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Tour de Airfix

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  1. This afternoon I got to fit those circa 70 pieces of track to my CROMWELL tank. This is how I went about it: 1. Using a standard liquid cement, I glued the top and bottom pieces, including in this case, the string of 13 and 15 single tracks which I fixed to the top piece of track. 2. I left both pieces of track for about 30 minutes for the glue to take hold but not to let it harden solid. 3. I fitted the bottom track first, using the weight of the model to keep it in place and using the residual glue from the links to lightly bond this in place. With the tank sitting on the lower piece of track, II fitted the upper length, moulding the connected single links around the idler and sprocket wheels. I was then able to invert the model to apply glue to the two ends and secure them in place to complete the circle of track. 4. Once it looked OK from below, I flipped it back over and depressed the flexible upper track to sit nicely against the wheels. 5. I then repeated this process for the other side, such that by the time I had to return to the model the first track was sufficiently glued in place that it did not move as I flipped it over and around. I will now leave them to dry and harden off over night and can then touch up and add further weathering as required. I hope this helps ... 😊
  2. I’m just about to attempt this for the first time in years on my Airfix Churchill tank … will keep you posted! 😳
  3. Hey, @Ratch I’m just reading Bill Bellamy’s excellent account of being a Troop Leader and he talks of having to remove links on his tank as they stretch over the weeks of use. So it happened for real too 😉
  4. Yes! That would be a great idea 👍
  5. A few years ago I built Italeri’s Pegasus Bridge and their Horsa glider kits. Both sets came with what I thought were some really nice WW2 British paratroopers. I think they were originally Esci figures. I must still have a set of them in my stash, as there were far too many of them for me to use 😊 I had in my youth a set of Airfix’s 1:32 scale British paratroopers which I remember being quite excellent. What a shame I no longer have them 🤷‍♂️
  6. I’m not getting this new fad of Airfix and others for producing coins. What’s one supposed to do with them? If, for example, Airfix were to produce a stand for our models with a slot in which to place the coin then may be I’d see some sense in them. 🤷‍♂️
  7. Ratch, inspired by your build I’ve decided to give mine a go. Having recently picked up this Bill Bellamy’s story of life as Cromwell Tank Commander with 7th Armoured Division, as is my way, I’m ready to immerse myself into his world!
  8. I have personally never tried priming a whole kit first with a hairy stick/brush. I normally got away, in the dim and distant past and before I started using an airbrush, with giving the parts a good wash. Having found the primer to be generally thicker had always worried about losing some of the detail in the kit. Thinking about it, this would probably negate my approach of multiple very thin layers of paint. That said, one could always use a rattle can of primer paint. With care, this would quickly lay down a good adhesive surface for a nice bit of brush painting … just shows, there are many ways to skin this cat 😉
  9. Good point, my apologies. I’ve never used any non-water based acrylics and nor would I ever want to. I would imagine the majority of us wouldn’t go looking for them either, but it’s a very valid correction to make 👍 It was my error in replying as I at first just typed “use the manufacturer’s supplied thinner” but then thinking of Humbrol/Airfix’s paints, and as we’re mainly focussed here on Airfix, I modified my response to include “water” in that we don’t have an Airfix thinner and was concerned that would have opened a whole new can of worms to someone new to acrylics 😉
  10. Jon, as Acrylics are water based the most important lesson when painting on plastic, as our kits are, is to wash your kit first in detergent. This removed the residual oils from the surface that are left as part of the moulding process. The, from my experience, it depends is you are using a paint brush or air brush. My personal advice for starters would be: Paint Brush: Make sure the consistency of your paint is like that of single cream - not too thin, and not too thick. Use water or the paint company's thinner to thin if too thick. Paint at least 3 very thin coats, letting each dry to touch before applying he next. The first will look awful, the second marginally better and by the third you should get a good coverage. Paint colours differ, so you may get away with less coats or with some may even need more. Be patient. Leave your model 24 hours for the paint to cure before handling it, as you'll find it will easily scratch off even if dry to touch. Air Brush: Make sure the consistency of your paint is like that of milk - it needs to be thinner than brush painting. Use water or the paint company's thinner to thin if too thick. Apply a coat of primer before top coat. Not all recommend this, but I find the top coat adheres better and it means I need less of it. Leave your model 24 hours for the paint to cure before handling it, as you'll find it will easily scratch off even if dry to touch.
  11. I've been searching for a WW2 NAAFI Wagon kit for a diorama I've been working on but can't find one ... I think this would be an interesting subject and one which would fit well with the recent Austin K2/Y Ambulance.
  12. @Chris-548826 how did you approach this in the end? As you may have seen, I did go and paint mine 😊
  13. Airfix 1:72 D-Day Air Assault kit A50157A which I have built to interpret ALG. B5/Le Fresne-Camilly, Normandy, France, home of Typhoon MN625 MR-B of No.245 (Northern Rhodesian) Squadron, 121 Wing, 2nd TAF, June 1944. MN625 was flown by Fg.Off. W Smith who, on 10 June 1944, was made famous as being the first Allied pilot to land at one of the Advance Landing Ground (ALG) airfields in Normandy. This is how the Squadron’s Operations Record Book recorded it: “At 0520 hours eight aircraft with R.P. and two fighters airborne to attack reported position of H.Q. Panzer Division. Intense flak of all types was encountered but despite this and much cloud the target was located and successfully attacked. F/O W.Smith was hit by flak and reported excessive vibration and much oil on the windscreen. He was instructed by W/Cdr. Green (who was leading) to put down on the ALG at Banville (B3/Ste Croix-sur-Mer) east of Bayeux. This he did successfully. He was met by a swarm of photographers and high officers who informed him that he was the first pilot to make a wheels down landing in France since D-Day. Apparently this honour was being saved for Air Vice Marshal Broardhurst who arrived some time later in a Spitfire!” On 17th June, the Advance Landing Ground (ALG) B5/Le Fresne-Camilly was to be 245 Squadron’s new home. This was the fifth airfield to be established in the British and Canadian sector of the Normandy landings. Only about four miles inland from the invasion beaches, it had only recently been freed from shell-fire which had come from German units dug into surrounding woods. The wire mesh strip or Square-Mesh Track (SMT), which I've included in the diorama, served as a runway over 5,500 feet long and ran from north to south along the plateau. Surrounding orchards were used to give cover for maintenance hangars and as dispersal points for aircraft requiring servicing. The observant may notice that I’ve used my Airfix Club kit/decals in this diorama as the one provided with the D-Day Assault kit were for Squadron Leader Stapleton's Typhoon of 247 Squadron which took part in the September’s Operation 'Market Garden'/A Bridge Too Far rather than June’s Operation 'Overlord'/The Longest Day 😉
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