Saul Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 I have a train from my youth which I am trying to DCC fit for my son. It runs well in DC. The train is this one http://www.hornbyguide.com/item_year_details.asp?itemyearid=3231 and i think the motor is http://www.hornbyguide.com/service_sheet_details.asp?sheetid=144 What's confusing me is that there are only pickups on one side of the wheels and only one wire visible to the motor, presumably the motor housing and chassis are the other part of the circuit? The wiring is basic http://www.evernote.com/shard/s85/sh/9a9618a8-e8c5-4031-841b-1659f4ba4825/68eb58828b430d9d062a294991dd6e04 Not sure where to wire in the R8249 controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poliss Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 The live chassis design seems similar to the ones shown on these guides. http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Hornby/0-4-0_Tank/hornby_Triang_0_4_0_tank_locomotive.htm http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Hornby/Sir_Dinadad_2-6-0/Hornby%20Sir%20Dinidad%202-6-0.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beejack Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 Ok the wiring part is easy, but I'm not sure whether the R8249 is the best decoder as this motor may need more current than the chip can handle. Also you have a smoke unit which I believe will need to be connected to one of the function outputs and again may need more current than the R8249 can supply. I'm sure someone can point you in the right direction for a suitable chip. As for the wiring: To wire any chip to this loco you first need to insulate both brushes from the brush spring. You already have one side insulated the same needs to happen to the opposite side. If you have spare or old brushes the top bit is the best part to use to reconnect the supply as it will match the way it is connected on the insulated side of the motor. 1. The wire connected to the brush needs to be connected to the red wire on the decoder. 2. Another wire connected to the chassis needs to connected to the black wire, as it appears that the there is a chassis connection near the smoke unit this would be an ideal place to connect it. 3. The orange and grey wires then connect to the brushes, but you must ensure that they are insulated from the brush spring or 15v ac will be sent up the 12v dc side of the chip circuit and burnt it out! 4. make sure there are no capacitors or any other connection made and test. I'm sure others will be able to give you more info on whether the chip will work and whether the smoke unit can be connected and used, if still working! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 beejack has it pretty right for you. The easiest place to connect to the chassis is the lug under the back of the motor. If you want a longer description, do a DCC Forum search on X04 and you'll find a couple from me on pages 2 and 3. And you definitely cannot use the 8249 as this motor draws too much current. You'll have to use the Sapphire or another brand. You might also consider replacing the magnet with a neo magnet as it is very likely to have lost its strength by now, causing the motor to draw even more current. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul Posted September 21, 2013 Author Share Posted September 21, 2013 Wired as per beejacks post and using the helpful links from poliss and working well with the 8249 dcc unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 Well done Saul. Once you understand it is a simple matter of isolating the motor connections from chassis, attaching orange and grey to them, then attaching pickups to red and black, it's a pretty simple process. The ones to watch out for are some of the older Ringfields where the left hand connection has a retaining screw going to chassis. This has to be isolated by using a plastic screw or plastic plug in the hole. But you really must be careful given you've used the 8249. It must be operating very close to its current limit and may well go over if it stalls for any reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 Did a Wrenn 0-6-2 using a similar method and am about to do one of the older Fowler 2-6-4 chassis with the same motor. The only thing I would add is that I used shrink sleeve to cover both legs of the brush springs (and replaced the original fabric one) as these can slide off if you handle the motor. Not a problem before the chip is fitted -you just get a short but afterwards you just fry your chip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.