Schuie52

Thank you I will have to resort to painting it Matt black as the hobby trax light units are all smd components and they don’t give out cv numbers to turn down the headlight the red lights are fine

Thank you bill this is what I was thinking

Hi all I am in the process of converting my apt to dcc and putting direction lighting, which I now have completed and programmed, but I have run into a small problem with the hobby trax lights yes they all work well but the headlight seems bright and I am getting light bleed through the cab nose, any ideas on how to overcome this problem as all is fine otherwise Michael

Hi all some help please I got this loco through the collector club and I have a select controller and wish to change the address to 37 not a problem, I have downloaded the hm dcc app and this where I am confused as the paperwork says code 3, do I follow the instructions as to the paperwork and download the sound files to the app and sort that out and then put my loco on my programming track and then change the address, then go back to the hm dcc app and change the address there so it matches my address that I wish the loco to be 37. any help will be appreciated michael

Hi all need some help please I have one of the original apt train and I need to get the body of the driving car so I can fit led lights, this also applies to the trailer car, I have looked on you tube but no joy as all the posts already have the bodies removed. any help Wii be appreciated. regards michael

Hi thanks for the information regards michael

Hi all need some help as Hornby could not help me, I have a class 61 prairie tanker running number 6150 which in excellent condition and I require a service sheet and maintenance sheet, I have done some investigating and this loco was a collectors club special edition and found it’s Rnumber was R2143 can anyone help me with the service sheet number and the maintenance instructions regards schuie 52

Hi all i am need advice as i am at a loss i have a castle class Hogwarts and it didn’t run, i have cleaned the wheels and ser iced the unusual ringfield motor i believe its the Chinese one, reassembled the motor and i got it to run, I had the chassis ready to convert it to dcc before i went to start the conversion i tested it again and low and behold it would not run and checking the motor again i was getting percular readings across the brushes, i have scoured the internet for brushes,springs and even the aramature with no success can any one out there help me as i do not know which way to go now or is there any modifications i can do with the brushes by using the standard hornby ringfield brushes and springs?

Hi hope some can help me how many versions did Hornby bring out and were they either dcc ready or dcc fitted as I wish to fit a dcc decoder also what service sheet would be the correct one as I can’t see an r number and is it easy to remove the body. any help will be appreciated regards schuie

Hi hope some can solve this problem i run dc as well as dcc locomotives with no problems up till now, i have a triang R50 53 princess elizabeth which I have serviced on DC it runs fine on the rolling road and a length of test track but when I put it on my layout it trips with E5 showing, checking the current being drawn it shows 100ma and I don’t know where to go now, one thing I have noticed is it goes to E5 as soon as the loco is placed on the track. hope some one can point me in the tight direction regards schuie52

Hi all hope every one is alright my question is i want to dcc this loco that's not a problem but wish to keep the fire box light do i connect to the , do i connect the the leads to the rail pick ups with the red and black leads from the decoder totether and just leave the the output of the decoder to the isolated brushes?, any advice would be of great help schuie 52

Hi all found the problem it turned out to be the track pick up contacts somebody had replaced the wire going to the capacitor and from there to the motor, this lead was intermittent short to the chassis undoing the plate found a large lump of solder on the joint so removed the excess solder and cleaned all is up and running ,happy to this loco running thanks for the help 😀

Hi going spare the motor is energised but not able to drive the loco the worm is brass and the worm wheel is black plastic (X04) motor regards schuie

Hi thanks for the information have checked all of the wheels and they are all fitted correctly two insulated wheels on one side and the other two wheels are connected to the chassis side, still working on the problem schuie

Hi all need some help I purchased a stripped down flying Scotsman managed to rebuild the chassis and tested the unit without the motor and all the timing is correct and i could push it along the track with ease checked the motor and tested it out of the chassis and runs fine but when I insert the motor back on the chassis it won't turn the wheels, any help will be greatly appreciated schuie