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shent

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  1. Hi Guys just thought I would bring you up to date with my progress Completely stripped the loco down with the exception of the centre non-flanged wheels to help with quartering. But made sure they were clean and lubricated and running freely Turned 0.30 off the backs of the flanged loco, plastic bogies and tender wheels and turned the flange diameter on all down to 1.00mm high. Carefully rebuilt the chassis cleaning and lightly lubricating in the process. Replaced the plastic insulation bushes in the flanged wheels. I found it better to assemble the non-insulted wheels on to one end of the axle first. It is then easier to push the other wheel into the plastic insulation bush and adjust for quartering if needed. Important to check and set the distance between the wheels to 14.20/14.30mm I then tried the chassis on the track and points by hand and all ran well. Fitted the motor and Hornby Sapphire decoder and tried on track all working in both directions. Finally fitted the cover and the bogie wheels carefully tucking the insulated decoder inside. The train runs really, really well on the track and over the points. I fitted a reconditioned motor so ran in for half hour in each direction. The loco is really fast and smooth, not as fast and as quiet as a modern model but not bad for 60 years old! Hope this is useful.
  2. Hi Sarah Great, thanks for that, I have found them.
  3. High Sarah Thats very interesting. Since my first post. I have taken the wheels off and machined down a couple to try first. I have machined off 0.30mm from the inside flat surface of the wheel giving 0.60 clearance overall on the track. I have also reduced the flange dia by 1.00mm reducing it by 0.5 (Rad) to stand proud by 1.00 instead of 1.50. I have run an axle across the points and no problems and no jumping over. I will complete the rest now and put the chassis back together. One thing I did notice is that the insulated part of the wheel where the spindle fits looks a bit age worn and I am a bit concerned as to whether that may cause a problem. Insulated wheels is highlighted in the link you sent. Not sure how you would re-do those if needed.
  4. Ok I will keep you posted on my progress
  5. Hello Mico11. My level of experience is not that great back after a 40 year gap. Building quite a large layout in an atic room for the last couple of years so still a long way to go yet. As I said in the opening shot I bought the loco for sentimental reasons, My father bought me this model as my first as a child which disapeared long ago. With his passing last year I just thought it would be nice thing to have. Conversion to DC went really well and has wet my appitite to do this with a few more old locos . But first I am determined to get this running over my Peco points as it does look the part on my developing circa 1955-1965 era layout. I just missed out on spare wheels on that auction site ! ah well keep looking.
  6. Thanks for your help I will see if I can find a later model to pinch the wheels off. I will of course have to do something about the boggie and tender wheels but that should be less of a problem.
  7. Not sure if anyone has experience of this For sentimnetal reasons I bought an old Triang Pricess Victoria loco circa 1960. After complete renovation including a new reconditioned motor it ran really well on DC I have since converted it to DCC using a Hornby Saphire decoder and to my delight it runs really, really well even at very low speeds. My problem is I have a full DCC layout all using Peco set track 100 and this old loco doesnt like the points (electrofrog) it is partly that the flange is too high as it runs over the plastic part but the main problem is the two wheels wedge between the plastic parts of the points. It seems that the wheels need to be a bit thinner and smaller flanged and maybe set a bit wider apart. Other than turning them down which I will do if nothing else available, is it possible to get different wheels same diameter (not flange) that would fit on the princess and work on the more modern points. There may be a Hornby equivelant that would work No problem running on the Peco track Any help would be much appreciated. Many thanks in advance
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