Jump to content

Fozzy84

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Fozzy84

  1. Thanks very much for taking the time to reply And explaining as you go. I've got quite a few options to look at now. I have bought the points but could always return them and swap for the PM1 or PM4. The reason I had planned to use IRJs is due to me getting giddy with the solderMing iron and soldering links between rails on each of the points. Whichever route I go down, I'll be sure to upload a picture when l'm done
  2. Apologies can't upload the image... it's this one though https://www.3cparts.co.uk/original-608428002-hp-74mm-50mm-90w-chargeradapter-p-31450.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpr6r3Mzo5wIVR7TtCh0GHQbzEAQYASABEgLrzvD_BwE
  3. Thank you for taking the time to reply RAF96 and Howbiman, you have given me some ideas there. Chris... again, thank you for your time and forgive the lack of detail, I will answer your questions below. As said in my post, I am in the planning phase so although I have bought pretty much everything so far, nothing is set in stone and no track has been laid... that said, it is all Hornby track and the points are all insufrog type. 1) I am using an old Dell laptop charger to supply the point motors. 2) It is DC output 3) It is 19V attached a picture in a separate post 4) I have a CDU which can be found here https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F400583931383 5) The point motors are Gaugemaster PM-2 Standard 6) And the switches are on/off/on toggle switches of which I have a box of single pole and double too. Hope this helps. If there is anything else that needs clarifying please let me know. Thanks Chris
  4. Hello all, I'll get the basics out of the way. Whilst doing my mum and dad's loft, I found my old train set which has probably been up there at least 25 years (I'm now 36). Long story short, fell in love again and serviced three locos and cleaned all the track with peco rubber and it works well... but I want more... Fast forward a couple of months and I'm in the final stages of planning a 10ftx6ft layout in my loft and potentially a divorce. I have planned a three oval layout with a yard in the middle. There is then a station running off the outside line as well as a long siding of the outside too. All three ovals run off their own power supply and controller (4x R965) as does the yard in the middle. There are insulated rail joiners at the points and each point is connected to a point motor, which in turn, will be connected to a switch control panel. I am running DC and know that whilst it is probably overkill and I'm not sure whether I will go to DCC in the future so, each track is connected direct to the power via soldered droppers and fed into a bus wire. I'm a novice when it comes to electronics but I can follow instructions and have cut into the mains supply for power and lighting to the loft and rewired my kitchen before so I'm confident I can work with electronics. It's just diagrams and technical jargon goes way over my head. Resistors, ohms and all them squiggles and zig-zags... I will learn though and have found Brian Lambert's page particularly helpful so far. To my query, the sidings and station run off the power supply and controller of the outside oval. There are IRJs at the connection between the points and beginning of the track for each To isolate them. Whilst the power comes from the same controller, it is not connected to the bus wire but is, instead, a separate cable, for each, coming from the controller which is connected to an on/off switch and then feeds into the track. When I have a loco in either and want it to be stationary, I will then terminate power to prevent it moving. Now, for no other reason than it will look pretty and I like the idea of it, I'd like an LED light (or even two (red/green) connected to the switch to give an indication of when it's live and ideally have this showing on my control panel. So can I ask, how is that LED connected to the switch? Do I need a resistor? Will it cause any knock on voltage dropping by adding it? And if possible, can anyone point me in the direction of a very basic diagram to assist? Thanks in advance... Chris
×
  • Create New...