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DCC trains aren't running on my track with my elite controller


Guest Chrissaf

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Hi guys,

 

I'm wondering if any one can help me. I've set up a track and connected my Elite controller to the track. I can run my DC trains round on '0' but cant seem to get anything DCC moving. I've battery tested my DCC trains and their working but not on the track.

Has anyone got any ideas, thank you very much in advance.

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Reading your post, it infers that your layout until recently has been a DC Analogue one. If that is the case, and it is using Hornby track, then it is probably using DC Analogue track power connection products. Either R602, R8206 or even possibly R8201 link wires.

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All of these track connection products are DC Analogue variants and will corrupt Digital DCC signals. In some cases more than sufficient to prevent the loco decoders from reading the Digital DCC signal and responding to it. Hence your reported issue.

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If any of the above stated products are used, they must either be modified for DCC Digital use, or replaced with DCC Digital R8241 / R8242 versions. The image below shows what is involved with the DCC modification [Note...doing this mod will not affect DC Analogue loco operation].

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IMPORTANT Note this.

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Just because your Elite controller supports the Zero Address feature.....do not use it on your existing Analogue locos......to do so highly risks your loco motors being over-heated and permanently damaged. A caveat that the Zero Address feature should not be used is actually printed in the Hornby manual in small print.

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TIP: As a newbie poster, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

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Particularly as my reply includes images. If you use the blue button, any reply you write, may be held back for image approval. Even though it is already a previously published image.

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See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

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Hi Chrissaf,

I also have the same problem, I've took the link clip apart and had a look. I've had the train set for about two years and it used to work with the Elite with no problem. I've just recently got in down from the loft and thought I'd try and set a track out and just still cant seem to get it to work.

Any suggestions ?

Thank you

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After years in loft storage. Everything will have either got dusty, dirty or tarnished (oxidised). DCC is very unforgiving and needs spotlessly clean track and cleanliness in all connections used to connect the controller power to the track. Loco wheels will also need cleaning. Your starting point is to give everything a very thorough clean (do not use wire wool or other strong abrasives....only proper model rail cleaning products).

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Your locos may also need a little oiling as well.

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See also the sticky post at the top of the forum General Discussion section titled "FAQ - Beginner question - My loco/set does not work" which gives some basic diagnostic and testing methodology.

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TIP: As a newbie poster, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

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See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

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This reply aimed primarily at Bethany but some of it is applicable to Auc too.

[This is why it is best not to hijack somebody else's query and start your own.]

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You really need a multi-meter to undertake some form of testing regime. A meter will show if there is any power getting to the track. A meter on the AC Voltage range should get a reading between 13 and 15 volts.

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Have you looked at the sticky post I suggested....it gives some tips on using a 9 volt battery to test if a loco is working. Most DCC locos with default decoder configurations will still respond to 9 volt DC battery power. The battery does need to be brand new and fully charged, and a larger PP9 is better than the smaller PP3 if one is available.

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EDIT: Battery codes corrected. Thanks to Eric for pointing out my typo error.

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In other words, if the loco wheels spin when using a battery, then that indicates an issue with the controller or the power getting from the controller to the track. No spinning wheels with a battery indicates that the problem may be with the loco.

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Your situation might be a little bit more onerous to diagnose as you are using DCC control.....in other words the power on the track is present, but the right digital commands are not getting through to the loco DCC decoder from your Elite. Or you are using the wrong DCC address .... see below:

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Since it has been in the loft in storage, have you perhaps forgotten what DCC address has been configured in the decoder and you are trying to operate it using the wrong address.

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If you place the loco on the 'programming' track connected to the 'PROG A&B' output of the Elite, can you read the decoder CVs. If they all respond with the value 255 then the Elite cannot detect the decoder. To start with, read the value of CV1, this will tell you what DCC address is set for the loco (assuming it is an address between 1 and 127).

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Try writing 8 to CV8 this will factory reset the loco decoder and revert the decoder address to 3.

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If the factory reset is successful. You can then test the loco again, but this time using the default 3 address.

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Are there any error codes showing on the Elite LCD screen and if so...what are they?

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This is about the only remote advice I can give you as to undertake a full diagnosis I would need to be physically there in person doing it for myself with a set of diagnostic test equipment.

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RAF, is your man, for Elites, and no doubt he will be along in due course. There was a dadgy batch of these, i would suggest you both post numbers appearing on back of these controllers. From that, i belive he can eliminate these, or confirm they were involved. Once you have cleared the controller problem, the rest, is downhill. I would not try an update at this point, for this reason, as the odd ones, became bricked, and did not return. These days, they are an excellent controller, and happily update/ reset. Mine,  is not used for long periods, due to climate, but touch wood,  fires up, ok.

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