JoeLoco06

Got it. I suppose you are marking the shaft to count motor revs? I think something is lost without live demonstration or practice on my part, but I am not an expert on motors and every post has introduced, for me, brand new topics and terminologies... but has really expanded my knowledge of the subject. I will almost definitely be printing this thread as a future resource as it covers a broad range of motor related repairs, types and mechanical/practical expertise. My question about fitting the worm to the motor was actually directed at the shaft. Are there different sizes of shaft that will be incompatiable with the worm/gear? Or is this standardized? Also it seems like the worm is essentally pressure fit to the shaft? Any issues that could arise from a loose fit? This suggests that ringfield motors run on 2-3v even though the DC controller is sending 12v down the track? Yeah, not sure about the quality of CD motors from auction, or CD motors in general due to the difference in voltage and no indication of level of wear. I thought a hobby site that deals in new RC motors might be a better choice.

RAF, my understanding of gear ratio / factor is: Is this correct? You also use the term "motor gear", Im assuming this is the worm wheel? Your post makes many things clear but leaves a few questions. How do you turn the motor by hand? The best I can think of is to turn the fly wheel to move the worm, but not all motors have an exposed fly wheel. Of course you cant send power to the motor either because then all you are turning is the worm... so I am intrigued by the simplicity of your method but dont understand what is meant to turn the motor by hand. I like your way of calculating circumference, I was going to use a piece of wire wrapped around the wheel. An important question here is do you measure from the driving wheels inner or outer circumference to calculate distance? Im assuming the inner circumference of the wheel as that is what is actually moving on top of the track. A question I also forgot to ask is about the gear puller tool. Once you pull the worm from a motor how do you fit the worm to the new motor? Nicely done james :) Strathpeffer Junction looks the way to go but their Co-Co ringfield adaptor kits are out of stock. Are there alternatives? I was thinking of going on auction to get old parts, but I was hoping there was someone who stocked fresh parts at a bulk order price.

so the formula is All is understandable except for what "gear factor" is and how it is calculated. Im not sure what is a motor rev in terms of current applied and also, how you would observe gear factor considering how small the motors are and how fast the motors rotate. Interesting James... this could be an easy fix based on what you say about the brushes. I think this loco is beyond the manually approach but its also worth a go. Is there any good places for replacement motor parts etc? My first attempt would be to fix the ringfield motor as it just sounds like fun to do, but in the long run I will almost definitely try to upgrade to a CAN motor, especially if I pass my collection on to someone younger etc. If you have experience converting ringfield motors to 3 pole I would be interested to know how you did it, as it is not immediately obvious to me how to make the convertion looking at the gears integrated into the boogie wheels and how the worm/worm wheel would interact with that etc. I am not sure what is meant by a "commen open frame" as my motor knowledge is limited, but the M Motor does have a seperate housing that might be useful in a CAN motor convertion, once RPM is calculated.

Cheers RAF for the gear puller :) Thanks Chris the motors have been identified as Hornby Ringfield Motor and the Type M Motor. Thanks James on the indepth repair of the Ringfield Motor, this will be worth printing I think! Regarding the running of the loco it does seem to make a "jamming" sound in the direction it refuses to move in, the loco itself is well worn and the body shell is not in the best of condition, so it clearly had a lot of use in its life before finding me. I think your diagnosis is spot on, however from my current understanding of electric motors I did not think it was even possible for the motor to run one way and not the other until I saw it. I understand that reversing the polarity reverses loco/motor direction but I do not understand the role the brushes play in the motor. I would have expected it to either run poorly in both directions or not run at all in both directions regardless of polarity. While I am on the topic, do the current range of hornby diesel locos make use of the Ringfield Motor or is the entire range CAN Motors now? Regarding the Type M Motor I am less enthusiastic about keeping this in service. My goal here instead would be to replace it with a modern CAN Motor as it looks like the motor can be easily soldered from the loco. Is such an operation possible? Where would be a good source of 2000 RPM CAN motors? My general goal here is modernization to CAN motors and not necessarily restoration of worn out motors. This is an important point as another 0-4-0 hornby loco yet unmentioned is a CAN "pocket rocket" and also needs a better scale speed motor.

Cheers WTD, see my above reply post for all the details you need.

ok. The first loco is a DC only R.402 BR class 37 Diesel. I do not have the manual but this model was "made in Great Britain". I do not recognise the motor as it is before my time in this hobby. The motor is integrated into the plastic design of the rear bogie with four large gears exposed. A single brown wire leads to the front bogie to pick up power and send to the motor. This motor will only move in one direction and is near dead. This is easily my most old school loco mechanically speaking. There is no obvious housing of the motor, the bogie and the motor appear to be integrated. The motor featured in this loco here looks extremely similar if not the same: The second loco is the hornby Thomas the tank engine "Thomas and Friends" 2015 range (also DC only). This includes another old style motor. The Type M Motor according to the manual. Poor running even after service. This loco and motor are exactly the one featured in "How to Service/Repair a Hornby Thomas" by Sams Trains. thanks for the indepth info james, I will look at the repair shop you suggested but would prefer to repair/replace myself. I am not an expert on motors but I dont think either are the X03/4 you describe. Nearly all my locos have modern motors in them so upgrading these two to be in line with the rest of the fleet seems the most logical option. Also note that my original question on what is the RPM and voltage of modern hornby loco motors has not been answered.

I have two old hornby locos with dead/dying motors. What is the RPM and voltage of modern hornby loco motors so I can go about repairing or replacing the motors. I have basic soldering skills but have little knowledge on motors. Also, is their a specific tool for removing the motor worm from a dead motor?

Unfortunately I do not RDS and I dont live near the border. If Northern Ireland and Australia can receive the membership I would be surprised if the border is really the issue. It might be a technical bug because it would cost as much to ship to Eire as NI, if not I chose "standard shipping" fees over "free shipping". I know free shipping is UK only. @Chris: Thanks I have already logged a ticket to see what the problem is.

To the best of my efforts I cannot join the Hornby Membership Club. 1. I go to this link: https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/memberships 2. I select type "JOIN" and add the membership to my cart 3. From the checkout page I select "Standard Delivery" (The two options are standard and free). 4. I get the following message :( What am I doing wrong? As a major train enthusiast this was very disappointing. I am living in Ireland but see others from countries such as Australia have no problem joining. I have also tried selecting free shipping and that doesnt work either. I am stuck on the order details page :( Please help as it makes no sense to me how someone in Ireland using standard delivery would not be able to recieve shipping from the UK.