Lightning F Mk 6 (A05042)

[Ratch]

About to start two of these.

[Ratch]

My main information source, and some RBF decals



[Ratch]

I bought these in the Black Friday Sale, saving £7.00 on each kit. The kit is 1/72 scale with 112 parts moulded on five grey runners and one transparent sprue. It is manufactured in India and the decals are printed by Cartograf. Marked as Skill Level 2 and the box carries 1 Flying Hour. Paints (not included) are listed as 11, 21, 22, 24, 33, 53, 56, 61, 85, 102, 145, 163, 164, 165, 167, 186 and 191 for both decal options and including the pilot. Instructions come in a 16-page A4 booklet. Assembly is illustrated in 43 exploded diagrams in the Hornby era style with red features. Two decal options are provided, printed to the usual high quality that Cartograf have become renowned for.

·        A. XS927 No. 74 Squadron, R.A.F. Tengah, Singapore, 1970.

·        B. XR728 No. 11 Squadron, (LTF markings for Group Captain John Spencer), Royal Air Force Binbrook, England, 1988.

Option A is an NMF scheme, whereas option B has light grey upper surfaces.

I compared the mouldings against the drawings of Richard J Caruna. There are small differences, although I could not confidently state whether the drawings or the kit are accurate

[Ratch]

One of each decal option, one in flight, the other grounded. Progress may be a little spasmodic as I have a couple of holidays coming up.

[Ratch]

Cockpits under construction.

Both pilots being painted, one will go on the Reserve List.

AK Interactive AK456 True Metal Dark Aluminium wax for the wheel wells and intake pipes, applied by brush and polished.

[Ratch]

Assembled and painted the internal components. Surfaces where decals would be placed were prepared with Humbrol Clear. The instrument panel decals were applied using DecalFix. I then washed the tub with Vallejo Game Color 73202 Pale Grey Wash. Painted both pilots and wash the figures with Vallejo Game Wash Dipping Formula 73300 Sepia Shade. Brush with Matt Cote. One used, one to Spares.

One model will be mounted in flight and therefore no nose weight is required. The other will be grounded. I added Deluxe Liquid Gravity in the void behind the radome, using PVA to fix it. 

It was then closed up and the intakes assembled.

The office sits atop.

Tail pipe assemblies airbrushed with Vallejo Model Air 71072 Gunmetal (Metallic).

Assembly moves on.

The nose needed holding together while the glue did its work



[Ratch]

The instructions advise 4g of nose weight in the radome and having added an indeterminate weight there I fixed a 5g tyre weight to the rear of the compressor plate with cyanoacrylate super glue.

I had a gap behind the nose wheel well and decided to use AK103 Hard White Modelling Putty to fill it.

This is very similar to Vallejo Model 70400 Plastic Putty that I usually employ but comes in a tube rather than a dropper bottle. Like the Vallejo putty, it can be smoothed with a finger requiring minimal sanding when set. Fitting the forward belly panels resulted in a gap at the root. This was filled using Vallejo Model 70400 Plastic Putty.

I forgot to drill out the locating holes for the In-Flight Re-fuelling Probe and had to calculate their positions from the outside.

The flaps were fixed, and wings cemented to the fuselage as were the tail planes.

I fitted the undercarriage doors in the closed position for XS927 and will return to fit the undercarriage on XR728.

I added the smaller parts to each airframe so they would be painted all together.

Some parts were not fitted for ease of construction, and this was not necessarily identical for each airframe. Part E15 (starboard ducting) is incorrectly identified on the instruction sheet; there is no part E15 on the runner, but there is part E13.

Red Top missiles were assembled for XR728. Firestreak missiles and over-wing tanks were made for XS027.

The pylons for the missiles were fitted, as were the tanks, before the main paintwork was commenced.

Thanks for your interest.

[Ratch]

Mostly it has been a routine build so far, so I hope I'm not boring everyone. I'm not into after-market add-ons unless I want to replicate a specific subject that is different from what you get in the box. Then I might try some crude scratch-building or cross-kitting. I do like to apply different markings if possible.

[SD45elect2000]

Mostly it has been a routine build so far, so I hope I'm not boring everyone. I'm not into after-market add-ons unless I want to replicate a specific subject that is different from what you get in the box. Then I might try some crude scratch-building or cross-kitting. I do like to apply different markings if possible.

 

 

 

 

I build several at a time also. I hate tossing decals !! Good show Ratch !!

 

 

Randall

[Ratch]

Cheers Randall.

XR728 masked up. The canopy is tacked on with PVA. I shall reposition it later.

I had quite a bit of fettling to do on XS927 to get the canopy to fit, mainly sanding the bottom of the office chair.

I could then prime both airframes.

The missiles were also primed white.

[John M]

Hi Ratch, those Lightenings are coming along nicely. Looking forward to seeing them progress.

[Ratch]

This is how I organise my builds, I start with a list:

How to build an aircraft

Research the aircraft.

Wash parts in soapy water.

Examine the instructions.

Drill holes for rigging biplanes

Paint the internal components.

Assemble and paint the propeller Humbrol Acrylic 24 Matt Trainer Yellow for the propeller tips and Humbrol Acrylic 33 Matt Black on the propeller blades.

Paint interior components Humbrol Acrylic 78 Matt Cockpit Green / Humbrol Acrylic 90 Matt Beige Green, Humbrol Acrylic 160 German Camouflage Red Brown for the seat cushions.

Dip the transparencies in Klear.

Paint the crew or use a pilot from spares.

Wash the figures with Vallejo Game Wash Dipping Formula 73300 Sepia Shade, Vallejo Game Color 73203 Umber Wash or oils.

Construct the main part deciding whether to build in flight or grounded – leave top wing off bi-planes.

Fill the seams using Vallejo Model 70400 Plastic Putty.

Use PVA to fix the transparencies.

Mask the canopy.

Prime and pre-shade.

Paint the exterior.

Paint touch ups.

Klear.

Apply decals using DecalFix and Microsol                         .

Add the small parts.

Vallejo Model Air 71080 Rust + 71052 German Grey + 71057 Black / Humbrol Enamel Wash AV209 Oil Stain = oil, exhaust & cordite stains.

Vallejo 26.518 Matt Acrylic Varnish.

Remove masking from the transparencies at this point.

Attach the canopy with PVA.

Use Aeroclub Rigging Thread/ Gold-Zack Strick-Elastic knitting-in elastic for the aerial wires.

Of course, not every build is the same. Some things get done, others are omitted, new actions are added depending upon the kit, or the order might be changed. It doesn't eliminate my forgetfulness, but it helps.

[Ratch]

Everyone has their own way. We pick things up on the way through our modelling journey. Adopt, adapt and improve - discard what doesn't work for us. I try to keep an open mind and am willing to try things. If it works I add it to the arsenal, and if I don't get on with it I just admire the work of those who can.

[Ratch]

Fun is what it's all about.

[Ratch]

Last session on these before I go away tomorrow. I started by brush painting Humbrol Acrylic 11 on the gun pack of XR728.

The 165 on the under surfaces.

I then airbrushed Vallejo Metal Color 77701 Aluminium over XS927.

XR728's Red Tops were airbrushed white (as were 927s Firestreaks), and Vallejo Model Air 71051 Barley Grey was airbrushed over the upper surfaces.

I then removed the masking.

XS927 was masked and sprayed black.

No point in wasting lots of tape when newspaper will act as a mask.

All revealed.

More in a week or so.

[Ratch]

Back on these: I've brushed some touch-ups then airbrushed with Klear.

[paul71]

looking good ratch

just a heads up on decals i made the F.2A (A55305) not so long a go and decals 40 and 38 were the wrong way around for position ( don't think i made a mistake cutting them out as i did them separate) just one to look at in case they are the same on this kit

paul

[Ratch]

Cheers Paul, mental note taken.

[Ratch]

just a heads up on decals i made the F.2A (A55305) not so long a go and decals 40 and 38 were the wrong way around for position ( don't think i made a mistake cutting them out as i did them separate) just one to look at in case they are the same on this kit

Stencils 38, 39 and 40 all look correct on my sheet.

[paul71]

just a heads up on decals i made the F.2A (A55305) not so long a go and decals 40 and 38 were the wrong way around for position ( don't think i made a mistake cutting them out as i did them separate) just one to look at in case they are the same on this kit

Stencils 38, 39 and 40 all look correct on my sheet.

good that you didn't have that problem, nothing worse than having to move some decals to a completely different position once you have put them on.

there is only a slight difference in length, just the F.2A kit they are wrong way round then.

 

 

 

[Ratch]

On this sheet 39 & 40 look identical and 38 is noticeably different (though all are tiny).

Putting all the stencils on may take some time.

[paul71]

It took me a few days to put them on,

experience has taught me that i should only do a few at a time and let them dry, found a few decals stuck on my fingers when i tried to do them all at once rage

[Ratch]

Always best to take your time.

[Pretty Mediocre Modeller]

I think it is great you get so many decals now to enhance the new kits. I just regret that so many go to waste when I do it these days as my dexterity isn’t so good.

I look at the new sheets and now long for the old days when they were more basic in 1/72nd scale kits. But it’s great for those who can. Makes their final effects so realistic.

Rod

 

 

 

 

Rod,

You shouldn't feel obliged to try and add all the decals if you don't want to, just put on the main ones and any others that you want to. Just because they are provided doesn't mean you have to use them!

 

 

Jason

[Ratch]

Yes guys, build your models the way you like. Do what makes you happy. This afternoon I've build the old Aurora Red Knight of Vienna - old skool done in a few hours. These will take a little longer,

XR728

XS927