Roger1707821911

I,too, am very pleased with it. Thanks all for the info Roger

Hi All I have an R3898TTS Class 08 Would anyone know which decoder is fitted to this loco? Dont fancy dismantling due to dexterity issues. Thanks Roger

Hi Chris.. Thanks for that, it is wired correctly as you suggest. Since posting the initial question, I have unwrapped a brand new point and tried again, this time, it seems to work OK, so I'm supposing it is a mechanical issue of some kind. Roger (Chalford)

I have recently set up my 6000/6010 system which is fine controlling the locos. Today I connected a Peco PL11 to the 6010 and that switches firmly in both directions. However when I mechanically connect the PL11 to an actual point, there seems to be insufficient force to operate the point reliably. Occasionally it will switch firmly in one direction but will not return the other way. I really dont think the 6010 to be at fault but cant seem to track down the issue. Suggestions welcome. Roger (Chalford)

@96RAF First issue was 2.2 second interval breaks in the sound Roger (Chalford)

Thanks Tim That's 2 glitches so far.... Roger

@ TI.. Are you using an android device.... The option certainly doesn't exist on mine. Roger

Just watched an online review of the HM600 which showed in the Edit Devices menu (IIRC) the ability to alter the frequency of the PWM. The demonstrator was using an iphone... I cannot find this on my Android ... is it only available on the iphone? Roger Chalford

@ & LNER Thanks for the tip...I have found a used copy on "that auction site". Roger Chalford

@ 96RAF Thanks for the links...very useful. Roger

Having been a life-long GWR enthusiast fairly recently returning to Rail Modelling I would like to know if there is a "one-stop" source of specifications..size weight, when introduced etc of GWR locos from Era 2 onwards IIRC we used to get a lot of info from the old "Ian Allen" books. Roger (Chalford)

@96RAF Thanks for that....I,m hoping they will find a fix. Roger

@96RAF It was/is audible on just the phone even before the B/T speaker. Roger

@96RAF Yes, I suspected it may be that...will have to try to find the causes. I play mine thru a 50mm cube B/T rechargeable speaker £9 from a "Prime" supplier, and its concealed in an engine shed. Roger

My HM6000 is now set up and working...Testing out the sounds, I have an issue with the continuous steam sound (the icon on the far left).....every 2.2 seconds there is an interruption to the sound (a tiny fraction of a second)... it sounds like a sound clip ending and almost immediately restarting... Anyone else noticed this or is it just my system? Roger (Chalford)

@96RAF Thanks for that..I will look into that. Roger

Just a few thoughts on initial acquaintance..... Wiring .... all my power feeds are soldered direct to the tracks so I considered cutting off the supplied connectors and soldering them ... then I noticed the conductor spacing was an excellent fit into a pair of Wilko 3 amp choc-blocks cut from a strip. Setting up ..... didn't go well ... couldn't pair with phone until I switched from Mesh to BLE in the App ...... didn't know there were different modes of Bluetooth then all paired easily ... Setting the sliders and other parameters went easily and all seems to be working well. Next task is to work out how to swap my phone app to a tablet. So far...quite impressed....wonder if I can persuade a couple of my DCC locos to run on it. Roger (Chalford)

I have an R3619 Abergavenny Castle which, for purely sentimental reasons I want to rename Tregenna Castle. I have obtained the etched brass nameplates and cab-side numbers. Where I have come unstuck is that I overlooked the fact that the "Abergavenny" nameplate is much longer than the "Tregenna" replacement. What is the best way forward? shorten the existing? fit it to the longer existing? or maybe abandon the idea? What say? Roger

@GS and all who helped. Thank you all for your time and trouble. Regards Roger

Success at last!!! but in a strange way...this morning after spending 2 or 3 days trying to sort it, I decided to put it all back together and use the loco as a "static". Anyway I very quickly reassembled it...put it on the track and...it worked.....I had not taken much trouble in reassembly either !! Must be a lesson there somewhere ? Roger

Thanks everyone....still no joy. Thing I cannot understand is that the connecting rod will surely only fit when the distance between the crankpins is correct.....ergo if the con rod fits, the distance must be right? Or am i missing the point? Roger

@96RAF Thanks for that...this is crazy!!! Set the crankpins on one side at exactly 6 o,clock...on power up, the axle with the gearing rotates as it should...the other wheel does 180 degrees back and forth...just like pumping a bike pump.....think i,m going slowly crazy!! Roger

I have to thank everyone for all the help I have received with this. I have re-assembled most of the loco and all the parts seem to be in place. However...I dis-assembled the driving wheels and connecting rods as part of a thorough clean up, but now on re-assembly the two pairs of wheels will not work together.. they tend to jam up and one pair will not rotate 360 degrees but oscillates back and forth. IF it was a car engine, I would describe it as a timing fault.... Is there such a thing with these driving wheels? Do they have to be in a specific position? It seems so easy to replace the connecting rods...but not for me!! I have spent best part of a day trying to sort it and now feel it will become a "display Only" Roger

Thank you both...that worked.. At the moment I cant see too much adrift apart from all the wheels being a bit tight on the BtoB gauge. Roger

@96RAF Yes PP3 was first thing I tried. I'm sure the issue is with, or around, the un-driven back axle. Problem is, as original, the chassis will not seem to separate from the motor mounting block. Roger