Class 58 DCC conversion . Help

[Kidcurry]

Hi All.

I have been slowly converting my collection to DCC. A varied range.

I have a Class 58 BR Diesel. no R250 running no 58007. Grey.

I have reviewed the Hornby database of models and service sheets etc listed on this forum and well now confused. The 58007 say it is a 1983 model. but it only has 1 wire connect to the motor as show in 137B service sheet which shows a 1989 production run.

Either way. it was boxed as all is ok. Loco runs fine and is in great condition.

HELP. How do I wire the DCC chip as I need 2 wire to connect to. Photos attached.

many thanks for any help as usual.

Steve

[96RAF]

You will see the wire to the front bogie goes to the metal ‘chassis’ block which is picking up track current from the all metal wheels (see service sheet) via the axle.

The motor bogie is the other path in that the opposite wheels are picking up track current and putting it onto the other motor brush.

You need to isolate both motor brushes from the track pickup paths and insert your decoder in that electrical gap.

[Fishmanoz]

Following on from Rob, there are in fact two wires:

• the first wire is the obvious one coming from the other bogie to the top brush holder
• the second wire is the very short one from the bottom brush holder to the tag screwed to the chassis just under the motor

Disconnect each wire from its motor connection and connect them to decoder red and black, then decoder orange and grey go to the motor connections. If the loco runs in reverse to what you were expecting, swap orange and grey.

Alternatively, you could first fit a socket, wired as above to the appropriate pins (see pin diagram under decoder installation in the DCC section of this site), then plug the decoder into the socket.

Once the wires are disconnected and before fitting the decoder, just check there is no continuity between either motor connection and chassis (there shouldn’t be, otherwise the short wire would not have been needed). Any such connection will blow the decoder.

[96RAF]

A picture to illustrate what Fishy has added.

[Kidcurry]

Thank you. Just for info the picture shows the motor mounted on it's side, whereas mine is flat.

I have found that although there are lots of versions over the years of all logos etc. But still we get variants. Does make it interesting.

I will give it a go. I do have the sockets which is my preference. This way the loco's can be reverted back if required.

Regards to all.

[Fishmanoz]

Adding to Rob - he has included L5627 presuming it to be a capacitor. It’s not as it has no wiring attached and note, there are 2 of them plus an L5628. They are called reservoirs.

If they are suppression components, and I’m not sure from this, they would be inductors and the wires would pass through them. If so, they can be discarded. However, they do little harm and, if you wish to return to DC, you might leave them in place. They don’t have the risk of a short circuit causing a problem as a capacitor does.

But without a photo showing them assembled, I’m not sure.

[Jupiter 1707822591]

The l 5628 are mouldings that fit on the under frame representing air tanks

Of no consequence to the DCC conversion

[96RAF]

Apologies for any confusion caused by including the air tank. That was an artefact remaining from where the original service sheet was cropped. Reference back to the parts list in my earlier post will make it clear that they have nothing to do with the motor installation and wiring.

[Kidcurry]

Hi. Update.

Now converted and running ok.

To confirm, mine did not have the second wire. The motor was fitted flat. The screw securing the motor made contact with the unwired terminal and screwed into the metal chassis. I dismantled the contact assembly and cut off the part of the contact that touched the screw. Reassembled, which meant both terminals were open. Cut the feed wire I had in 2 and inserted {soldered} the socket between. Reconnected the wires to their original points, then with 2 new lengths of wire, soldered to the socket, one to the motor terminal and the other to the copper contact on the bogie, tested with a DCC ready plug inserted, all good. Fitted and programmed the new chip. Done.

As mentioned another version of what I thourght I had.

Next I have 2 R751. one with ringfield set up and one with X03 magnets.

Doing the ringfield first.

Do enjoy this.

[Fishmanoz]

Some Ringfields can be more difficult than others, specifically the ones where the LH motor brush holder is connected to chassis via its screw. The clue is there is no wire connected to it. Replacement of screw with nylon type needed.

Check out Brian Lambert DCC pages which cover 3 different types of Ringfield conversions.

And well done on the first conversion incl breaking the connection to chassis. So much for giving advice based on service sheets. Hornby and grains of salt come to mind.

[96RAF]

This is the Class58 motor bogie I have.

As you can see it has pickups on one side only (blue wire) and the top motor brush needs feeding from the front bogie.

If the motor were flat then it would need a new motor mount to keep it above the gear train line.