CDRC

Hi, Problem(s) solved. 1) Track continuously shorting out. Occam's Razor. The simplest answer is probably the correct one. I had swapped the dropper wires colours on the track and inadvertently linked that piece of track to the bus wire the wrong way around. Thus the continuous short. 2) ‘Y’ point not functioning correctly. Where the wire to change the polarity at the frog was soldered to the frog underneath the point, a very small piece of plastic shaving had somehow become wedged underneath the wire to that part of the frog and lifted it away from the underside so there was no continuity between the ‘V’ of the frog and the rest. This prevented the current controlled by the switch inside the IP Digital from changing the polarity. This was demonstrated by the lack of continuity when tested with my meter. I stripped out the frog connection area gave it a good clean and managed to solder a small length of wire across the four contacts. The point now works perfectly. I would like to share a number of thoughts in relation to this episode. Usually the simplest answer is likely to be the correct one. Fault diagnosis is key in this hobby. Sleep on it. 👍

Hi all I have decided to build a small O gauge end to end layout underneath my 00 gauge. I wanted to continue in DCC and decided to use DCC Concepts IP Digital pm’s. My existing 00 gauge layout is DCC and the 19 sets of points are all converted electrofrog with IP Digital and the layout runs beautifully. This decision meant I needed to convert Peco Electrofrog points, something I had done previously. I purchased a left and right hand point and a Y point from eBay as I needed to keep costs down. 1 of the points came from an existing DCC layout. The second point and the Y point did not. Having converted points previously I thought the process of converting these points would be quite simple……mmmmmmm, think again. I converted the 2 points and laid them with the track and got a short code as soon as I connected my Select (I’m using my Select as a walkabout to change the points) I disconnected the Select and tried with my Elite and tested the track again, still shorts. After a great deal testing I isolated the problem to the points and possible incorrect wiring. The stock rails have been joined as per guidelines and all three points have insulated track joiners at the frog ends even though the photos only show 1 at this time. I have attached 2 photos to show my work. Point 2 is the point bought already altered for DCC. At the frog ends where the the insulated joiners are placed both pieces of track are live. I have joined these with a green line. The track on points 2 and 3 joined by the red line are live whereas on point 1 the 2 pieces of track are isolated from each other. In the second photo, with the points flipped, point 1 with the 2 red lines indicate where I cut 2 stand alone connecting wires which I did after examining point 2, the one purchased already converted. My question is are points 2 & 3 correctly wired with the middle part of the frog electrically connected or is point 1 correctly wired with the 2 rails isolated? Thanks CDRC

I suppose like most things in life, you get what you pay for. Laisdcc are cheap, I accept that and in general I only fit them in the smaller 0-6-0 or 0-4-0 as a bit of an experiment. The type 7 was just that. I saw the way the loco and motor were configured and decided to try and convert it.

I have stall tested all the DC conversions prior to fitting. I chose Laisdcc as they show in their blurb a continuous of 1amp and stall of 1.5amp. The XO3 and 4’s I’ve converted to date have shown 6-8 ma although this has always been on straight track. This particular motor, a type 7, only showed 5 so I think from that perspective the draw was low enough. I think that I have not insulated the motor from the chassis sufficiently carefully so I’ll have another look. The advice to test the pin connections is something I have not thought about and will follow that in future conversions. Thanks again

I see, thanks.

I’m working in my kitchen at the moment as the layout is in the garage and it’s to cold out there at the moment. I have a small piece of track on the kitchen table on which I test the loco on DC to ensure good running before conversion. On each occasion prior to this I install a socket as you have suggested. In hindsight’s I’m rather happy I did as had I not I might have replaced the chip thinking it was a dud and fried a second and fried that one. Re the suggestion of testing the installation prior to putting in the decoder in. I’m assuming this is by putting in a blanking plate before the decoder and running it on DC. As I said in my original question I tested the wiring by connecting the wires appropriately and running on DC. Thanks for your thoughts. I believe the chip is fried also……so back to the drawing board.

Hi and thanks. The unused wire were isolated by cutting each back at different lengths and then applying shrink tube. I checked the wiring before programming the chip and the chip has been wired correctly

Some help please. I hardwired a decoder into a Hornby 0-6-0 Pannier (metal chassis) with a Type 7 motor following the instructions at this site https://www.modelrailforum.com/threads/decoder-hardwire-install-on-j83-tank-loco.19339/ At the motor insulation stage using a continuity tester I confirmed the motor was indeed isolated from the chassis at all points. To test further I re-connected the relevant wires on each side of the loco and ran it on my DC track. The loco ran perfectly. I connected a Laisdcc decoder following the accepted guidelines and placed the now DCC wired loco on my programming track (Hornby Elite). I programmed the loco to 2783, the locos running number and the Elite confirmed the changed in the usual way. I then placed the loco on the main track. The Elite ran through its usual self test and then went straight into the ‘ERROR’ configuration. I removed the loco rebooted the Elite and the Elite again went through the self test and powered up ok. I placed a different loco I had hardwired previously on the track and it functioned as expected, running well. I replaced the 2783 back on the track and on this occasion the Elite didn’t finish the self test before the ERROR notification showed. I can only assume I have not insulated the motor from the chassis sufficiently well, unless someone knows differently and can advise or made and error in the wiring of the decoder. If so does the ‘ERROR’ message on the Elite indicate the decoder fried?

The question was asked to clarify whether the exchange of brass for plastic had any redeeming qualities. I have just finished servicing a 1978 Hornby King Arthur class N15. The loco now runs well pulls away at low speed and for a 40+ year old motor one can’t complain. The only issue is it’s very noisy and clatters as it turns, especially at low revolutions. I was wondering that if I swapped out the brass worm for a plastic one might the noise reduce. Without being able to diagnose why the clattering I’m reduced to a process of elimination. I though to replace the magnet but my research suggests this option would not reduce the noise. I also wondered if the copper winding core was knocking against the motor housing somehow. I think I’ll have to remove the motor and bench test it. thanks for all your replies and to Tony57, I thought that swapping out the worm wouldn’t be as simple as I hoped and to Chrissaf, I hope there are members who may possibly identify a ‘fix’ C

Hi, Can I replace the brass worm on an X.04 motor with a plastic one? thanks C.

Hi, I’m sure this question has been asked on numerous occasions and having checked the forum via Google and an answer has been found of a sort. I think!……I have a DCC ready Railroad A1/A3 Flying Scotsman 2nd hand. I haven’t run the loco since I bought it 5 years ago as I was rebuilding my layout and changing from DC to DCC. I thought after that length of time I should service the loco to ensure it was running ok before installing the chip. We have a Toy Story set that my grandsons play on when they visit. I serviced the loco and ran it on the loop of the set. When running forward, on the curves it shorted out more often than not however, when running backwards this would seldom happen. I ran the loco at both fast and slow speeds and the short continued. I noticed the rear trailing bogey wheels would, on the curves, when going forward occasionally come off the track and as they’re metal I’m assuming that the short occurs when this happens. I checked the track and it is R605 1st radius. I set up my rolling road and ran the loco backwards and forwards for 5 mins each way, no problem. So it would seem this may be the issue. Am I correct in my assumption? Confirmation would be welcome. thanks Charles

Thanks Going Spare, I think your right about the pressure. Is the wormwheel the cog that meshes with the worn and is connected to the axle? I’ve re-examined the worm itself and it doesn’t seem to be worn but it is difficult to assess without having one to compare it with. I’ll have a look at the X8809M and take it from there. I was hoping I could find a complete replacement motor but if the axle cog/wormwheel is worn it would be a bit fruitless replacing it. thanks Charles

Hi, I have acquired a R1122 LNER B12. The loco wasn’t running although there is the sound of the motor running. On removing the body I discovered the worm was loose on the spindle of the motor shaft although the motor itself was turning. (the motor is the X8777SK) When I removed the body I found the previous owner had placed 2 washers under the screw at the rear of the motor that holds it on the chassis. This was to raise the rear of the motor and had the effect of pushing the front of the motor where the worm is into the drive gear? I removed these and tried to seat the motor back at its proper angle, needless to say this didn’t work as it jams the worm further into the gear wheel locking it solid. The worm is loose on its spindle, I have tried finding a replacement X8777SK but to no avail. Does any of you fine folk have……. 1) any ideas how I can fix the worm to the spindle, permanently. 2) why the wheel gear locks (the wheels run smoothly when the motor is removed, I thought it might be a quartering issue) 3) A replacement motor that will fit the B12 instead of the X8777SK i have photos if it would help Thanks Charles