Fitting loco nameplates

[blackfive41]

Anumber of Hornby locos I have recently bought suggest attaching the name plate with Bluetack.  This must result in a poorly fitted nameplate due to the thickness of Bluetack that must be used.  I used Deluxe Materials Glue n Glaze applies with a pin. Any excess can be wiped off with a tissue and it dries clear.  Does anybody else share my view ?

[walkingthedog]

Bluetack is a ridiculous idea. Paint is very good as is very thin double sided tape available from craft shops among others.  

[atom3624]

I use black tak - a very small piece which you smear on the contact surface, then line up across where it goes and press gently, gently rolling the finger forwards / backwards.

 

It works perfectly, done well is not visible, and if needs be can be removed.

 

Al.

[VESPA]

I have done many Britannias with PRITT STICK as it is easy to remove excess and they stick on very well indeed. None have fallen off so far.

[Bulleidboy]

A Hornby DCC Factory Fitted Merchant Navy Clan Line 35028 - fresh out of its box, on the rolling road at this very moment. Also a Modelmaster ID kit (nameplate, cabside number and smokebox number) awaiting attachment - it will become 35001 Channel Packet. As Vespa - I have used Pritt Stick before and it worked well.

[Phil_Spiegel.]

Rapido Trains, and now, I see Bachmann (in their Class 90 instructions) advocate the use of PVA to attach small detail parts to the bodyshell ..... if the type used is watersoluble  then any error, or need to remove, can be corrected later by applying water.

Therefore it would seem a good idea to use a tiny drop of PVA to fit the nameplates. 

[Bulleidboy]

Is it best to seal the nameplate with a clear varnish/laquer once the transfer has been applied? In my case a Merchant Navy - there is a "flag" transfer that sits in the middle of the name plate. 

[atom3624]

As I stated earlier, a tiny 'spec' of Black Tack works great - place one end of contact surface of plate and spread / pull down for maximum cover within the limits, hold by edges and gently 'slap' into place, then wobble your finger side-to-side at each end and in the middle, to ensure good contact - job's a good'un.

 

If not certain practice with some waste to ensure good coverage, and no smearing out to becom visible, yet enough for good retention.

 

Al.

[Lyd 85B]

Plus one for Pritt - or its cheaper equivalents. Never had a failure (yet!). 

[Sultan]

For attaching etched nameplates to diesel locos I mask off around the printed nameplate and paint a thin coat of matt varnish.  I then lay the plate on the varrnish using the masking tape as an alignment guide to ensure that the naew nameplate is level.  Once the varnish has dried I remove the masking tape.

On steam locos such as the Hornby 'Grange' I remove the plastic nameplate completely and set the new etched nameplate in place with superglue supporting it in position until teh glue has set.

[Bulleidboy]

I did change adhesives this time and used Glue n Glaze. It worked very well and can be applied using a very small paint brush - so it's fairly easy to get no surplus oozing around the sides. Cab-side number applied followed by a coat of Testors Matt Cote - I can still see the outline of the transfer - more coats?

[Bulleidboy]

Hornby M/N Clan Line 35028 now renamed and numbered as 35001 Channel Packet. It's not to bad, but I can still see the cabside number transfer edge. I have since sprayed it with Satin Varnish which makes it look a little better, and have fitted a new whistle. 

https://flic.kr/p/2hru5PQ