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Heljan turntable


sir john

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@Sir john

That is really not the sort of question to ask on the HORNBY Forum.  Whilst it is alright to discuss other brands, active promotion is not accepted.

A positive answer could be seen as promotion whereas a negative answer may be removed as it is felt unfair to criticise another product.

Your question would be better asked on a neutral Forum.

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@rds 

I think you are being very unfair I often read in I members replies (no name) about how much better certain decoders are  than hornby also one post( different member )is saying a heljan turntable is the best seems like I rule for some 1 rule for others just need to treat every body the same

John 

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Yes, I have one of these. The indexing is brilliant. I used to have an old Triang one but I was always having issues with the motor and one day while I was trying to fix it, it fell off the table and disintegrated. I looked around for a suitable replacement. Not only was the Hornby one expensive second hand (they weren't doing them new at the time) when I asked around it appears it is a bit noisy, which was one of the major issues with the Triang one. This site is meant for discussion so I see no issue in giving advice on a Heljan product. I found out that the Heljan was not only incredibly quiet, but it also uses software to get the indexing right. I control mine with DCC and it is brilliant. The only issue I have found with it is placing the outlets and powering them, where the Hornby scores better. It is also all setup for DCC.

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THE HELJAN TURNTABLE - SEEN ON MY LAYOUT "BASINGSTOKE 1958-67". 

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My Heljan turntable. This is now 10 years old, and recently installed on my latest layout (Basingstoke 1958-67). It has been used on a previous incarnation of my layout and gave no problems whatsoever. Indeed having used Fleischmann, Arnold, Tomix & Kato variants in the past, I would say this Heljan one is the best. 

 

My version has the  Digital "Infra red" detection system and was intended for use by either "Analogue" or "DCC fans". You can add tracks up to around 40, anywhere around the turntable. You then simply "programme" the supplied controller with each position. The instructions are concise and programming is simple. In this picture I have not added the little wheel house as yet, as that's still in the box. 

 

The turntable comes with a handful of spare parts including two sets of table railings in case you break the ones fitted. Also certain parts to make it look more American, not required on a British layout. This turntable will accommodate any British outline tender loco except possibly the 2-6-0+0-6-2 LMS Garratt. 

 

The turntable mechanism is hidden inside the actual turntable. The turntable itself can be simply lifted off, without any hinderances. All very helpful and user freindly.

    

The Duke 71000

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ColinB,

Yes, the hut was originally clipped in place. Obviously I have a nasty habit of taking things to pieces to see what makes them tick (especially real steam locos). So the hut is currently in its box. The hut wasn't glued on my model.

 

I am aware that Heljan have made one or two mods to this item since I bought mine. I think this now includes two variants with different control units. And the DCC variant now has more functions, but exactly what I can't say.

 

Howes of Oxford are the Heljan importers/agents in Britain. Due to Coronavirus they are probably sitting around just packing parcels. So possibly a good time to phone them if you have any further questions.

 

Happy modelling 😀.

 

The Duke 71000  

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Sir John,

Compatibility with code 75, 83, or 100 track can be dealt with by either packing the track approaching the turntable with Kellogg's cereal packet card. (You only have to eat the contents to get the free card). 

 

Or, possibly sinking the turntable slightly lower, but that depends on what sort of baseboard you have and whether you use Cork underlay or similar.

 

Maybe I should add, the Turntable requires a circular hole to be cut in the baseboard. Mine came provided with a full size scale paper foldout template, to aid getting the hole correct. A jigsaw is strongly recommended

 

The Duke 71000

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Yes, mine came with the same template. Originally I bought some code 75 to code 100 converters, but I found they won't work because where the two bits of rail join on the converter is where you need to strip back the sleepers for the piece of rail to fit the deck. I just bought code 75 track for the loco shed outlets and will use a piece of code 75 track along with a converter track for the outlet to the main track. I suppose if you have got some really old locos the code 75 track may be an issue.

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Sir John,

 

Just had another look at my turntable and it is fitted with US Code 83 rail. However you can only lay the rails of whatever track you use across the turntable edge, NOT the sleepers as well.

 

 

I superglued my code 75 rails across the turntable edge, but to match the code 83 rails on the turntable, had to pack my rails slightly with a strip of 10 thou plasticard beneath the rails. I also filed the end of my rails to a slight point to help ensure the wheels go across the 1-2mm gap !  

 

So if you are using code 100 track, you will have to reduce the height of your rails by 13/1000ths of an inch, across the turntable edge !

 

The Duke 71000

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Duke 

Thanks for that I only have 4 tracks I in 3 out so will be easier to use code 75 for the shed and coaling road rails and get a converter for the in track many thanks for your valuable advice 

P.s think basingstoke is awesome wish I had you skills 

Regards John 

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  • 1 month later...

I would agree with the comments on the ease of use although I use code 75 rail and needed to pack it to correct the height. It is obviously very continental looking so I removed the hut and filled in the space between the track with plasticard. I attach a picture just to show the effect.forum_image_6037d6e5f3eb7.thumb.png.c4e9dc19315b243e174160aef70db23b.png

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