Street and platform lights

[integrator]

I decided to brighten up my new layout with lots of platform lights and street lights. However, I am having problems getting them all to come on at the same time. First platform has 8 lights and connected to the bus works OK. Second platform of 8 lights

 

when connected to the same bus come on OK for about 10 seconds and then both sets goes off. I am using the 12v 4amp transformer from Hornby P9300W so should have enough power. I would like to place many more lights on the track but need some guidance or tips

 

on how to wire them up from an auxiliary power supply.

[pidder]

What type of bulb? LEDs use much less wattage if you want a lot of lamps. They're lower voltage so need a series resistor or a series/parallel arrangement.

[integrator]

magfan said:

id check the 8 lights on your second platform ,could there be a faulty one causing a short circuit,
switch off the 12 working ones and connect the eight , does one seem brighter or dimmer perhaps,
do you know the wattage

of the lamps,

[integrator]

I bought the lights from On-Tracks http://www.ontracks.co.uk/index.php?page=product&prodID=185304 who say “These lights come with two miniature long life LEDs and are wired ready for connecting to a 12volt outlet of a suitable power supply”. I bought three

 

packs totalling 30 lights. All the lights are working and connected via a parallel circuit, but when turned on, they only come on for a few seconds and then go off. I then turn off the transformer and have to wait a few minutes before turning on again and

 

the same happens again? Do I need resistors somewhere in the circuit?

[koo9]

From my experience, the lamps have one wire drawn through the tube and the post is the other and they give two connections at the bottom. You can check that usung a meter. I don't believe that there is a resistor fitted. It seems that they are causing

 

a short and your transformer is using its thermal cutout as it heats up. Wire up several with a resistor on each lamp and try again.

[integrator]

magfan said:

I think one or more lights are causing a short
could it be where the wires come out of the post, maybe some insulation lacquer applied over the existing insulation ,try to feel the lamps when on and see if there is a hotspot

on one or more of the lamps ,ideally you need an ammeter in the circuit ,a multimeter may have a current setting, and measure the current flowing in the circuit

[integrator]

Just thought I would let you all know that I received very good guidance from Brian Lambert which solved my problem after following his recommendation below:

Hi Vic

LEDs don't get hot just very, very slightly warm, but never hot. Can you send me

 

full details of the lamps with any links to web sites if purchased via the web.

I would suspect if they are hot to touch they are filament lamps.

If so you will have to assume approx. 60 to 80 milliamp per lit lamp.

Therefore 12 lamps lit would be

 

960milliamp or virtually 1.0Amp.

 

If you're using the 15 volt dc auxiliary output of the Select then 12 lit lamps would be nearing its total maximum rating which is 1.0Amp. even though a 4.0Amp. power supply is being used. Your 16 lamps (8 plus 8) would

 

consume approx. 1.28Amp. and they EXCEED the internal overload device inside the Select causing it to turn off the 15 volt Aux output as the load is exceeding its available power 3.0 Amp to track - DCC power and 1.0Amp allocated for auxiliary items.

 

Your

 

best option IMO is to use the 4.0Amp power supply on its own, not connected to the Select. You may want to obtain a matching in-line socket to the power supplies low voltage plug - I would recommend you take the power unit to somewhere like Maplins who should

 

be able to supply a matching socket. You then need to solder two suitable wires to the new socket and take then to the lights. Central pin is positive if its any help. Example of in line dc sockets…. http://www.maplin.co.uk/dc-power-line-sockets-43091

 

I

 

would also highly recommend you divide the 4.0 Amp supplies output up into three or more sub circuit supplies, each protected by its own overload device. I like to use the Maplin 1.0Amp self resetting circuit breakers. Example.. http://www.maplin.co.uk/auto-reset-circuit-breakers-493

 

These are wired into one lead (Ideally the positive) from the power supply and each circuit breakers other connection tag feeds a sub circuit. So any fault in one circuit only causes its own circuit breaker to trip. Leaving everything else still working. Each

 

CB also ensures the power supply unit cannot be accidentally overloaded.

 

I would then divide you lamps into two circuits of 8 lamps per circuit. Each protected by its own 1.0Amp circuit breaker. As per the drawing attached.

You can if wished add

 

a simple On/Off switch after each CB output and before the first lamp, so as you can separately switch On/Off that group of lamps.

 

I have attached a simple wiring plan showing what I mean. Note: The On / Off switches are not shown to aid drawing clarity.

 

You need to ensure the red and black wires from the Power unit are capable of handling 4.0Amp minimum

 

All the best

Brian

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Brian

I am using RailMaster with eLink for the track and want to keep this

separate which works

 

OK.

 

So I am using 4.0amp just to power the lamps from the Select 15 volt dc

auxiliary output. The supplier says they are all LED, but they do get hot?

 

Hope this helps

Vic