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Posts posted by 96RAF
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The P9-any-number are all Hornby Hobbies PSUs, not 3rd party. If you are asking if a 3rd party non-Hornby PSU can be used in lieu (eg laptop supply), that is covered in the manual and has been the subject of forum discussion previously.
The various P93xx units are simply country variants to cater for voltage or mains plug differences worldwide. Ditto P9xxx and P91xx.
Scalex also market them under slightly different numbers (Cxxx) but the are the same units.The PSU plus adapter harness are essentialy the same units with the addition of a cable to connect the PSU direct to a track.
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1 hour ago, Herbie said:
Smaller power bank sounds good, even if it doesn't last as long.
If not the same capacity it will likely be using step up tech for the output voltage. Not sure what effect that will have on support time.
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20 hours ago, SIERRA XCI said:
Hi.
I recently picked up a secondhand Spencer and Oliver model. Neither came with the Operating Manuals that they would have when new. I've browsed around online and have had trouble identifying their documents. I even contacted Hornby Customer Services who informed me that they didn't have access to those documents anymore. If anyone here has copies of the Service Sheets and Operating Manuals for both and could share them, I would deeply appreciate it. Thanks!
Note that you can now post PDF files to a forum topic direct if you have them in the format.
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14 hours ago, gowest1707822480 said:
Hope live steam lovers are still running there engines and like me getting much pleasure from them
im still building new engines with a GWR freight engine in the work shop and progressing slowly
just thought I’d look on here to see what’s going on? Not a lot
Good to hear that you have a new project in the works Ken.
You can lodge pictures of the build here and / or in your own photo album now. I will email with more info. You can also post PDF files here as easy as posting a picture.
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Seeing as another thread talks about fitting sound to the TT:120 J50 I would think the 00 version would be a reasonably easy conversion.
I fitted TTS sound to a GWR pannier tank long ago using the big round speaker after cropping the tank weights, so anything is possible with TXS and the small speaker
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16 hours ago, Dodge1965 said:
Good afternoon Rob, I just wondered if there was any update on this? Not world demanding i know....
The revised format has been discussed by the moderators and admin and virtually agreed but the exact date of introduction is yet to be confirmed. It may be tied in with some main site alterations. The changes will make navigation a bit easier as they correct the brand indexes slightly.
Edit - stop press - Hornby Towers has just confirmed the update will be rolled out in the next week or so.
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10 hours ago, John-357061 said:
Also how do you reset the HM7000?
You write value 8 to CV8 same as most decoders. The decoder also resets as part of the profile loading proccess, which is why it tends to lose any given dcc address and reverts to 3.
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RM is notorious for skipping commands sent from programs, especially if the controller is an Elite. Commands sent from the screen points icons usually work fine. ELink is much more reliable at sending commands without any skips.
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34 minutes ago, Terry-381238 said:
Anyone know the firmware version that could be in a 2019 model of a R8213 Select, seen in a local s/h toy shop
Check the numbers on screen at power up.
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Do the wheels have milling on the treads.
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The diode solution is used by auto-shuttles to allow stop on drive in but able to reverse out. The diode solders across a single rail cut at the end of the siding.
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Haha - grammar and triple - gotcha.
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See the 4-Vep thread.
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Has the loco got a built in speaker, if not have you connected the external speaker.
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To get an Elite or eLink into an HM6000 style case would mean a total redesign so you are talking about a new product, not a rehash of an existing one. At present there is no need to integrate the app with RM so such a device is not required. I do agree however there could be a market for a simple dcc controller but an Xpressnet socket would not be required if it incorporated bluetooth, thus the app could talk to it direct and it would talk to the rails.
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Have you pressed F1 or F28.
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This subject has been covered on the forum previously. I suggest a search.
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Nice to know the product engineer agrees with me 😃
The 'save to server' idea is to support the multi-user layout to preclude having to delink-relink, etc to move control from device to device. In the meantime 'save to files' will protect user data from say an app crash or forced reload.
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1 hour ago, Malc58 said:
Yes its the Internet active that does not light up so no internet from the controller
not able to send deactivation request to the gateway
Thanks
The controller has no way of connecting to the internet and has no need to. Your laptop does that and talks to RM.
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With heat shrink sleeves I heat the ends just enough to get them to shrink so the decoder can't slip out but leaves it open for ventilation.
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7 hours ago, Pendragon Sailing said:
Rob, I’ve had a closer look at the failed PCB and the device marked P1 has the letters RO printed in it, if that helps identify it??? (a resistor, perhaps?)
R0 is a zero ohm resistor (i.e. a link thru') and they are used where the circuit was designed for a resistor but in the end it was not required. I guess P stands for Placebo.
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I thought it may be in the famous manual and gosh it was...
1. Yes it is the internet and yes it is required for connecting to the RM server for whatever reason.
2. It tells the status of your controller - hover over it and up comes their revision state, both controllers if you run 2.
3. There is no loco detection yet so that will never light up.
Compatible and Incompatible Power sources and associated queries.
in HM | DCC (HM7000)
Posted
On my other pc I have a cross ref list of all Hornby Hobbies PSUs old ones and those current for all countries. Can you please message me and I will let you have details of those for your part of the world next time I have that machine cranked up.