Australian model rail road

I bought this on ebay it runs nicely at slow speed but when you crank up the speed it is quite noisy What year would this be produced 60's or early 70's I would think, it is in good condition it had been stored for years according to the seller I just wantit to run better and quiter at speed if possible Also it has had headcode lights fitted at some stage which work. Finally what was this type of motor called

Thank's very much for your help

I just bought a two car DMU railcar the running number is M79079 made in Britain it is green the power bogie has a double worm drive not a ringfield motor how to remove the power bogie or body shell to service the motor as not sure and do not want to damage anything in the process I can not see any screws so it must be clips I think any help welcome

Many thank's for your help

I have 3 F midlander with XO4 motor there is a brown wire from the pickup which connects to a red wire into a small white device which goes to earth on the chassis the red wire goes to the left brush somewhere there is short perhaps the little white device has failed causing a short any ideas whould be of help many thanks in advance

One thing I forgot to mention I plan to use my Hakko soldering station with adjustable temp control what temp is best for this purpose of solder feed wire to the track

Flux like Bakers is very corrisive and not suitable for work like this I have a flux used in electronics a friend got me a few tins of it from his work great stuff the solder just flows beautifully

What type of solder is best to solder feed wire to track I see that you can buy 50/50 and 60/40 or low temp melt solder or rosin core which is best for this purpose

I have followed the idea of connecting each piece of track with jumper wires the best way 100% trouble free I would suggest everyone do this dry joints like fishplates are not reliable

Lima made a conversion wagon lima one end and the hornby on the other end you do see them on ebay and they are cheap or you could make one yourself that would solve your problem

Thanks for your advice I have started adding leads between the rail sections this will fix having dead spots checking with a meter the connections are the not the best high resistance with the leads perfect connection everytime Just takes time but worth it in the long run many many thanks

Lima at one time made a conversion wagon Lima coupler on end and Hornby the other you can find them on Ebay quite cheap the one I have is a ferry wagon

Nice layout one thing forgotteen give the track a good clean with a track cleaner the Peco is good to use as it may have been sitting not been used for sometime the track gets dirty and electrical connection to the loco is not good Points to need a good clean the blades

Lima produced at one time a wagon with their coupler one end and tension lock onthe other you do see them on Ebay some time cheap as

At one time Lima produced a conversion coupler wagon I have one the Lima one end and the Hornby the other end you maybe able to find one