Seacommander

I am not sure that a stall test with a stationary armature will reveal any information about the strength of the magnet. My understanding is that a magnetic field needs cutting with a rotating armature for any influence of the condition of the magnet to show up in current consumption. The results of the stall test (ie current consumption) will just be a function of the resistance of the armature and applied voltage.

Thank you very much Bee - much appreciated.

Thank you atom3624 and Rana for your comments. The objective I set out in my first post about this DP1 project was to make a passable representation of the original within the constraints of the accuracy of the kit and extras. I certainly have wipers in mind. The lining are waterslide transfers from Fox transfers as did the etched metal makers plates.

I think the DP1 build is finished now. Well that is until I find some other details to add.

Thank you for your reply 96RAF. Just minutes after I posted yesterday evening I remembered about doing a factory reset. It worked - all is well - but could not retrieve my post to delete or amend it as it had gone to the mods for approval of the photo. The unit in question is old - I updated the firmware from 1.1 to 1.45 about 4 days ago and just as a check ran the diagnostics. I find it interesting, however, that after updating to 1.45 an error was detected. I somehow imagined that updating might have incorporated some form of reset. Anyway, thanks again for your interest.

Just wondering if somebody on the forum can expand on what appears to be an error message (please see photo) displayed when powering up one of my Elites in diagnostic mode.

Brian Webb's book 'The Deltic Locomotives of British Rail' is very informative about the engines in DP1 and DP2/Class 55 which ultimately comprised the fleet of Deltic locomotives. The engines were indeed developed from a marine version with the major difference between both applications being a much modified phasing gear casing to take the traction motor generator. Beyond that there were inumerable minor modifications to components such cylinder liners, pistons (bolt on crowns instead of screwed on crowns) connecting rods (polished or unpolished) etc. Such was the rate of engine failure (reaching a peak between Oct 1970 and May 1971 when 31 engines out of the 57 in the fleet were under repair!) and ever developing remedial work that it could be true to say that at any one time there were probably only a few wholly identical engines. By 1963 when DP1 was withdrawn from service after covering 425,000 miles its engines were removed and added to the pool of Class 55 engines.

Three months on from starting to build DP1 from the Dapol kit and Bachmann DP1 chassis block and Class 55 bogies (modified) this is where DP1 is now, All the detail parts such as buffers, couplings, makers plates, horns, handrails, flushglaze windows (from Squires in Bognor Regis) etc are yet to be added.

Have started 'cobbling' together an English Electric Deltic DP1 to fill in time before Hornby release the Dublo model. It is based on the ubiquitous Kitmaster/Dapol kit - now being subjected to some fairly hefty 'kit bashing' - on a Bachmann chassis. The Bachmann bits and pieces have largely come from Ebay. Accepting that there will be detail discrepancies I am hoping that the finished effort will at least convey the overall image of the real thing.

Thank you Tim for requesting an amended sheet and hopefully others won't chase the red herring I did. One further suggestion for the amended sheet: perhaps remove the suggestion in the illustration that the dome is removable. The dome now appears to be an integral part of the body. This hopefully will prevent others trying to remove it and damaging the fragile part of the moulding where dome attaches to the top of the boiler. I did manage, annoyingly, to lose a small piece of this moulding in futile attempts to remove the dome by following the erroneous instructions on the service sheet. Are bodies available as a spare part?

Yes it was the paper one that comes with the loco. One thing to watch out for once inside: you will need to disconnect the lead plugged into the on-board PCB that connects to lighting on the body. The lead is rather short and it makes for easier work if the body isn't 'flapping around''. The on-board PCB is highly accessible. Simply remove the blanking plug and install a 21 pin decoder (or adapter for other decoders). On top of the on-board PCB and immediately under the blanking plug there is a small piece of dense black foam which I think is for cushioning and maybe preventing the decoder or blanking plug being installed on a slant. Depending on the component layout of the decoder it maybe necessary to carefully cut away some of the foam to enable the decoder to plug into the socket securely and without tilting.

Thanks PH. Perhaps I am being too naive to think that the dedicated service sheet for the model would be accurate? Maybe this thread will be of use to other similarly bewildered modellers!

Still being unable to remove the dome I considered that there would be nothing to lose if I removed the two screws underneath. Bingo! The body was off. Quite clearly there has been a change in design resulting in the abandoment of the screw under the dome and very disappointingly and frustratingly this has not been taken into account in the servicing sheets for the latest models. Finally - the dome on the latest models is definitely not removable under any circumstances either being moulded integrally with the boiler or at the very least a separate part glued in place.

No need for any apologies PH; it's good to be encouraged to review all of the possibilities and try to make sure the obvious hasn't been overlooked. I did look at all the service sheets on the Lendon site but your comment made me re-visit HR2753 and indeed on enlarging the image there does appear to be evidence of a lip. I will unpack the loco again this evening and try gently prising from the right hand side, So far I only tried front and rear as these gave the easiest access.

Thanks PH. The exploded diagram of parts and brief instructions that are included with the loco clearly show that the decoder is fitted in the loco and not the tender. They also show that the dome needs to be removed to expose a fixing screw. The decoder can't be fitted into the tender because the connecting plug and socket is only 2 pin and not a minimumof the 4 connections for basic wiring of a chip. I too noted how easily the dome was removed in the first YT video. I have emailed a query to the Hornby Technical Team to see if they have a solution.