London 2012 DCC

[KaCee]

 

Just purchased the London 2012 train (https://www.hornby.com/shop/london-2012-range/hornby-train-sets-and-train-packs/r1153-london-2012-train-set/)

 

The order page does not list it as DCC Ready. I am assuming this means it is not.

 

I have

 

seen though that it has working lights front and back. Does this affect the wiring of a decoder? Do I need to do anything different to make sure this works?

[GordonBigBoy]

I believe you are asking about the Hornby R1153, as opposed to the Limited Edition R2961.

 

I was gooing to buy one so I tried google but there is little info on the net. So next up I asked Hornby and this is what they said:

/

Thank you for

 

your email.

The R1153 Hornby London Olympics 2012 set is not DCC Ready. It would still be possible to fit a decoder by soldering it into the engine. Please note that two decoders (one for the power car and one for the dummy car) would be required.

/

There

 

is a decoder installation section on the Hornby website which deals with DC to DCC conversion of loco's half way down the page https://www.hornby.com/hornby-dcc/decoder-installation-guides/

 

Hope this helps

 

Just for info I also looked at the Blue

 

Rapier set for DCC conversion as well and that too is problematic I understand.

 

[KaCee]

Ok... thank you but now I'm even more confused!

 

Now that I know it will need soldering, that's ok by me, by why 2 decoders? Is the one in the dummy car completely just for lights? Will this mean the 2 decoders need to be linked and used as a consist?

 

And

 

I don't see anything on the decoder install page about installing decoders in dummy cars?

 

Anyone with more info please?

 

I'm not a total and complete novice to converting to DCC, I have managed to change over 2 DC locos that were not ready, but

 

this is the first time I have tried one with lights, or with a dummy car.

[Flashbang]

Hi

In the rear non powered car your decoder will be wired...

Red & Black to the wheels to collect track power.

The Orange and Grey wires are not used and unless you're installing interior or cab lighting the Green and Purple/Violet wires won't

 

be used either - assuming a four function decoder is being used.

The decoders White and Yellow wires connect to the lights. If the lights are LEDs, then you must ensure they are connected the correct way around or they wont illuminate. Also a series resistor

 

is required to reduce the current flow and voltage to the LEDs (These may be already fitted?) ideally one resistor per lit LED. Remove any diodes that may be factory fitted too.

Connect the decoders White wire via the resistor to the White (forward direction)

 

LEDs Cathode lead - Negative lead. Connect the Yellow wire via their resistor(s) to the Red (Rear direction) LEDs Cathode Negative lead. Connect together the LEDs Anode leads - Positive and then connect that to the decoders Blue wire.

 

Set the rear decoders

 

address number to the same as the front power cars address number. No consisting is required.

If the rear cars lights operate the wrong way around then use the DCC console to reverse the 'Normal Direction of Travel' on the rear car only. See the consoles

 

manual on how to do this. But only do it on the rear non powered car.

 

If you find you are unable to set the address number on the rear non powered car when its on the programming track, then place both the powered and non powered cars onto the programming

 

track and set both to the same address number. The reason this may be necessary is some decoders without a motor connected to their Grey and Orange wires wont allow the console to carry out programming, so doing both units at once overcomes this.

Similarly

 

if the normal direction of travel is wrong on the non powered car (As per previously explained) then place both units onto the programming track and alter both. Then remove the non powered car and reset the powered unit back to where it was originally by re-entering

 

the direction alteration commands again.

[Fishmanoz]

GordonBigBoy said:



Just for info I also looked at the Blue Rapier set for DCC conversion as well and that too is problematic I understand.

Gordon BB, there is nothing "problematic" about conveting modern non-DCC ready

locos to DCC. All are relatively easy and follow exactly the same principles as the ones in the Guides provided by Hornby on the site. You do have to be able to solder though.

[KaCee]

Thanks Flash! While confusing, that is the information I think I needed.

 

Why oh why cant they just start fitting all new trains as DCC Ready? I understand not everyone wants to upgrade.... but would make it so much easier.

[GordonBigBoy]

Fishmanoz said:

GordonBigBoy said:



Just for info I also looked at the Blue Rapier set for DCC conversion as well and that too is problematic I understand.

Gordon BB, there is nothing "problematic" about conveting modern

non-DCC ready locos to DCC. All are relatively easy and follow exactly the same principles as the ones in the Guides provided by Hornby on the site. You do have to be able to solder though.

Hi Fishman - wrong choice of words by me there, my

apologies if I was misleading. Please amend problematic to read 'overly complicated'.
I refer to the thread below where it talks about all wires in the Blue Rapier being black, the need to remove circuit boards inside the loco and general confusion over

whether the Blue Rapier is DCC ready or not. It is not. All of the above makes it overly complicated for a newbie. https://www.hornby.com/forums/hornby-forums/hornby-digital/1252/#post12599

[poliss]

I can understand some of the very, very, very old models not being DCC ready, but a 2012 model? There's no excuse for it.