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3d printed ideas


GMD

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Al, quite agree on the current motors but with the N20s and gearbox the motor is rotating at a much higher speed so will have additional inertia which should carry the loco over points and small bits of dirt. This one next to an X04 has a 100 to 1 gearbox and is a 12v version. These motors are an industry standard for car wing mirrors and the like and are consequently very cheap but reliable. The shaft is 3mm with a flat. Another advantage of the slow gearing is that they are extremely powerful.

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Another area I would love to see 3D printers develop is making replacement motorized chassis for Corgi trackside and Oxford Diecast and others 1/76 scale vehicles where possible, which are conpatible with Micro Scalextric and Minic Motorway.

Many Minic motorway vehicles are now over 50 years old some are 60, motor spares becoming harder to get, there is so much track about but nothing much or new to run on it. The same can be said for the old 12volt Micro Scalextric how many miles of track is laying in sheds, lofts and cupboards still very usable but nothing to run on it.

With a little research a number of todays diecast vehicles could become motorized for use on the 12volt Micro Scalextric and Minic Motorway track and or with model railway.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Having already purchased some 3d printed articles, it seems some savings can be made by DIY printing (but some volume needed to offset the outlay on a printer).

Some obvious applications would be to augment card buildings - eg chimney pots, window frames etc. Other accessories could include fencing, street lights, possibly even vehicles.

Being new to this, and before investing.

Some printers are available from £150. Is this a false economy, or actually a bargain? I accept that for TT scale we are in the realms of fine detail.

Some 3d print designs are available for OO, is it usually successful to downscale to 63% TT? I assume upscaling from N might be less successful as the starting detail in N might be lower of necessity. What experiences do members of the forum have?

The other possibility is to self-design using CAD software. Perhaps a little daunting! Something square, like window frames/overlays seem an obvious start. They could not be worse than trying to cut out window openings in paper. However paper is very thin, and a 3d rendition might be too thick?

I guess time investment reaps it's reward, but I hope to retire in the not too distant future, and this was the motivation to start in this hobby anyway.

So any advice offered would be helpful

Equipment - eg Ender?

Filament types / make?

Source of design files for rail modelling (TT or OO)

Design software (Sketchup / any others free to use)

Slicer software (Cura / any others?)

File format (STL)?

I appreciate the printing is just a start. Then we have potential assembly, painting, weathering etc


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Hello Robc058

I can only offer what I have done, it may not be useful as advice.

Printing services are available, I only need purchase the print, not the printer. This gave me the opportunity to experiment with the product output without a heavy up front investment in a printer or learning about that printer.

I decided to start at the deep end of the pool. For me, the value is in the intellectual property, to wit: the design. The first choice presented then was which tool. I selected "FreeCAD". It is extremely powerful. I've barely scratched the surface. The learning curve can be daunting.

Other CAD package recommendations are sure to come in, for example Solid Works.

FreeCAD is free. Zero cost. Everything resides on your computer. You can never be locked out of the system.

FreeCAD has been quite informative, as I struggle to set details, tolerances & etc, to create OO Planet. But I think this perfect to help clarify which printer I should use to capture details.

Here is an example. Planet used a 1 inch nut in places. If I was to scale that properly for OO, the nut would be 0.013" or 0.33mm. That is below 1 pixel for FDM, typically around 0.4mm. Forget hex or square nut, I will get a blob of plastic. This will be even harder in TT or N.

You are correct about scaling upwards. I purchased an N scale print of a tender, scaled up to OO and tweaked to fit a commercial motor boggie. The details, while satisfactory at N, suffered at OO. Your mileage may vary, and when the tender is whizzing by, details are barely visible.

Find my thread on OO Planet to see what FreeCAD can do.

Good luck and have fun!

Bee


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On the subject of scaling things down, I have been asked to produce N scale version of some of my models (6 wheeled tadpole) and a couple of others. The sad thing is things like W irons and brake rigging just becomes too small to be printed

On the subject of spare parts, Shapeways offer to print in various metals. I believe they use the lost wax process. This got me thinking about Mazak rot and drawing up a 3D print of the chassis block and printing it in either brass or bronze.

The only trouble would be the cost would probably be greater than sourcing another model hopefully without the problem.

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  • 1 month later...

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Above is my latest 3d print which is of a Stanton Sl*g Wagon (cant type it's full name hear as it contains a prohibited word).

These wagons were used to transport the waste material produced when smelting iron at the former Stanton and Staveley Iron works. It was inspired by the need to use several 9mm Romford disc wheels and give something for some of my small industrial locos to pull.

I still have some work to do like fitting a chain across the front of the hopper, grinding off the pinpoints from the axles and weathering further. I may also make some inserts for the wheels to make them look more like the prototype but they may be too thin to print.

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Thanks Bee,


The pin points have now gone! just a bout an hour filing and some trial and error until I got the axles the right length and the back to back right.

I am now waiting for some split pins to hold some chain in place so once I have fitted them I'll take a few more photos

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  • 1 month later...

After experiencing a great deal of difficulty obtaining the split pins (the type used to secure Smiths and Cambrian 3 link couplings) I have now virtually finished my Stanton Sl@G Ladle wagon (currently waiting to see if some wheel inserts print successfully). So here are three views as promised.

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Making them tip was the original intention but the weight of the chain means they wont sit level. Although I managed to counterbalance the pulley by making the opposite side wall thicker, any more and I think it will become noticeable.

Also the NEM pocket covers about half of the circular aperture which the chains would have to pass through to make it happen, so I doubt if I will take this further for the time being.

Having said that the hopper is a separate part linked to the chassis via a bent rod which needs to be removed to build the kit. So someone could have a go if they could get some finer chain which would still be strong enough.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I have just bit the bullet and ordered a free cad software DVD.

Having seen both 81F and Bee's work over the last few months, I thought I might as well give it ago, I have not got any experience with cad or a lot of computer programs, being a gardener by trade, computers are not a lot of help in doing my type of work. It will give me something to do over Christmas trying to learn something new.

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Tony, as Bee has mentioned before, you can download Freecad surprisingly for free! I am used to 2D industry standard Autodesk CAD software so trying to use Freecad is a bit confusing for me as the commands are different although it is a massively powerful product and I need to spend more time with it (if I ever get any!). There are some excellent free tutorial videos online for Freecad.

There are also lots of free 3D files for OO models already available, either at 4mm scale or 100% scale that need scaling down to the right size. The problem I have found is getting someone to print them. All the people who have been recommended have either not replied or have never actually got round to doing it. I think 3D printing is going to be the way forward for a lot of modelling, why Hornby aren’t involved is beyond me.

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I thought I’d add that perfect for the Ladle Wagons is a free downloadable 3D file for a Steelman diesel shunter loco. (Rolls Royce?) unpowered but it’s up to you to find the right powered chassis! Drawn at 100% and printable at any scale, easily findable through your favourite search engine.

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Well I have just bit the bullet and ordered a free cad software DVD.

 

 

Hi Tony

Everyone goes through a similar learning curve.

What I did was to try a few of the online tutorials at first, where the step by step process is illustrated.

Next I set myself a task, to make a buffer adaptor, such that Lion could propell a few chaldrons around. My goodness. 4 rectangular blocks and some threaded rods to tie it together. It was a struggle, primarily because there was no one to hold my hand. It took forever. I was quite proud when finished.

Nowadays, that buffer adaptor would be quite simple, taking less than an hour from start to finish.

It is unclear if you have selected "FreeCAD" or just some CAD software that is free. If you have selected "FreeCAD", I can help!

The first few projects are the hardest. Stick with it.

You can do this!!

Bee

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I have just ordered Hornby's 0-6-0 Sentinel "Stanton 57" Although listed as NCB green I have seen pictures of it shunting the wagons carrying the molten steel at Stanton and Staveley's works. Sadly I cannot seem to find scale drawings of these wagons as I would like to make them.

However, my next project (If I can get drawings or successfully scale from photos is likely to be an LNWR Prince of Wales 4-6-0 for an old type Hornby B12 Chassis buit with the small open framed motor in an adapter.



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Hi Bee

I did buy a FreeCAD Design 2D and 3D Modelling Suite DVD it only cost 7 pounds, in needs to be on a DVD as it is for a stand alone non internet connected computer running Vista which if Farther Christmas is nice to me could be connected to a small 3D printer. ( which I am currently watching on ebay at present)

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Tony

If I might offer a line of thought.

Mastery of a 3D printer will have little value without mastery of the thing that feeds it.

The thing that feeds the printer is the intellectual property, the 3D design.

A 3D design can always be printed by Shapeways (or others), once the design is made.

May I suggest you play with and master the design tool first.

Bee

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If you win the printer there is nothing to stop you downloading some of the free files available on the internet on various sites and printing them to get used to using the printer. Many of these files have been verified as working so at least you will know what you should be producing and be able to make any adjustments that are needed. There are lots of OO models available, some better than others!

I have noticed that some that were free are now charging a nominal fee to download, just a pound or two. The working files would also be a good place to start for modifications and to get used to working with the technology.

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  • 2 months later...

My latest print is a GVT 1T slate wagon which I have been working on for about 3 years on an off. My initial attempts in various plastics were too light and/or fragile. However, I eventually made some minor changes so that it could be printed in bronze. The image below is that digital preview but is actually very accurate although the finish is a bit shinier. Unfortunately it took three attempts in bronze before I could get the wheels (PECO N gauge and 009 couplings to clip into the body. However, the move to bronze has resulted in a nice heavy wagon that does not derail at the slightest provocation. However, I still need to test it through my 9" points in the coal yard!

Currently it is sat in a solution of "Liver of Sulfur" which is turning it a nice dark brown.

I also have a flat wagon and a 1T open wagon based on the same chassis ready to order once I have enough to make postage and handling viable. Other items based on the same chassis will be a tar tank wagon and a bolster wagon.

Perhaps I should also add that the length of the casting is fractionally under 1 inch.

 

GVT Slate Wagon.jpg

Edited by 81F
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