Older 3 pole black 5 dcc conversion

[Apt chick]

Hi there normally when you convert a dc loco to dcc there are wires but in this instance in the tender there is only one wire for left pickup via the engine but there is no pick up wire for right hand side which suggests that somehow there is internal wiring? as that is needed to connect to decoder and then the decoder to motor has anyone dealt with kind before photo included for advice trying to add R8249 decoder

 

Carla/media/tinymce_upload/065b336ade15f19fb94c2d4493f6ed89.png

[Chrissaf]

In those situations, the 'internal wiring' you are referring to is usually the loco chassis or in this case the motor chassis. Refer to the edited image below, but please do not take my suggestion as being gospel truth. There are different types of Ringfield motor [your motor is a Ringfield] and each have there own conversion requirements. I may have identified the wrong type of motor isolation method.

 

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Refer to this website that describes the different Ringfield types and their optimum conversion methods and compare those to your particular motor.

 

https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC-Page-1.html#decoderinstalation

[scroll down the page that opens to the Ringfield motor section]

 

TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

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Particularly as my reply includes an image, using the 'Blue Button' may result in your reply being held back for image approval, even though it is an existing image.

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See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

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[96RAF]

Another current path method (and you will find all variations in the linked site Chris flagged up) is for the left hand brush tag to press on a small boss similar to the ones seen on the left and right hand sides of the housing in your picture.

In that case you can either bend the tag away from the boss or slip an insulator between them.

In every case the aim is to isolate the current path between each brush and the wheel picking up power before you can install a decoder. Failure to do so will destroy your decoder.

[ColinB]

If your "Black Five" is the same machanism as mine (mine is LMS red), then as RAF96 says its is the left hand tag that has the connection to chassis. Assuming it hasn't snapped off you will see a piece of plastic pressing on the left hand tag, behind this is a post sticking out from the chassis which the tag presses against. I think on the ones I converted I cut off the spade tag and soldered the wire directly to the left hand brush retainer. Hornby and Lima both did this on later models. On mine it is the only connection to chassis, there are no screws as indicated on Chris's diagram, but again it depends if your mechanism is the same.

[Going Spare]

The poster's photographs show the tender drive unit to be the later UK-made type with weights integral with the motor block so the electrical connection on the lefthand brush arm is via the screw,