DCC railmaster newbie

[billy_bragg]

DCC newbie so bear with me...

I wanted to get into DCC, so have bought a hornby e-link and railmaster, installed on a laptop OK and the software can see the e-link fine.

Set up a long section of straight track as a test, have a Bachmann 57xx DCC ready and have swapped out the blank chip for a hattons 8 pin chip.

Set up railmaster to read the train on COM3 as that should be the default.

The problem I have is that the loco is not getting anything from the controller and doesn't move at all.

Any ideas why this would be? and any help would be much appreciated.

RAF

[96RAF]

Just to get some of the terminology correct.

COM 3 refers to the communications channel that RM is using to talk to your PC via the eLink.

You can see this in PC Device Manager.

Whilst here look at the settings and make sure the baud rate is the same as it is in the controller setup screen in RM. It should be 115200.

It seems that you likely have this right as you say the eLink is recognised. A simple way to check is hover over the controller icon top right of screen and it will tell you the eLink revision number. Also in the controller setup screen Controller A - eLink should be white. If it is pink then there is a comms problem.

 

Now the loco needs to be listed in RM with its decoder address (DCC ID).

The loco decoder ex-factory comes with address 3 and if you have listed the loco in RM and it has this address then it should run.

If the address in RM and the loco decoder are different then you need to match them either by changing RM to suit the decoder or changing the decoder to match RM.

 

Have a go at that and report back what tou see.

[Chrissaf]

In order to eliminate more than half the possible causes of your issue, can you answer me this question please.

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With reference the image below (yellow highlighted bits). Can you confirm that the controller icon is green and not greyed out.

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Secondly, when you hover the cursor over this controller icon....you should get an information popup appear. Please tell me what the popup says exactly as it is displayed.

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/media/tinymce_upload/a9839fdbc1c297dfbeba66c391efa2b5.jpg

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Answer these questions for me, then I will be in a better position to offer more targeted advice.

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I assume that your reference to COM3 is just a misuse of terminology and you mean DCC ID 3 (DCC Address 003) which is the decoder factory default address. As Rob indicated, COM3 is a computer serial communication port and nothing to do with DCC addressing.

[billy_bragg]

Baud number was set, Com3 was set for USB and the computer can see the e-link as it is white and not pink.

I apologise for my lack of terminology, Controller is green and says controller a v.1.07

[Chrissaf]

Controller is green and says controller a v.1.07

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OK, so communications between RM and the eLink controller do appear to be configured OK.

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eLinks do go faulty....so one thing to do would be the measure the voltage output directly on the 'TRACK A&B' output with a multi-meter. I take it that you have connected your short track piece to the 'TRACK A&B' output and not the 'PROG A&B' output.

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Put the multi-meter on the AC Voltage range and you should measure a voltage typically between 13 and 15 volts. Not got a multi-meter......this is an essential diagnostic tool for this hobby and can be sourced on ebay for less than £10 delivered.

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If the track voltage is OK and the eLink communications is OK, then either the loco or decoder is faulty** or you have not yet configured the loco correctly in RailMaster (or not using the RM loco interface correctly).

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Note** will the loco run on a DC voltage supply?

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If it runs on the Hattons decoder chip with a DC voltage applied, then the basic wiring and pickups within the loco would appear to be OK.

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It should be noted that many forum members have reported issues using the cheap Hattons decoders with Hornby controllers, so it may be that you will need to substitute the Hattons decoder for a better branded item.

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Just to eliminate the using RM software part of your issue. Here is a previous posted thread that discusses setting up a loco for the first time within RailMaster.

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This one specifically covers setting up a loco that is not in the Hornby database. This could just as easily be a non Hornby loco such as a Bachmann. It is also written for a 'sound loco'.....just ignore the sound references if not needed.

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Manually adding a Loco to the RM Database.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/r3459tts-decoder-not-recognized-23469/

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This supplementary thread may be useful too.

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Full description of the ‘Locomotive Settings’ screen in detail.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/changing-cruise-and-shunt-speeds/?p=1

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[billy_bragg]

Hi there, thank you for all your help so far, it is much appreciated.  😀

Now for a more confusing update...

The loco runs fine on DC with the chip installed. The loco also runs as it should if I turn it upside down and touch the two wires from the e-link directly to the wheels of the loco (accelerates and slows as it should). And tried this with all the wheels. As soon as it goes onto the track it looks like it tries to move but has no power. The track and wheels are clean but the track is about 10 yrs old, yet nickel silver and clean.

Also forgot to mention that I tried the multimeter test and was getting 15V exactly through the track.

The only other questionable thing could be that the e-link came with a european plug that I have put into the socket with a european adapter, could that be an issue? The loco is a Bachmann 57xx Pannier

[Chrissaf]

If wires touching directly on the wheels works OK, then I would suspect you might not be using DCC track power connectors.....read on for detail.

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...but the track is about 10 yrs old,

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If you are using 10 year old track and if your layout was once a DC Analogue layout, then you may still be using DC Analogue power tracks / power clips.

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Check your power connector to your track. Assuming Hornby track parts, you might still be using a R8206 power track or a R602 power clip. These two track power components are designed for DC Analogue layouts and not compatible with DCC powered layouts.

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The correct track power connectors for DCC are R8241 and R8242

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The DC Analogue power track parts have DC Analogue suppression capacitors inside them that go across the track. These capacitors distort DCC Signals and shunt DCC power (shunt - similar to a slight 'short circuit'). These DC Analogue components can have a dramatic effect on the digital DCC track signal and DCC decoders and prevent them from responding to commands.

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The R602 & R8206 power products can easily be modified to be DCC friendly. By opening the covers and cutting out any capacitors that might be found inside them. The need for this mod also includes the R8201 link wire product as well if you are using one of those. See the image below.

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/media/tinymce_upload/7cfeeabcbc5ed1c9ffb54a9799374e81.jpg

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Even if you think you are using the correct DCC power connector parts, open the covers anyway and check to be sure that no capacitors are present.

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If you do find the capacitors present on any power connection track / clip on the layout (even if just one is present). Then once removed, I feel reasonably confident that this will resolve your issue. So do check them all if more than one track/clip is used on your layout. This capacitor removal mod also includes your connection to your 'programming track piece'.

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[billy_bragg]

Currently I'm using Peco power feed joiners to connect to basically one section of long track as a test before fitting anything to the layout. I wanted to see if I could get to grips with DCC before fettling with the layout, so I have one Hornby Long straight with power going to one end. I did the test as you mentioned with a multimeter and when the throttle was turned up on e-link the track was measuring 15v ac exactly. The loco moves ever so slightly if pressed down onto the track but seems to have not enough oomph to move so to speak. Could the loco have DC  supression capacitors in it that could be causing the problem? Although why would it work ok when the wires are applied directly to the wheels? Confused.

/media/tinymce_upload/32b2d7345df3302c3bd2b643b34bb45f.jpg

[Chrissaf]

Confused.......so am I.

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PS - The throttle position makes absolutely no difference to the track voltage. DCC is digital and does not work that way........forget all your existing DC Analogue knowledge, it has no bearing on the way DCC operates. The track voltage is always present at full voltage regardless of what you are doing with the DCC controller.

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Try soldering the wires directly to your long test track piece....I am not a fan of these wired PECO connectors. Since the direct wires to wheels work, then the issue must be with the way the same wires are connected to your track piece.

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If you are using a Hornby track piece, the PECO joiners will have a slightly different profile and may not be making good contact, particularly if only pushed on at one end of the rail rather than joining two rails together. Also if they have been sitting around for a long time unused, they may have a near invisible layer of tarnish on them. Tarnish (oxidation) can play havoc with DCC signals.

[96RAF]

This could be as simple as those skimpy rail connector wires not getting a decent contact with the eLink sprung terminals.

As Chris says solder some decent gauge electric string to the rails and connect that to the eLink.

[billy_bragg]

I have solved this now! And even though I've solved it I Istill don't understand why?

Basically I'd set up a piece of r603 long straight to test and for some reason it just won't work on that piece of track. The track is clean and fine and everything. When I put the controller on the layout it just worked fine first time. Try that one piece of track again, nothing.

I have about another 6 pieces of r603, I will have to try the rest.

Many thanks for all your helpful responses they are much appreciated!

 

Rob

[Rog RJ]

I remember someone else had trouble when using an R603 as a programming track.  Must be something odd about them that affects DCC.

[Fishmanoz]

The problem will be you connection to the track.

 

How are you connecting the controller to the layout?  With a Hornby power track or power clip or direct solder?  However you are doing it, use the same method for the 603 and it will work.  There is absolutely nothing different with a 603 to any other piece of track that will make it more or less compatible with DCC.  It is after all only 2 rails held in place at the correct gauge by plastic sleepers, just like any other piece of track.  The length of this v other track pieces is irrelevant to DCC.