Wingman1707821865

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Yes! Now I've got the 125 out of the drawer and placed along side the 225 I see they are quite different, I had it in my head that the 225's were just revamped 125's but I see they have similarities but definitely not the same.

These are the ones I ordered : Wheel Set Dummy Unit Class 43 (X9861), to be honest I didn't know there was a new version of the HST 125/225 (I don't get out much 😁) The spec is somewhere between the original wheels and the new type but the wheels are wide enough and the flanges deep enough to stop the derailing on my MK4 coaches.

Well I came up with an answer to my problem and that was fitting the 225 dummy carriage wheels to all the MKIV coaches, and it worked out marginally cheaper than using the newer 14.1 or 12.6 wheels that made the carriages derail. The dummy car wheels are closer to the original wheel dimensions than the newer ones and the carriages don't jump the tracks anymore so that's me happy. I noticed that a lot of my other carriages are fitted with the newer type wheels but for what ever reason they give no derailing problems so it must be somehow down to the design or extra length of the Mk4 carriages.

The main layout is on 25mm chipboard supported liberally by 3x2" timber joists running under it, it's rock solid but I don't use that section to run the 225 and mark4 carriages as it's not large enough. The 225 and mark4 carriages run around the circumference of the loft, the foam and track run on 3x2" timber that is screwed to the purlins, it's perfectly straight, level and solid. The problem is most likely the track itself that may have slight deviations that is being picked up by the narrower wheel width and smaller flanges of the newer type wheels. I've refitted all the old wheels and the 225 has been dragging round 8 mark4 carriages and the dummy rear unit at a reasonable pace none stop for the last 3 hours without one derailment so I'll settle for that. It would have been nice to have been able to replace the old wheels with new ones but I'm not prepared to start ripping up track to facilitate that, I had thought of turning them down a little to give a larger flange but that would still leave them with narrower wheels and I couldn't figure out a way of holding the insulated wheels in the lathe without damaging them. If some 3rd party company was to bring out all metal wheels the same spec as the old plastic axle/wheel with metal rims I think they'd make a killing. Thanks for all the advice.

Thankyou for the replies, I received no notification that there were any replies, is there a setting you have to tweak on here? The original wheels measured 13.25mm and 15.25 mm across the flange, I went for the 14.1 mm replacement wheels as opposed to the 12.6 mm as I thought the larger ones would offer more stability and that was just as well as that was the only size my local model shop had in. They did unfortunately catch on the boggy but only just and a little trimming soon sorted that out, luckily they didn't catch on the underside of the carriage. I have since fitted some smaller 12.6 mm Dapol wheels but they act in a similar manor with derailments being very frequent. I guess I'm a bit of a heathen when it comes to track spec as I didn't know there was old and new track, the track was all bought new about 5 years ago but that doesn't mean it was new stock from the supplier. All my track is on Woodland Scenics Foam Trackbed so if a length of track isn't perfectly flat it would be very hard make it so without complete removal of that section. There must be lots of aging carriages out there that could do with new wheels so I can't think why Hornby don't produce wheels to the same spec as the old ones, that would save a lot of time and effort getting the setup to run as it did on the old wheels and they'd sell thousands of 'em. I've gone back to the old wheels now, they may be noisy and a little wobbly but I can leave it running all day if I want with no derailments. Thanks for your advice and suggestions.

I realise this is an old thread but here goes, when I was a kid many years ago I had a 225 with mk4 coaches. I decided I'd like to recreate that set up and duly purchased a driver and trailing unit along with 3 mk4 carriages, the noise from these things was terrible as none of the wheels were round and wobbled all over the place. I replaced them with new Hornby 14.1 metal wheels but unfortunately they now derail at the drop of a hat, I figure my track must have a few undulating parts that don't agree with the thinner wheels and smaller flanges, why don't Hornby make their new all metal wheels to the same spec as the wheels they're supposed to replace?

I've used the search facility on here but nothing related to my problem came up so forgive me if this has been mentioned before. I've set up a 22" touch screen next to my layout to use Rail Master with but the program always defaults to the main screen every time I boot up. Every other program I use always boots back up on the monitor it was last used on, I can't even use it in full screen. If I'm on the touch screen it has to be in a slightly reduced screen size and should I forget and click the maximise button then it instantly jumps across to the main screen. If I click on any of the button that bring up another little screen they always pop up on the main monitor; even though the last time they were used they were moved across to the touch screen. Every time I use the program it's like starting from scratch. Actually! I've tried it on one of my other attached monitors (none touch screen) and it does exactly the same thing, the program just doesn't like running on any other screen but the one you've allocated as the "main screen" in Windows (10 pro).