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Railmaster Evaluation version


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  • 9 years later...

Have you at any time in the past, installed a copy of RailMaster onto this particular PC hardware. Even if you uninstalled it without using it, the PC hardware will have been logged against the installation on the HRMS servers. HRMS (the RailMaster software developers) implement quite aggressive 'license key' and 90 day evaluation period monitoring policing.

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When you install an evaluation copy of RM, even if you don't activate it. The RM installer communicates with the HRMS servers and logs your PC hardware. We think it is logging the 'PC Motherboard' serial number, but this is not 100% confirmed.

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So if you uninstall the RM application even after just a few minutes, then go to install it again after 90 days. The hardware to server check will reveal that RM had previously been installed on that particular PC hardware at some point prior to the 90 days evaluation period. Thus it throws up the 'evaluation period has expired' message.

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The policing is not monitoring 90 days worth of use, it is monitoring the time that has expired between the last monitored installation and the current date regardless of whether RM has actually been used during that time frame period or not.

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If you have genuinely never installed RM on this particular PC platform at any time before, then I suggest you raise this error with HRMS via email support@rail-master.com

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TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

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See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

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Thank you, I will need quite a bit of help getting this all working!

I have never had the trial software before and only got the Elite yesterday.

So far only 395004 works but the lights do not, yes I have checked CV29 and the class 101 just creeps along and stops!!

 

I have emailed Railmaster as suggested, thank you

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Most decoders need to have 128 speed steps enabled in CV29 for directional lights to function.

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On-line CV29 Calculator

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Also ... have you actually switched the lights 'ON' by sending an F0 command from the Elite?

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Have you purchased the RailMaster 'activation key' as a second-hand RailMaster CD purchase. If you did and the 'key' has already been previously activated, then activation will fail as the 'key' is not transferable from one 'user' to another.

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There isn't much I can do to assist you with RailMaster until you have got past this 90 day evaluation period has expired message. Normally, when the 90 day evaluation period has expired. Although RM won't start up, it should open the page asking you to 'Activate it' with a valid key.

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Once you get to the stage where RM opens. I have a wealth of experience and knowledge with regard to setting RM up. So as long as your 'How do I' questions are clearly articulated as to exactly what you are trying to do ... I can probably help.

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Thanks for your help, I just had to wait my newbie limit of 2 posts a day in case I spam. The 24 hours are up!

For Railmaster, I downloaded it from the Hornby website onto a laptop that has never had it on before. I have never had DCC or Railmaster before. I have emailed them with screenshots which should help.

I have Elite on version 1.45, which is now connected to the 1st section of my railway.

I managed to get the Hornby class 101 running. It was as simple as dirty wheels, which were not an issue on DC but stopped DCC operation.

395.004 is being a right pain. I have set it up with a R8249 decoder. It ran when I put it on the tracks, but the lights on the power car did not work. I have given it address 0395. CV29 are set as: -

Direction bit 0 = Normal

Function bit 1 = Sp&Dir

Power bit 2 = DCC only

Rail com  bit 3 = off

Speed bit 4 – not changed

Address bit 5 = short (I did try long)

Decoder bit 6 = Multi

I tried all of the function buttons whilst running and nothing happened until I pressed Function 0 then it stopped dead and has refused to move ever since! The dummy car lights are all on and buzz.

 

Questions: -

Is it correct to wrap the chip in insulation tape – I worry about damaging it?

Next I am doing DCC ready Hornby 71000. Is there space for a sound coder or is it too tight to fit?

I also have a Bachman MPV and a Dapol class 52 with 21 pin chips. I read that Hornby has issues with other chips but ones from Gaugemaster and DCC concepts are OK with Elite. I was going to try a Gaugemaster 21-pin chip and a capacitor to see how it goes.

I have 60+ chips to install, plus any new stuff I buy. Some are very old, some have dual motors, a challenge!!  I’ll then move onto points, accessories, signalling etc. Should keep me going a while!

 

Is this the right thread for me to ask or should I start a new one?

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Is this the right thread for me to ask or should I start a new one?

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In principle raise a new thread for each general topic and lump similar items together in appropriate posts. For example:

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Questions relating to physical decoder installation in locos should be lumped together and posted in the 'Hornby DCC' forum.

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Questions relating to signal and point control should also be in the 'Hornby DCC' forum if the intention is to operate them via DCC, but not necessarily the same topic thread as loco decoder fitting questions. They should be separated each in their own question post. If the intention is to operate signals and points using traditional DC Analogue techniques, then the questions should go in the 'General Discussion' forum instead.

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Questions relating to RailMaster control should be raised in the 'RailMaster' forum.

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Anything that is not either specifically relating to DCC control or RailMaster should be posted in the 'General Discussion' forum. Scenery and non DCC powered accessories for example.

 

Basically just apply a little bit of common sense regarding distributing questions to appropriate and meaningful thread topic titles.

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What does not work very well is when one lumps together a flood of mismatched and mixed questions all in one single post. The issue with that shotgun approach is that it puts some people off answering the bits they can answer as trying to separate out the different topics gets more onerous.

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It is a difficult judgement call to make. But by separating your questions out to different posted threads. Each question can be focused on individually and receive the attention of the members best placed with their knowledge to answer it. However, there may also be situations where the multiple issues have the same common cause, in which case seeing all the issues raised in one post can give clues to a solution. As I said, it is somewhat difficult to give 'hard n fast' guidelines as it depends on the issues being raised and their cause.

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With regard the flood of multiple questions in this specific post.

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You wrote:

"It was as simple as dirty wheels, which were not an issue on DC but stopped DCC operation."

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Now this and the general phrasing of your post infers that your layout was originally DC Analogue and is being upgraded to DCC Digital. Just be aware that if this inference is correct and your layout was originally Analogue, then that would also infer that your track power connectors may still be the original DC Analogue ones [either R8206 or R602, this includes R8201 link wires].

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These analogue power connectors are very detrimental to DCC Digital signals and will corrupt them, causing all sorts of strange things to happen.

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The R8206 / R602 / R8201 connectors need to be replaced with R8241 or R8242 DCC Digital versions OR modified to make them DCC friendly. The modification involves opening up the covers and removing any Analogue suppression capacitors that are found. The picture below shows you what is required in the modification.

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If you do have these Analogue components currently in circuit, then removing them and making the power distribution DCC friendly might possibly resolve some of the other multiple issues you have raised in this post.

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395.004 is being a right pain. I have set it up with a R8249 decoder. It ran when I put it on the tracks, but the lights on the power car did not work. I have given it address 0395.

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I really do suggest that you do not try to run before you can walk. Long addresses [0395 is a long address] can be troublesome for a newbie. I strongly suggest that you write 8 to CV8 to factory reset the decoder. This should revert the 0395 address back to the default short address 03.

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Then test your loco using the 03 address to get used to it and fully test the loco features to ensure that they all work.

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Then and only then put your toe in the water to change the 03 address to another short address of your choosing. A short address is an address between 01 and 127. Then get used to how the loco operates on that new address.

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Only then try a 'long address' [address between 128 and 9999] after a successful trial using the short address. Then if it goes 'pear shaped' you know that it is something to do with the way in which you are configuring the 'long address'. Configuring a 'long address' can be more onerous as three different CVs need to be configured with values CV29, CV17 & C18. I'm not 100% sure on this [as I do not use long addresses myself], but I strongly believe that the Elite automatically writes the appropriate values to all three necessary CVs via inputting the long address in the main DCC Address writing screen. In other words, do not try and write these three CVs individually [manually] yourself as this can cause errors. Hence why the recommendation to test everything on a 'short address' first.

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Note that it is physically possible to insert the decoder 8 pin plug in the socket the wrong way round. When you do this, the lights will not work, but the motor will. When the 8 pin plug is the correct way round, then you have to send an F0 command from the Elite controller to turn the lights on. CV29 also needs to be configured for 128 speed steps. Note: the speed steps will be configured correctly for lighting after resetting the decoder to factory using the 8 to CV8 tip mentioned further above. Correct light operation should be one of the checks you make when the decoder is configured to the default factory 03 address and default factory configuration.

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Is it correct to wrap the chip in insulation tape – I worry about damaging it?

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Decoders need to be kept cool, but at the same time insulated. Personally, I wouldn't use PVC insulating tape. When it gets hot, the glue goes all gooey and makes a sticky mess. Most recommend some large heat shrink sleeving which is left loose and not shrunk to allow air to circulate.

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Next I am doing DCC ready Hornby 71000. Is there space for a sound coder or is it too tight to fit?

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No idea .. I am not familiar with this loco. In principle, TTS decoders can be supplied with speakers that are too large. It is not the decoder size but the speaker size that causes installation issues. The TTS speakers can be changed for smaller ones where needed

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I read that Hornby has issues with other chips but ones from Gaugemaster and DCC concepts are OK with Elite.

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Only the early firmware on the Hornby Select controllers tended to have issues. Elites with 1.44 / 1.45 shouldn't, in theory, be an issue with any decoder [except possibly one or two rogue ones from other brands]..

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This is an extremely long post. I remind you not to use the 'Blue Button' to try making a reply. Scroll down and use the 'Reply Text Box' and green button to reply.

 

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