Dcc conversion guides for multiple locos

[sven8t4]

Hi all

 

Im after the guides for converting the following locos

 

Class 29 with an R317 070 motor

Class 110 dmu R369 R317 070 motor

Class 47 R060 D1520

Class 47 47421

Class 40 40066

Class 37 37130

Princess Elizabeth circa 1994

 

tender drive

 

any help would be greatly appreciated Ive looked on the net but there seems to be quite a bit of contradiction or links with missing pictures....

 

Cheers Steve

[brando]

Hi have you tried Hornby support ?

[Fishmanoz]

The principle for all is very simple. Remove existing wiring to the motor, discard suppression components if you wish, ensure motor connections are not connected to chassis, then connect decoder red and black to the pickups (if only one pickup, the other

 

will be via the chassis, so decoder red to the pickup and black to the chassis), then decoder orange and grey go to the motor connections. If the loco has directional lighting, connect forward lights to the white wire and reverse to the yellow with blue as

 

the common return.

 

Bromsgrove models site includes conversion detail for many locos. And there are guides for a number of Hornby locos in the DCC section of this site and heaps in the forums too. In fact, look up Son of Triangman and you'll find excellent

 

advice with pictures going back over 2 years at least. His advice on how to isolate Ringfield types with the left hand brush connection needing to be isolated from the chassis is particularly good.

[Fishmanoz]

You can buy a plastic screw to make this conversion simple. They can be sourced from Norfolk Coast Models for one. See again my suggestion of checking out SoT's posts for detailed instructions with pictures going back at least some months.

[AustWhite]

I know this is quite old.  Sorry to resurrect it, but I am having issues and have a locomotive the same as one you have listed.

How did you go the the R060 Class 47 conversion?

I have one of these and it seems to have a direct connection from one pole of the motor to the wheels on the bogie that do not have the traction tyres (traction tyres are fitted on two wheels just on one side of this model).

I can't seem to find an easy way to isolate that side of the motor.

[96RAF]

As stated above the left hand brush on the motor is live to the chassis (motor housing).

There are 2 obvious ways this is achieved.

1. The screw holding the left hand brush goes into the motor housing making the circuit. This is where you replace the metal screw with a plastic/nylon one to isolate the brush tag from the housing.

 

2. The brush tag bears on a peg on the housing. This can be isolated by use of a piece of plastic between the teo, filing it off, fitting a sleeve over the peg.

 

There is another version of the ringfield style motor that needs special treatment by use of insulated top-hat bushes around the motor brushes and there are kits available to do this.

 

Search the net for Brian Lambert Ringfield conversion for more information in addition to that linked to previously.

[ColinB]

I do mine in a different way. Rather than trying to screw a parallel thread nylon screw into a self tapped hole (which is asking for trouble) I tap both holes out with a 3 mm tap, and then use 3mm nylon screws for both brush holders. That way you don't have to worry about mixing them up when you put it back together, and it is a neater solution. On the very late motors with the thick brush base plate, I found you can tap out the plastic with 3mm tap and use short laptop screws. The other thing that I found was incredibly important is to add extra pickups to all the wheels.

[96RAF]

I know this is quite old.  Sorry to resurrect it, but I am having issues and have a locomotive the same as one you have listed.

How did you go with the R060 Class 47 conversion?

 

Given the OP only ever made 2 posts way back in 2014 I reckon you may not get a direct answer from him. However current advice is provided.