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fitting decoder


joseph37

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I think koo9 has it right. Although the Class 37 seems t ocome in many guises, they all seem to have a 3-pole ringfield motor and so installation is as koo9 says, or similar to the Hornby HST, which you can find at https://www.hornby.com/hornby-dcc/decoder-installation-guides/
You

might also check http://www.hornbyguide.com/item_menu.asp and put Class 37 in model/search and you'll be able to find your particular model and its servie sheet (NO 105 or 210 covers them all I think.
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Joseph,

If it is the X337 power bogie with an X03/X04 motor then it is not a Ringfield. These are dated back to 1968 Triang Hornby. If it is the X04 motor service sheet http://www.hornbyguide.com/service_sheet_details.asp?sheetid=144 The service

sheet for the power bogie http://www.hornbyguide.com/service_sheet_details.asp?sheetid=126 These are more awkward to fit a decoder. If you have given the correct info does the bogie look like this?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=150780309771&nma=true&rt=nc&si=lRky6Mhxi5Q7aYhPHe2eg97wHOc%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc


Now

not 100% sure on this., both brushes needs to be isolated, to do this the brush spring needs to be insulated (heat 1.5mm shrink tubing will do) both sides.
Orange decoder wire soldered to the Right Brush tab.
Grey decoder wire soldered to the Left side

brush tab.
Red decoder wire to the Right side wheel pick up.
Black decoder wire to the Left side wheel pick up.
The orange/brown capacitor needs to be removed....

Guys please correct if wrong!!!!!!!! as mentioned not 100% sure.

You

would need a decoder with at least 1.25 amp continuouse and a 2 amp stall.

If by chance is your loco a Hornby R751 Class 37 later that 1978
Service sheet http://www.hornbyguide.com/service_sheet_details.asp?sheetid=23 If it is this one then it is

a 3 pole Ringfield Motor. Easy to convert.



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Joseph,

I posted earlier with links but the moderators are withholding at the moment. If it is the Old Bogie with the X04 motor, these have a spring bolted on the top of the bogie and clips the the brushes in place either side pointing downwards(brushes

are horizontal). One side is insulated and the other is not. The pick ups either side of the wheels are conected at the top either side as well. Service sheet 69 Is that correct?
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Joseph,

Then this is the old x04 motor dating back to 1968. The X337 is the complete

power bogie.
Steps to hard wire a decoder. I advise to use a decoder with 1amp continuous and 2 amp stall.

Chaps please advise if incorrect, not 100% sure on this one

First step Know the decoder wires and where they go. Important

ones with asterix

1 Orange wire Motor Right *
2 Yellow wire Rear Headlight
3 Green Function 1
4 Black Left Rail *
5 Gray Motor Left *
6 White Front Headlight
7 Blue Common (V+)
8 Red Right Rail *
9 Purple function 2

Remove

the capasitor S5230
1/ X665 Brush spring. These need to be insulated both sides
2/ solder orange wire to right hand X67 Brush at top
3/ Solder grey wire to left hand X67 Brush at top
3/ Solder red wire to right hand S3283 collector (make sure

the collector is isolated from center at top)
4/ Solder black wire to left hand S3283 collector (again make sure it is isolated from center top)

Be careful of S3374 top housing contact washer that it does not touch the collectors either side.
Hopefully

test should be OK..........
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Joseph, I think Yojic has it spot on, everything he says is correct I think. If I can just add/emphasise a couple of points for you:

- the only decoder wires you need are the red and black, which go to the collectors one each side, and the orange

and grey which go to the brushes, one each side. Cut the rest off and insulate the ends.
- cannot use the R8249 standard Hornby decoder as it doesn't have enough power. If you use Hornby, it must be the Sapphire but there are other options around which

are cheaper but must be 1 amp/2 amp as Yojic says
- you will find the brush spring is only insulated on 1 side and you must insulate both sides and solder the orange wire to the right brush and grey to the left
- essential the collectors are electrically

isolated as Yojic says

To do this mod, you will have to know how to use a soldering iron and a multimeter or contunuity tester (to ensure everything is isolated as per instructions). If you aren't familar, take it to a model shop that has a decoder

fitting service to do it for you.
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  • 7 months later...
Hi davew, it seems your London 2012 set is DCC ready, which means it contains a socket with a blanking plug for DC operation and all you have to do is remove this plug and instal a standard 8 pin decoder such as R8249 and you are almost up and running

except - you actually need 2 decoders, one for the driver car and one for the trailer in order to operate all of the lights. These should be programmed with the same address, and you may need to program both in the driver car then transfer one to the trailer

as decoders don't like being programmed when they can't see a motor load on them.
Sorry, couldn't get more technical than that for you as this one is simple I think. If it's not, someone else will correct me for you.
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hi thanks for the early reply but the train does not have a socket so I cut the wires as per the hornby installation dcc book and soldered them as per instructions. The train has a printed circuit board fitted which does not appear in any of the installation

instructions on other trains. Tried train after fitting decoder but no action. Checked and have 17v ac on the rails ok but no volts on motor ?
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Wow, that sure is major surgery suggested. I think I would be removing black lacquer and making a narrow cut in offending PCB tracks to achieve the same result, then I could bridge with solder if I ever wanted to put it back.
Dave, just keep in mind

this simple principle - decoder black and red wires to wheel pickups and orange and grey to motor connections. Removing capacitor across motor will improve performance and you also need to check that motor terminals are isolated from the pickups or resulting

short will fry the decoder. You also have the complication of wiring for lights. These use the white and yellow function wires with the blue +ve common. If I remember correctly, white is forward and yellow reverse.
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