Teedoubleudee

Ahh, that'll be my fault then, never thought of searching for "hopping" or "mad" LOL. I did get it apart eventually but putting it back together was just as difficult, should have borrowed an octopus from the local zoo! Now to see if it still works.

Thank you. I did do a search but all it came up with was this thread.

I have a Hornby R2778 0-4-2T class 14xx number 4869 which I wish to service after poor running. The body lifts off OK, one screw through the funnel and remove brake pipes. But I cant seem to separate the top and bottom of the chassis to access the wheels etc after removing three screws. I've searched for a service sheet but all I can find is an exploded parts diagram #227. On further investigation it looks like this might be an ex Airfix model as they DO have an instruction sheet for an 0-4-2T 14xx. The body removal is identical but the motor is different to mine. The one in the Airfix instructions has a universal joint and removable brushes. Mine is the the flat X8057 with non-replaceable brushes and a fixed worm gear. The bottom plate is stamped Hornby, Made in China. Does anyone have an updated service sheet showing this motor and how to get the chassis apart?

Thanks again Chris, all done and tested working OK.

Thanks Chris. I forgot to mention that the one I've got came out of new retail boxed train set, probably about six years ago. It's not been in use for most of the intervening years so probably firmware well out of date. I'll check out how easy it is to update or just eBay as is; they don't seem to fetch very much anyway so probably not worth my time especially as I will have to re-install Railmaster! Thanks again.

Hi, Can someone tell me if there is any difference between R8311 and R8312 please. I keep seeing adverts for R8312 but mine has R8311 on the label. Thanks in advance.

I know this is a VERY OLD thread but as I have just come across it whilst searching for the same answer I thought I might just add a solution that worked for me, that isn't mentioned elsewhere and may help others who find themselves trolling through these pages. To be fair it probably would not have worked for the OP as he had tried two different computers. My solution was simples in the end. After several unsuccessful attempts at trying to update from 1.42 to 1.45 and carefully following all the advice about 15 secs wait time etc. I was about to give up when I thought I'd try a different physical USB port on my PC. The one I was previously using was allocated Com Port 4, it seemed to load the driver OK but kept failing to download immediately with a Com Port Error. So I tried a different USB port. This was allocated Com Port 5 and driver updated. Bingo! Worked first time. Took about 4 minutes to download and rebooted into v1.45. One happy bunny. Hope this might help someone else as these controllers still seem to be popular.

hi Teedoubledee Its not very apparrent in the picture but the wood work was done scorched brown then dry brushed in bestial brown and lastly dry brushed in grave yard earth The white isn't white iether its white and grey just sort of slapped on and left to do its thing that was also dry brushed in grave yard earth the window on the inside has a mix of flesh wash and PVA that was put on in down ward strokes and the a couple of window panes cleaned of in a circular motion like some one has wiped the window with a bit of rag. The roof also is black the dry brushed dark grey then a light grey then very lightly you guessed it grave yard earth. So it has been weatherd it took a week to do all the painting some before some after assembly. I take your point on the general clutter will have to re visit that part when it is more apparent what the hut is suposed to be the will give me an idea what should be around it. Moss is a bit more problomatic I don't actulay know what it should look like we don't get any where I live to hot and dry for it. regards John Hi John, You're right it's not very apparent in the photo so please accept my apologies. Moss tends to grow on roofs, gutters etc. But it does look fine just as it is. Terry

Some weathering, a bit of moss here and there, bit of clutter outside? Nice model nonetheless.

Hornby R3170 GWR Class 4900 "Adderley Hall" 4901 from Bure Valley Railway model shop. 😆

You can already do that. Go to the settings icon on the main screen and select the 'Loco Detection' tab. There is a checkbox on the Left hand Side called 'Show point numbers on plan' (I don't know whether it applies to signals as well but I certainly leave it blank so as not to show point numbers) Thanks RDS, strange place to hide this option away. Screen looks much tidier now!

I would like the option to NOT display the point/signal ID at all as I prefer to use my own IDs using text labels, which can be placed anywhere.

There is aprogram "bug" that I have come across recently which I would like to see fixed in a future update. It is to do with REPEAT and END REPEAT instructions. These are a common type of instruction used in every program language I have ever practiced in but in RM do not behave as expected. At the end of a sequence of instructions the END REPEAT should take you immediatley back to the beginning of the sequence and start again, doing this until the required number of sequence runs is completed. For some reason I cannot fathom, in the RM version there is a substantial delay after the last instruction in the sequence has been performed before the first one is repeated again. When run from the main screen (outside of the editor mode), the lttle program clock appears to run backwards to zero before restarting. So on say, a 30 second sequence there is a 30 second delay in between sequence runs which is very frustrating.

It would be useful addition to RM to display a list of all points and signals in a table form along with selected attributes. It could then be made possible to make changes and even delete rogue entries.

Remove them. Not required as decoders are fitted with them any way. Please move to DCC section Admin.