest attaching the name plate with Bluetack. This must result in a poorly fitted nameplate due to the thickness of Bluetack that must be used. I used Deluxe Materials Glue n Glaze applies with a pin. Any excess can be wiped off with a tissue and it dries clear. Does anybody else share my view ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Bluetack is a ridiculous idea. Paint is very good as is very thin double sided tape available from craft shops among others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 I use black tak - a very small piece which you smear on the contact surface, then line up across where it goes and press gently, gently rolling the finger forwards / backwards. It works perfectly, done well is not visible, and if needs be can be removed. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VESPA Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 I have done many Britannias with PRITT STICK as it is easy to remove excess and they stick on very well indeed. None have fallen off so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 A Hornby DCC Factory Fitted Merchant Navy Clan Line 35028 - fresh out of its box, on the rolling road at this very moment. Also a Modelmaster ID kit (nameplate, cabside number and smokebox number) awaiting attachment - it will become 35001 Channel Packet. As Vespa - I have used Pritt Stick before and it worked well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil_Spiegel. Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Rapido Trains, and now, I see Bachmann (in their Class 90 instructions) advocate the use of PVA to attach small detail parts to the bodyshell ..... if the type used is watersoluble then any error, or need to remove, can be corrected later by applying water.Therefore it would seem a good idea to use a tiny drop of PVA to fit the nameplates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Is it best to seal the nameplate with a clear varnish/laquer once the transfer has been applied? In my case a Merchant Navy - there is a "flag" transfer that sits in the middle of the name plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 As I stated earlier, a tiny 'spec' of Black Tack works great - place one end of contact surface of plate and spread / pull down for maximum cover within the limits, hold by edges and gently 'slap' into place, then wobble your finger side-to-side at each end and in the middle, to ensure good contact - job's a good'un. If not certain practice with some waste to ensure good coverage, and no smearing out to becom visible, yet enough for good retention. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyd 85B Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Plus one for Pritt - or its cheaper equivalents. Never had a failure (yet!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sultan Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 For attaching etched nameplates to diesel locos I mask off around the printed nameplate and paint a thin coat of matt varnish. I then lay the plate on the varrnish using the masking tape as an alignment guide to ensure that the naew nameplate is level. Once the varnish has dried I remove the masking tape.On steam locos such as the Hornby 'Grange' I remove the plastic nameplate completely and set the new etched nameplate in place with superglue supporting it in position until teh glue has set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 I did change adhesives this time and used Glue n Glaze. It worked very well and can be applied using a very small paint brush - so it's fairly easy to get no surplus oozing around the sides. Cab-side number applied followed by a coat of Testors Matt Cote - I can still see the outline of the transfer - more coats? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 Hornby M/N Clan Line 35028 now renamed and numbered as 35001 Channel Packet. It's not to bad, but I can still see the cabside number transfer edge. I have since sprayed it with Satin Varnish which makes it look a little better, and have fitted a new whistle. https://flic.kr/p/2hru5PQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now