walkingthedog

What a strange thing to say. Why would Hornby lie, what have they got to gain by doing so? Everybody gets things wrong sometimes. 😉

You asked for advice and flexi is the answer, that is what it is for. Sorry it isn't the advice you wanted. Good luck with your search.

If I didn't use flexi I wouldn't get my layout to fit.

One of the best bits of railway modelling, getting things to work.

OK replace the R628 with a piece of flexi track. Flexi is much cheaper than buying straight sections. Very useful when laying sidings as well.

To get the right side to line up with the left side you need a short piece of straight track between the R628 and the R8078 points. I would have used another R8078 right hand point instead of the R628 then the geometry would be correct and would allow another parallel line to the right. Hornby have not got the geometry wrong, flexi track is made to sort out the problem you have, replace R628 with a length if flexi.

Mine is from KS Laser Designs. It is let into the baseboard at each end and held in place with four screws. Track is laid straight on to the base, no ballast or underlay as it is unusual to have ballast on a girder bridge as it could wash away.

Mine is a single track version similar but not wuite the same to Robs. It slotted together without any rubbing down or modification. I used PVA. /media/tinymce_upload/ff71fda7349e4888771131bf2241f97c.jpg

God almighty what a miserable lot of people there are on here. Supposed to be a model railway forum. I came back on here after a break of about 5 months. Don't know why I bothered. Hope all of you enjoy your trains and those who relish the miserable side of life enjoy that.

Is the quality so bad? I have never thought so. A lot of issues are due to bad running and handling.

I don't like the fact that to uncouple, for instance, two wagons you have to physically pull them apart. .

Could be. About 160 employees, small to medium.

But Hornby isn't a big company, big name but not a big company. Try and look on the bright side instead of gloom and doom. 😆

Could you have put some/all of the wheels back the wrong way round? One wheel will be insulated from the axle and the other not.

Can you use point clips on a DC layout?

Looks like it is DC not DCC so point clips are not to be used.

Lots of companies have done well since Covid, Screwfix and Dunelm to name but two. They have payed back the furlough money.

May I suggest you Google/Yahoo etc. Skakedale Coal Drop and study the dozens of images that will appear.

I only ever used the clips when designing the track layout. Once done the power feeds are always soldered to the rails, it's the only way as far as I am concerned.

They look no more realistic than tension lock. I think one of the problems is that to uncouple you have to pull the rolling stock apart.

Yes you are correct, I read it wrong. In that case as it was the third cog that was at fault, the worm drive and its cog must have still been meshing. A picture would have helped. Good to know all is well.

Sorry I'm confused. The ordinary power clip that slides into the track has two holes for the wire. Remove the insulation from the end of the wire and slide the bare wire into the holes. Hold in place with a piece of cocktail stick, matchstick, thin nails or anything else that does the job. It works well, not as good as soldering the wires to the track. You could clamp the wire to the baseboard near the power clip if you think you might pull the wires out, bit like the way a power lead is clamped in a 13 amp plug.

If the top gear has moved to one side it wouldn't mesh with the worm.

Glad you have sorted it.

When I used power clips I slid the wires into the holes and held them in place with small nails. Never caused any problems.