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1/48 Buccaneer S.2B Build Review


Ratch

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I have washed the runners in soapy water and left them to dry. My limited research and examination of the instructions, coupled with a desire to model something a little different to the S.2C I reviewed in 2022, led me down this path. Option D’s Desert Pink scheme requires mixing paint (which I don’t do, and I don’t have those colours). I could buy paint, but Vallejo Desert Pink is currently out of stock at my supplier, so that eliminated that option. The paint scheme of option C is tempting, but configuration is very similar to my previous build. Option A is fine with the wrap-around camouflage, but I’m drawn to option B without the refuelling probe and with a traditional bomb load. I’m thinking f having the aircraft grounded, so 15g of nose-weight is required, I shall fit the crew ladders, the engine will be exposed, wings folded, airbrakes open, bomb bay open, canopy open, F.O.D. guards fitted, and bombs loaded. I cannot find reference pictures of the kit scheme, so mine will have some alterations to match the picture I have of XW544 at Luqa, 23rd May 1975. That’s the plan.

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I drilled the holes necessary for the payload selected using a pin vice. In my opinion it is not imperative to stick to hard and fast rules. Each little step or stage must be worked out for your own skill set. It may be best to paint some things before assembly, during assembly, or after construction. What works for me may not work for you, and vice versa.

I started assembly with the construction of the two Mk.6 Martin Baker ejection seats. My seats were marked F & B in marker pen underneath. 

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It is indicated that the handle on the left-hand side of the rear seat should be painted green. I did this, but the front seat has the same part moulded but the green instruction is omitted. I don’t know if this is correct or an error, and without specialist knowledge I have carried out the advice on the sheet. 

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The light grey areas were washed with Vallejo Game Color 73201 Black Wash and the black areas were dry brushed with Vallejo Model Color 70864 178 Natural Steel.

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The seats were brushed with Humbrol Clear in preparation for the decals. As I am not using the crew figures they will retire to my spares box. I added the instrument panel to the rear of the pilot's seat.

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Referring to page 7, I applied the decals to the instrument panel. The nose gear bay is fixed under the cockpit tub. The consoles are detailed with individual panel that slot into moulded depressions.

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The construction of the cockpit is carried out over the first 31 steps. I had difficulty fitting the crew on my previous build, but it won’t be a problem this time. I’ve been picking out instruments with a fine pointed brush.

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The seats are not yet fixed.

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More painting and decals to apply.

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I had applied the instrument decals to the various parts. 

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I intend to have this aircraft grounded. 

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A sleeve is provided in three parts. It is advised to insert 15 grammes of nose weight before closing it up. I used my aquatic plant weight (I weighed out 15g and topped up with liquid gravity for a little extra), although your choice of weight may differ. 

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As I will use the boarding ladders, I have drilled the appropriate holes in the nose moulding. The constituent parts of the cockpit were assembled then joined with the nose sections. 

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The fit is excellent with a positive ‘click’ as the tub joins the walls.

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The pilot’s coaming has been inserted. I added the gunsight then painted the coaming. 

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Jumping ahead, I cut out the engine inspection cover. Yes all those holes were drilled out.

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Then cut out. The following stages involve the painting and assembly of the jet pipe trunking. Three bulkheads are fitted to the trunking framework. This strengthens the assembly and provides surface detail for the inner walls of the main gear bays. 

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The intake trunking is formed of a similar cross-brace construction with two circular alignment pins, like the earlier assembly. The port engine is made up in two halves and fitted between the forward bulkhead and the intake trunks. Detail painting is necessary before assembly.

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This is a dry-fit, nothing is glued.

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As I plan to display the engine, some detail parts were added, and I gave the engine and wheel wells a black wash. 

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The curved plastic ‘MASK’ piece can be used to check the cut in the fuselage and will be used to protect the engine during the main paintwork on the exterior of the model. 

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A side wall is fitted under the fuselage where the hatch will fit.

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We then return to the fuselage assembly. the fuselage halves are then joined only if you are folding the wings, where you are advised not to glue the aft bulkhead as it will help with alignment of the two halves. The folded option involves inserting ribs into the wing roots that have spikes projecting from the top to receive the outer wing panels. Assembly of the wings follows. The fifth vortex generator must be removed from each wing. Step 53 offers normal and clipped wing tips. The shorter wings were fitted after 1983 to reduce wing loading and fatigue experienced with low level operations. XW544 retained the long wings, and I have fitted those tips.

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Two locating holes must be opened in each side of the fin, and an aft bulkhead inserted during closure. The tail-hook fillet sits nicely into the recess in the underside.

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The tail and the nose can then be fixed to the main fuselage assembly.

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The intake trunkings are slotted over the pipes. They are tipped with a handed collar. 

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The exhausts are constructed in a similar fashion with inner and outer sleeves.  

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I have smeared some filler into the joints. I have the inboard flaps lowered. Steps 81 and 82 repeat the flap-sections from steps 53 and 54. Construction continues with the T-tail, with separately moulded upper and lower halves, mated with the circular locating tabs. This is then glued onto the tail fin. The fairing above is another two-part subassembly, with alternatives for the variants. This goes for the forward and rear bullet fairings. 

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The elevators, and rudder panel are individual parts, which can be deflected if required. 

This kit offers the option to fit the split tail cone that acts as the airbrake. For the open option stages 95 to 99 must be followed. I build these stages and omit the closed airbrake option. I think it will be best to fit this after the main paintwork and set it aside.

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It doesn’t look like I’ve done much today, but I did fix the panel and aerials forward of the rotating bomb bay. Another panel was fixed aft of the bomb bay along with the arrester hook. Various other aerials were fixed. I have assembled the wheels and started painting them. 

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The 1,000lb bombs are assembled, ready for spraying. 

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The boarding ladders are assembled and dry fitted while the glue sets.

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I used Blu-Tack to hold the engine A blast-shield is placed between the two crew positions. A choice of two windscreens is provided in case you wish to fit an aftermarket Photo-Etch (PE) wiper (not included) for the detail upgrader. Likewise, two canopies are provided, one with a detonator cord and a plain canopy. XW544 requires the plain canopy. 

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Looking through my spares, I had saved many parts from my previous build and have them as back up in case anything goes wrong. I hand brushed the interior colour and seals on the canopy sections prior to masking. I dipped the transparencies in Klear for protection. I also brushed Klear on the undercarriage struts, ready for the decals.

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Although I will not use them for this build, I did make up the alternative ordnance, beginning with the Sea Eagle missiles. 

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The pylons are specific, so I’ve merely noted them before adding them to my spares. The bombs are already made up so I assembled the tanks and marked them.

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I made up the remaining weapons and started painting them. I like to keep the extra ordnance provided for spares as you never know when they may come in handy. I am also painting the crew figures and they will go into spares too. 

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I masked the canopy sections and fixed the windscreen with G-S Hypo Cement. The main canopy is tacked on with PVA so I can reposition it later.

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Great work so far. Thanks for the progress report and pictures. Looking forward to seeing it finished.

I’ve recently bought this kit to add to the stash, when I get round to building it, I’m going to have it as XW530 which used to be on display at Buccaneer Garage at Elgin, Scotland.

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I have sprayed the underside colour, not forgetting the undercarriage doors and pylons. I then masked and sprayed the bomb bay.

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This was followed by the upper surfaces including the wings and airbrake.

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Checking my reference pictures of XW544, I will need the fuel tanks. This is not part of the load-out on the instruction sheet, and I had missed their requirement. There was therefore some catching up to do on the paint scheme, starting with Vallejo Model Air 71051 Barley Grey on their lower surfaces. I then airbrushed the 1000lb bombs with Vallejo Model Air 71011 Tank Green. 

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I started masking the disruptive camouflage pattern with Blu-tack sausages, filled with masking tape.

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I airbrushed Vallejo Model Air 71019 Camouflage Dark Green as the disruptive colour. 

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After removing the masking, I discovered that the leading blade aerial was lost, so replaced it with some scrap plastic sheet, cut to size. 

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I brush painted touch-ups. 

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Hand brushed the wing leading edges in silver. 

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Pick out blade aerials with Humbrol 121. Pick out gunmetal exhaust plates and the navigation light reflector.

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I fitted the air brake. 

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No pylons were fitted on the image I have, so I filled the locating holes on the outer wings. I had to re-spray the under sides of the outer wings and the engine hatch, which I had missed. 

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When doing the undersurfaces, I lined up the demarcation line with the airbrake to ensure that they matched.

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I have sprayed the disruptive area on the hatch.

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I like the way the weapons are labelled as it is a great help for those (like me) who lack the knowledge. Everything is clearly identified in steps 135 to 151. I have opted for 2 x ‘slipper’ Fuel Tanks, imitating the specific photo of the aircraft I have chosen. This shows that, while the instructions are very useful, other configurations may be valid and your own personal research may discover something that meets your personal modelling requirements. Before the load is attached decals must be applied.

Everything was then sprayed with Klear for the best surface to apply transfers on. 

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Application of the decals has started.

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As you can see, the markings differ from the instructions.

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I am copying a picture from 1975, but not all the markings can be seen.

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So I've applied best logic to which markings may have been carried.

A full set of stencils is provided. For the meticulous this is essential to the finish of the aircraft. For the casual builder they may be unnecessary. Many are so small that those with failing eyesight will struggle to determine which is the correct orientation for them. Whether to apply all, some, or none of them is down to the individual and how they wish to finish their model. At least there is the choice for all modellers.

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Do you think I have enough ordnance? Well, I just lost one to the Carpet Monster; luckily, I have eight spares, so enough for the load plus a few remaining. I applied the decals to the 1,000lb bombs using DecalFix. I then had a session stencilling. I find it saps my concentration and so break these sessions into bitesize chunks.

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My final stencilling session today. I got them all down (apart from a couple that swam away). 

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The good news is that the lost bomb was regurgitated by the Carpet Monster. I also matted the crew, which will go into spares.

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