William1707821657
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Posts posted by William1707821657
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Hi all , hope you are doing well , I recently purchased this kit and found the fit to be very good aside from what minor annoyance , the one piece canopy has a minor fit issue and doesn't fit very flush with the fuselage causing a minor gap where the parts should connect , has anybody else had this issue?
Regards
Will
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The closest I can come to a HAR3 as a new tool is a HAS5. Could you post the product code?
sure! A55307
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Hi all , I was just looking for some advice , I recently started on my sea king kit and noticed it had some really nasty fit issues , like the main floor being warped , another issue I had was with the windows . When the side parts where put in , I would put the top part on and the sides would be pushed out , all in all I haven’t had much luck with this kit , can anybody give me any advice , I would love to hear your opinion of this kit.
regards
William
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Matt paint is rough, that's why we have to use a gloss coat before applying decals. The 'ridges' trap air and cause silvering. A gloss varnish gives a smooth surface that eliminates silvering.
You are amazing Ratch thanks!
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Are you spraying matt paint?
Yes the paint is spray is the Vallejo model air range of paints and the stynlrez and Vallejo primer seems to be happening with the primer more so than the paint , however I can’t confirm that
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Hey guys , just got into airbrushing a F-4 phantom kit with a H&S evolution with a .4mm nozzle and needle , and a pressure of usually 1.5 to 2 bar , my main issue is when I shine a torch on my model at an angle , I always see the finish looks rough or coarse I use Stynlrez primer which has arround 3 drops thinner and mixed well , and sprayed on the kit until the paint looks wet , the funny thing is I am baffled by whats causing this , as my first time i remembering it happen was with my first airbrush (chinese no brand) and a different compressor , which both my airbrush and compressor have changed since then and i still get the affect , i spray close but not too close , maybe 3 inches or so away from the piece and vary my motions by maybe moving in circles or going up and down , but mostly just left and right , its been a year now and i still dont know whats causing it , but i really want to solve this once and for all.
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Okay firstly I'm not using "Bad" brushes , I'm using royal and langnickel synthetics , the paint is yellow , which if Im correct has a much finer ground pigment, I thin because on the humbrol YouTube channel they show a step by step guide on how to make your first airfix kit they advice thinning your paint for a smoother finish , I have been on other forums and they say Vallejo is very thick and requires thinning so that's why I use vallejos Thinner medium , when painting large areas with my WIDE brush I prefer their thinner as I find the paint keeps its strength whereas with TAP water it's a little weaker , I have spoken to other Modellers and have agreed that yellows are weaker as their pigment is more finely ground , i Left the paint for a drying time of 30 minutes as that's what I found on google if that's not right then shame on vallejo for not putting the drying time on the bottle
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i honestly dont know on how somebody can brushpaint a large area with with vallejo paint and no thinner! it must have strokes everywhere as vallejo model colour is such a thick paint , i find this forum so confusing sometimes and at times i dont know what to listen to
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The forum is not letting me link, I would also suggest doing a Youtube search for Quick Kits painting and Quick Kits wet palette, Owen does good tutorials and I think you might find them useful.
I use wide brushes on larger areas , and im friends with owen , i simply hate brushpainting , its generally making me want to just give up , i always find a one imperfection and just chuck the model in the bin
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Then try another brand
I Have! like the first time you told me to , i have tried 3 times! humbrol , revell now vallejo , I dont see how you can simply paint a large surface without thinning! all the tutorials say to thin the paint for better coverage and to eliminate undesirable brush strokes!
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No it isn't. I use VMC straight from the bottle and it works. You seem to be obsessed with thinning. Even in this very hot weather, all I've had to do is dip my brush in water before loading the paint on my brush as is starts to dry on my pallette. I only use VMA in my airbrush.
im painting a large surface , and using vmc straight from the bottle is too thick , i get brushtrokes everywhere and im not pushing or playing with the paint , hence for large areas like a fuselauge and wing i thin the paint down to neutralise them however even with some of my revell paints i still get strokes even when i thin
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Why did you thin it? I use straight from the bottle.
Model colour is way too thick to be brushed , I assume you think im using model air?
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Hello all , I recentley picked up some vallejo model colour "Desert yellow" which i then brushpainted onto my Tiger tanks exhaust shield , the paint was mixed 50/50 with their thinner , i left it to dry i repeated this another 2 times until i was happy with the finish , once i then went to glue it onto the rear of my tiger , i noticed that the paint didnt feel quite right , baring in mind how hot it is and it could just possibly be sweat , but it felt soft and a little tacky when i pulled my finger off , i cant remember if i have talked about this before however this only happens with lighter tones like yellows and whites etc
Many thanks
Will
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wait it must be humidity right? it was like 23 degrees when i applied it
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Im starting to think vallejo is just a joke im still getting brushtrokes and thinning the paint down!
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Just to confirm: model COLOUR ie the brush painting stuff, not model AIR the spraying stuff? I've never really needed to thin either for its intended purpose. If the colour starts to dry up on the palette a little tap water is all it needs. COLOUR thins nicely with pure ethanol for spraying (it needs heavily thinned) but pure alcohol curdles AIR. I've got a bottle of proper AIR thinner which I only use when I need a thin paint (like blotches on the side of a bf109) and that works really well.
A lot of people swear by car screenwash. Its a mix of water with some meths and a little detergent. If you can some handy why not try it on a something that doesn't matter and see if its any use?
I can sort of see the point for retarding drying if you're brush painting in warm weather but for spraying as long as it doesn't dry in the airbrush the faster it dries the better especially if you're masking. Wet paint getting under the tape is the last thing you want. Thats why I like pure alcohol or surgical spirit. The paint sprays on touch dry instantly
Thanks for the reply and yes im talking about the model colour range , i find it way too thick and its either too much tap water and the paint seperates or not enough tap water and i get brushtrokes
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"milky consistency"
and also with vallejo when i get the consistensy i want it seperates instantly (with water) and with just their thinner on its own , i waste so much thinner (like five drops) i find their thinner does nothing
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"milky consistency"
Thats the thing the model colour is so thick , i think i have been using the thinners wrong expecting them to be like humbrols acrylic thinners , could somebody please explain how to use vallejos thinners please?
Thanks
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Good evening everybody , I hope you are all having a nice sunday , the other day i picked up some vallejo retarder the other day from my hobby shop , im still struggling to find a ratio that means i dont get brushtrokes before i used the retarder my vallejo paint felt draggy , i only thin it with 2 drops of vallejo thinner medium , i also know that the retarder is like a gel so i only use a bit , and once i apply the paint it goes on ok and starts off with strokes that eventaully self level
just wondering what the perfect ratio is and should i add some water?
many thanks
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All brush painted. (I have since touched up the wheels).
wow thats amazing! i just made a 72 scale sherman , i loved it! thank you guys so much for the help!
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Thanks again for the replys everyone and i think to wrap it up on this final question , is it actually possible to get a 100% smooth finish when brushpainting , once this is anwsered im sure my anxietys will go
many thanks to everyone you have all been really supportive
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It seems to me you're nine tenths of the way - you've decided you don't like brush-painting, you're discussing paints specially formulated for airbrushing, and you have a compressor. It would be a pity to pack in the hobby without trying an airbrush - give it a go! 😀
I have tried it in the past and really enjoyed it i should have mentioned i use model colour when brushpainting not air :)
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PS have you tried spraying an alcohol based paint? Either Tamiya or Model COLOUR (not air... colour mixed 1 part paint 4 parts pure alcohol sprays well). You might find it dries almost instantly and you don't get paint creeping under the tape. I'd get a written-off kit or even a beer can and practice spraying and masking on that first. Not all masking tape is equal either.... the yellow tamiya stuff is the best I've tried. Some cheaper makes are basically useless.
is that one drop of paint to four drops of alcohol just so i know when i get my airbrush
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PS have you tried spraying an alcohol based paint? Either Tamiya or Model COLOUR (not air... colour mixed 1 part paint 4 parts pure alcohol sprays well). You might find it dries almost instantly and you don't get paint creeping under the tape. I'd get a written-off kit or even a beer can and practice spraying and masking on that first. Not all masking tape is equal either.... the yellow tamiya stuff is the best I've tried. Some cheaper makes are basically useless.
I brushpaint but im sure i will use them when i get an airbrush
Seperatley molded suspension on armoured vehicles
in Military Vehicles
Posted
Hi all , I have a relatively basic question regarding armored vehicles with seperatley molded suspension parts , this goes mainly for 1-35 I found on my current build that the suspension arms are seperate and when glued in they have a lot of wiggle and a fair bit of play , this makes it tough for me to make sure the tank is sitting level and not leaning , so i was just curious how the pros do it thinking_face
regards
William