pendeenpete Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 I want to remove the wheels on the tender to enable the gears to be removed. There are what appear to be clips at either end of the baseplate, whatever way I try prising them nothing seems to move! This is the last of the Margate tenders, and it doesn't seem to behave in the same way as others on YouTube for instance.It has the tender trailing bogie held by a small circlip, I only managed to start deforming the plastic base plate, and then gave up. Very difficult for anyone to explain I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 The metal ringfield motor block is held in the plastic tender chassis frame by horizontal lugs at the very bottom of the front and rear faces of the block. The chassis frame is released by inserting a broad bladed screwdriver between the front of the block and the frame and gently prising them apart to release the front lug. Lift the front end of the block out of the frame and this will release the rear lug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pendeenpete Posted July 24, 2022 Author Share Posted July 24, 2022 The metal ringfield motor block is held in the plastic tender chassis frame by horizontal lugs at the very bottom of the front and rear faces of the block. The chassis frame is released by inserting a broad bladed screwdriver between the front of the block and the frame and gently prising them apart to release the front lug. Lift the front end of the block out of the frame and this will release the rear lug.Thanks, can't get that out either, but that doesn't release the wheels does it ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 Yes, the drive axles pass through the motor block. Try prising the block and frame apart underneath the overhanging rear face of the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pendeenpete Posted July 24, 2022 Author Share Posted July 24, 2022 Yes, the drive axles pass through the motor block. Try prising the block and frame apart underneath the overhanging rear face of the block.Will try when my courage returns, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted July 26, 2022 Share Posted July 26, 2022 Be careful, they're very difficult.I broke a chassis quite easily trying just that - was just a tender chassis without motor, so wasn't that important.Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Topcat2018 Posted July 26, 2022 Share Posted July 26, 2022 There seems to be a lot of confusion about removing the chassis from tender-drive locos. Mickhere had a query about an R380 School class.For reassembly I always thought that you put the back end in first and the front end in last because the front end has a curve or slope on the lug that allows it to slide in easily, and that dismantling would be the reverse procedure, but some people say it's the other way round.It would be interesting to know just how many different types of tender drive chassis there are and how to get them apart. I know that the Chinese-made tenders on locos such as A1s, A3s and A4s (and many others for all I know) can be a b*gger to get apart without chewing up the plastic underframe. Would be interested to know if there is a foolproof way of doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pendeenpete Posted July 26, 2022 Author Share Posted July 26, 2022 I was going to try, think I'll leave it until it's absolutely necessary, before I put the decoder in, I tried to shift it, wouldn't budge! Now there's lovely thin wires just waiting to leap off the decoder, not worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted July 26, 2022 Share Posted July 26, 2022 Don't touch that small circlip, which is probably a star washer. The only safe way to get those off is by cutting. The axle just clips in. To get the motor out, I use a thin bladed screwdriver at the back. When I converted mine to DCC I put the socket at the back there is just enough room. With a socket it means you can remove the decoder when decide to take it apart. Funny I sold my DCC converted motors on EBay as I found a way to put the later chassis in the loco body, I was surprised not many people were that interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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