Fitting kadee couplings to pecketts and older pre nem sockets

[john adams1707819246]

I would like to fit Kadee couplings to my R3640 pecketts but have sure which one to use . Can anyone recommend what type I need please. Also a lot of my older hornby4 wheel wagons don't have a nem socket so I realise I will have to experiment with various couplings but in principle is it just a case of removing the old couplings and fitting a kadee gearbox and #5 directly to the underside of the wagons body?

Is it best to attach the kadee couplers with superglue or epoxy two part adhesive?

Thanks

[Bulleidboy]

Hi - I have not done this, but I have the parts. I use Kadees where I can, usually 17,18 and 19. I also bought a pack of sockets which I intend to "superglue" to whatever stock might require it. I also have a Kadee height gauge, which I think would be useful(?) - doing a dry fit would make sure the new socket and coupling would match a normal nem/kadee coupling.

We are obviously both thinking along the same linesgrinning Sorry could not be of more help.

[Topcat2018]

As most of my rolling stock has a combination of the original Triang-Hornby tension lock couplings or the progressively smaller versions thereof, I am always interested in something new.

The Kadee couplings can apparently be uncoupled individually using an electromagnet, but these look absolutely massive and I wouldn't even consider something that sticks out of the bottom of my baseboard, where everything possible is done on or just below the surface.

With regard to the permanent magnet uncouplers, do these simply uncouple anything that passes over them?

Any explanation welcome.

My present method of uncoupling consists of a small geared motor (I love these, so versatile) buried by the side of the track. This is connected to a cam buried between the rails that raises a metal leaf, which lifts the hooks of the couplings. A current pulse is sent to the motor using the same, low power, capacitor discharge unit that I use for my home-made points. Two stops limit the travel of the cam so no need for limit switches.

Consumes only 30 mA and can be connected by two strands of fine ribbon cable.

[Bulleidboy]

I have magnets (two) under the end of each line in the fiddle yard before the turntable - train comes into fiddle yard, uncouples, turned on the table, then runs down a track always kept free of stock. It can then be coupled to the train brought in or any other stock in the yard. I used two magnets per track, they are about 25mm x 10mm and are separated by a narrow strip of cork underlay. In an ideal world, I would have had the magnets a little longer so to allow some "wiggle" room. The train sometimes needs a little "back and forth" movement to break the coupling. I also have these magnets just over a tender loco's length from the buffers in the terminus. They are difficult to see (nothing sticking up), so marker of sorts helps.

Loose static grass has now been vacuumed upanguished

[ellocoloco]

@john adams

Kadee 5s in the gearbox can be fitted any number of ways. I would suggest having plasticard of various thicknesses and a height gauge as BB suggests. I have built up a base for the Kadee 5 below using plasticard then both screwed and glued it to the loco. What suits you best will depend on the loco or wagon you are fitting it too and if there is space for a screw. Kadees come in a variety of lengths with both over and underset heads so its worth having a selection on hand to see what is best for each item.

@TC

Kadees magnetic uncouplers work basically the same as tension lock uncoupling ramps. Stop on the uncoupler, release the tension and they uncouple. Best thing about Kadees though is once uncoupled you can push rolling stock without the coupler reengaging, so for shunting you would stop over the magnet, disengage the coupler then push wagons into a siding. The loco can then pull away.

[Topcat2018]

@Bulleidboy

Thanks for the photo. Uncoupling with permanent magnets sounds a bit of a fiddly process. I guess you have to be right there looking at the rolling stock when you do it.

[Bulleidboy]

HI TC - it can be fiddly, but my layout is only 10x7 so I can usually see clearly where to stop. As I said, occasionally a little back and forth movement is required - the loco always seems to go a little bit further than requiredface_with_rolling_eyes BB

[rpjallan]

I have Kadee NEM #19 couplings fitted to my Peckett. The Kadee height gauge is an absolute must in my opinion as are the adjusting pliers. Also something to be aware of is that the couplings can often droop in the NEM pockets. I jam a small piece of thin plasticard under the coupling to rectify this.

I use a combination of small round neodymium magnets under the track & Kadee between the rails magnets for uncoupling. Also, I have found the whisker couplers to be better than the #5's. Often I attach the box to the wagon, or whatever, with Milliput.