walkingthedog

Think I would be tempted to buy some etched brass deflectors rather than hack off the moulded rails.

I don't think the photos are production models, it's not a Hornby article.

Maybe the photo shows moulded ones mortehoe but the expensive one come with separate handrails on the smoke deflectors. Read this link. https://www.hornby.com/news/hand-decorated-pre-production-samples-br-4-6-2-duke-of-gloucester-class-8/

mortehoe said: cooped said: It really does look a good RR version, which would also be a better BR days representation without the modern warning symbols etc, For those with a steady hand it must be oh so tempting to detail yourself. Only other differences I know of are the cylinder drains and wire handrails on the smoke deflectors. Looking at the link Johnygee provided, both versions have molded hand rails on the smoke deflectors. If that is the case, WTD has the right idea, purchase the RR version, and detail if you so desire. The expensive version comes with wire handrails plus many other items for you to fit.

The drains and handrails can be added. Warning symbols can be removed with care.

Yes there are hence the 30 quid, however, the very early Railroad version I saw at Ally Pally looked really good. I'd rather pay less and detail it myself.

A spot of yellow plus red stripe on the axle boxes on the Railroad version and they'd look the same

The smoke deflectors appear blacker on the expensive version. I think it's a trick of the light.

That's good. The rollers on my road were pretty pricey.

It's strange they bothered with the static track length. Surely the tender could have stood on some rollers then any loco could use the road.

I remember when I got my WD 2-10-0. I ran it in on a the rollers on a section of track next to me on a book case whilst watching TV. It looked great although I'm not sure the wife would agree.

After I'd pressed post I thought that was what you were saying. I have a rolling road system that just consists of the rollers. You just stand as many as you need on any powered section of track.

Forgive me for being dim, no comments please, but why do you want to reduce the length of the track section because its too short, don't you mean increase its length. .

If its suitable for DC I would have thought it would be ok for DCC. DCC DC and live steam are identical in as much as they pick up current from the track. If the road works with one it has to work with the others. If there is a problem due to a capacitor, remove it.

It would have had a pantograph when new. I guess you should be able to obtain a spare from somewhere.

Best if you use track plans to give you ideas. Sketch roughly what you want and then build the main parts, and add bits as you go along. I doubled the amount of sidings after I thought I had finished, not that you ever finish.

My 9F's manage second rad Graskie. Two Hornby one the other company.

There is nothing worse than having to lift track after a few years so that a new loco will run OK, especially if you've ballasted and landscaped.

Trouble is David somebody might start off with a couple of diesels on 1st rad and then decide to get a steam steam loco. They will be very disappointed when they find they can't run it. Best to use large rad curves if you can. 2nd rad is fine with almost all locos. It's just 1st that can be a problem. Think ahead you never know what you might purchase.

Oh well LC at least we've given him plenty of choice.

I think I gave you a bit of duff gen. If it's an old model there isn't a screw but there is another lug at the back a quarter ish of the way up the bunker. You have to push the lug in with a small screwdriver or similar and then lift the cab. Take a look at the link below. By the way this is exactly the place to ask this sort of advise. Welcome to the Forum. https://www.hornby.com/search/?t=FileLibrary|Service+Sheets&q=R351&tag=

If I remember correctly remove the screw at the back, I think it holds the coupling in place, lift the cab and the slide the body slightly forward. The front is attached by a couble of lugs that slot into holes just above the buffer beam.

I don't think I will be buying a 2-8-0T or 2-8-2T. I like heavy freight locos and allegedly WR but I have never been keen on WR tank engines.

Mmmm trainlover, same thing crossed my mind.

I'm strictly analogue Seagull, sorry.