paul71

an interesting build ratch, hope the ladder sorts your problem of been a tail sitter out.

Airfix is the main one with humbrol but i do have a few corgi models and I've bought a bit of Hornby as I'm helping my son build a model railway

the dark green was BS641 and in 1988 it was re numbered to BS241 and is slightly different in colour between the two, vallejo BS 241 dark green is BS dark green 71.324 this is a decent sight for colours and there numbers its where i got BS641 from there is a section on just lightnings, the part of colour number change is under tactical aircraft 1965-1995, lots of reading if you like that sort of thing. Aircraft Colors and Camouflage, Royal Air Force (Modern) - Resources - The World Wars.net look on Vallejo site under downloads look for historical colour reference guide and download it its where i got the Vallejo reference from

Doing the turrets for the Lancaster and used Tamiya extra thin cement quick setting on them, after building the front turret i noticed the clear part was missing its locating pin, so i tried to prise it apart to see how well the clear part and normal plastic part was stuck and no chance its really held the parts together and so far no fogging. And i do have a Lancaster kit i bought for spare parts.

oyster white is a new one to me, not seen an aircraft that colour before.

an interesting one randall looks like its still waiting for its paint job compared to the rest

thanks i have a few old mould kits waiting to do, i enjoy using a brush it can be a challenge at times to get a good result.

thanks Dominic, there was a lot of the smaller decals i didn't bother with but i do enjoy the challenge of putting them on at times

there is a bit of room on top but the height is restricted by the eves of the roof but should still be able to get built kits with wheels down on ok. as for the squares I've done a few trial's with things to see what i might be able to fit Tornado 1:48 scale fits in at an angle lancaster 1:72 scale will fit this way but I'm hoping once built it will go at a slight angle with the wings on. D-Day air assault diorama base fits nicely in the space.

I've gone for the kallax storage unit turned on its side as it will fit under the eves of the roof without coming too far into the room. layed this way its a 146.5 cm long 76.5 cm high and 39 cm deep, each square is 33.5 x 33.5 cm 39 cm deep. You can get an insert to fit into the square that has a glass shelf and door (i will get these at a later date) which was another point for me getting this. as you can see it has also given me some storage for my stash (just loosely shoved in for now) these were in boxes out of the way and i had forgotten about some of the kits i had.

After an ongoing discussion in another thread on how to display the larger bomber aircraft in a limited space, Dominic asked me to keep him informed on what i did to find solutions for it as space was limited by steep eves of the roof so i started this to keep things in one place and not take other threads in a different direction.

A simple model to make compared to the new ones, had to put it on a stand as a wheel well cover was missing for wheels down. The painting was done by brush and following the old style diagram was interesting The decals were a bit of a challenge but went on ok even if some were a bit big to fit in place

From the then and now set

I can do that Dominic to keep you posted on how it goes, I'm not a fast builder so it might be a few weeks before anything is built to go in it, but i must admit its got me thinking how i could display things now and i have gone to the expense and trouble to get it.

i like how this has turned out TDA.

A bit different from a kit, after a few conversations about where to put built bombers and not having much room Dominic asked me what my solution would be as it needed to fit under the eves of the roof as they slope steeply. I've taken a chance and got the KALLAX unit from ikea its layed on its side and fits nicely under the eves, each square is 33.5 X 33.5 cm and 38cm deep and you can get glass shelfs with a glass door to slide in to the individual squares if they turn out to still not fit in there I've at least got some space on top of it for some now

enjoying watching this ratch looks like there is plenty of detail in it, think i will be getting one at some point

A varnish will help protect once painted i would leave at least a day for the paint to cure, a gloss varnish is best for putting decals on it helps the film around the decal blend in see at the top of the main pages about putting decals on, then you can put a coat of varnish over it to get the finish you want gloss, matt or satin. at the moment i use humbrol clear found it to be good I've still not been able to find the floor polish that some people use (other people will be able to help point you in that direction), A few light coats of humdrol clear is better than one thick coat as its self levelling so it can pool in places if it goes on too thick, a problem I've had in very hot humid weather is that it can dry blotchy and white so i leave the varnish off till the temperatures have cooled down if it has happened usually another coat of varnish has sorted most of it out.

i brush paint and I've never primed a model yet but i do wash the sprues in warm soapy water just a little bit of washing up liquid and then rinse under a hot running tap dab excess water off and leave to air dry for around a day. I've used both acrylic and enamel on the same kit from humbrol, revell and vallejo not had a problem yet but i have heard that some people have had problems but if you don't try new and different things you don't know how it will go for you. As for using acrylic paints I've found them a lot better to use than enamel so always go to my acrylic colours first if i have the colour in both types i always give the pot a good stir or shake the bottle really well before using, when painting i have a small tub of water so i can keep cleaning the brush as i paint so i don't get any small dry bits off the brush when doing big areas and just dab off the excess water on a bit of toilet paper. if I'm going to mask over the paint to get some straight lines between different colours i will always leave the paint to dry at least 24hrs before i put any masking tape on the kit but I'm a slow builder so this suits me. i would say always try different things and see what works for you and keep practicing.

nice recovery there digger looking a lot better. I'm a bit higher than Notts not too far and last years high temperatures and humidity was a bit of a problem when building i use humbrol clear varnish and just didn't gloss anything till the temperatures and humidity came down, clear can go white when its humid or damp air I've not used Vallejo varnish yet.

its all done by machine all the parts are ejected as individuals the bit of sprue is even taken by machine and recycled but they are bigger robust parts, look on you tube there's a great video on making lego bricks, airfix have very small fine parts and would brake using that method.

You are probably right about that TDA but i would guess most people wouldn't know that name either so i think we would have to call it a bridge too far 😆 im a slow builder so it could take some time but you have got me thinking about it, i will see what tips i can get off you as you do yours👍

If i haven't got the scheme that comes with the kit i would build that but i do have aftermarket decals which i will get around to using at some point as i have bought extra spitfires hurricanes and Messerschmitt's and other planes to do them. This kit to me would be better called operation overlord as it then represents a point within the battle, but as people are more commonly to know it as D-day the title makes sense as a selling point for airfix, to some people D-day is just that first day of the battle to a lot of other people and that is the way its seems to be taught now is that D-day includes all of the D-day +++ and is not just a single day anymore. overall i like the kit and must get around to building it.

If you are going there you have to call in and see the BBMF its well worth the money and you get nice and close to them and see the ground crews working on them and just outside is where they park the typhoons. paul

How many people would have to be employed to remove the parts from the sprues and what would the cost of doing this be added onto each kit to cover there wages and work space, as for putting each stage in bags these very bags would be plastic waste them selves, and again there is wages space and the bags all adding to the cost of the kit, as for different colours for parts to id them wouldn't they need to be moulded separately all having there own waste and added costs of moulds and different colour plastic pellets and there storage all adding even more to a kit, this cost would dwarf what it would cost for us to send the few bits back. There are many firms out there making a profit recycling all sort of things you paying them to do it instead of them paying you just increases there profits ( a smart move by them), Carefully separating your junk properly MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE ( contaminated loads wont be rejected and sent to land fill or burnt) you might not see it or benefit it but our great grandkids will benefit from us trying to sort it now.