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Hiawatha and similar [DCC Conversions]


Guest Chrissaf

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I am returning to modelliung after decades ... and everything has changed!

 

Building a layout (my forever layout) and deciding that it it should be DCC, for operational and functionality reasons. However I would still like to operate my 50-55 year old locos on it - the oldest of which is a "Hiawatha" from c. 1964.  My questions;

1. Is it possible to convert that loco (for instance or others of that vintage) to DCC? Or are they beyond conversion?

2. How easy is that? (I read articles on this tyoe of conversion every month in some of the railway mags - it looks difficult)

3. Are their individuals or businesses you recommend who could price and then execute that conversion on my 6-7 old engines please?

4. Roughly what cost am I likely to incur? (Is it worth doing or whould I simply shelve my old dear fleet?!)

 

Thank you for advice

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Whilst you wait for a reply, perhaps you would spend a few minutes reviewing the TIPs in the TIP page link below:

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TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

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See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

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Hi Nick362, 

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

It should be possible to convert older locomotives to DCC - some might be easier than others. The main thing is they should work flawlessly on DC before any conversion is undertaken. You mention that you read model railway magazines each month and these should have plenty of info regarding the price of decoders and I would expect them to have adverts from either shops or individuals that can convert your locomotives for you. The cost depends on the decoder used and the complexity of the job.

 

I moved to DCC in 2003 and and all but one of the locomotives I have bought since then has been fitted with a decoder. I have never bothered going back and fitting decoders to the older models I have, some of which go back to my childhood in the 1970s. I am happy to occasionally run them on DC and enjoy them that way.

 

But its up to you................

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The main thing to bear in mind with the older models, is that generally, the older motors can use more current.

 

Therefore, it is vitally important to use a decoder with sufficient current capacity, to avoid damaging the decoder.

 

With all models, the basics are that the motor brushes can only pick up power from wires from the decoder, and that there is no way for stray connexions from the brushes to the track.

 

With the X.04 type motors, one brush is insulated from the motor frame, and therefore the chassis, wheels, and track.

There is a wire from the track pick ups on the insulated wheels to this brush.

 

The other brush is connected to the chassis, wheels, and therefore the track.

 

It can be a good idea to fit a socket, generally an '8-pin' socket to a converted loco, as it means that the decoder can be easily swapped out if required.

 

Basically, the suppression capacitor between the feed wire and chassis is removed.

 

The feed wire is connected to the appropriate terminal on the socket.

 

A wire from the chassis is connected to the appropriate terminal of the socket.

 

That is the track connexions done.

 

The uninsulated side of the brush spring, the 'V' shaped wire spring on top of the motor needs a second insulating sleeve fitted, the same way as the insulated side.

Some insulation from a length of electrical wire can be used, it needs to be the same size as the existing sleeve. Another option is to cut the existing sleeve in half, as long as there is sufficient length to avoid contact between the metal of the brush, and the brush spring.

 

You should have a brass shaped tag on the existing feed wire, which clips in between the metal plate of the brush, and the fibre brush holder.

 

Ideally, you need another of these tags.

 

A wire from each brush, via these tags, would be connected to the revelant terminals of the socket.

 

That is the motor connexions done.

 

For testing, a 'blanking plug' can be used in place of a decoder.

 

The blanking plug is a dummy plug, that fits in the 8-pin socket, and connects the motor and track terminals together, allowing the loco to be used on DC analogue ONLY!

Do not use a DC analogue loco on a DCC track at any time, to avoid damaging the loco motor!

 

If the loco runs ok on test, and a meter test on continuity finds no connexions between the motor brushes and the track, then a suitably rated decoder can be fitted.

 

That is only the basics, as I understand them.

 

More details are available elsewhere, as mentioned in other postings above.

 

 

The light, if fitted, would need to be rewired.

Be aware that the higher voltage of DCC may burn out the bulb.

 

Service Sheets.

 

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