Bogmonster

I've only recently got back into this after a very long break (about 15 or more years). I used to be very into it when I was younger as my Grandad was into trains. Steam engines in particular. I've always liked them myself too. I've been putting a new layout together and all the old loco's we had collected over the years are getting used again. Some of these are nearly 30 years old. I was shocked that they all still run. Long story short, myself and my Grandad were always on the hunt for a Black 5. We were never ever able to find one. So I found one online Sunday and ordered it. Should have it Thursday and I'm psyched to actually get my hands on one. I think he would really have liked it. I'm also still new to the whole lingo for talking about model railways. So if there's a thread or something where all this is explained, please post a link.

That's good to know. I had read some old topics on here about transformers blowing and stuff I had never heard of. But the Gaugemaster controller is very good. The lights on it change colour when there is power to the track. It's a good indication when changing the points to see what's working.

Just a quick update, I switched out the fishplates back to the standard ones. Much better! I'm able to have the trains move through the loops perfectly. I can match the speed and direction for each loop on the controller and there is no need to stop the loco. And the method mentioned here of stopping the loco and turning off power to one track and using the other to bring the train across works perfectly too. It works on all sections where I swapped it out. Thanks guys! Very happy with the outcome.

Thanks Chrissaf and Rog. I was wondering would it be ok to just switch back to the regular fishplates. I wanted to try out a few options before I nail down the track and start the ballast process. If I'm using fix 2, and I am going from the outer to inner loop, will I still be able to turn down the power for the outside loop and engage the power to the inner loop while leaving the points open to allow and coaches attached to pass or will this also cause problems?

Hey guys, I have a power question for the more experienced guys here. I have my layout wired up and running as per this diagram below (Big thanks again to Chris here for helping). My power is attached at the green dots and I have a pair of isolating fish plates at the blue dots. This is powered by DC. Just wondering is there a way to allow my trains to pass from the outside loop to the inside loop smoothly? The isolating fishplates obviously separate the circuits but as the train is passing it stops once it crosses over and I need to push it onto the other line. Is there a way to have the train pass smoothly from one loop to the other? I'm using a Gaugemaster Q4 controller for both loops and the 2 other dead areas to run everything. Really great controller and everything runs very smoothly. I've tried having the speed and direction the same on both loops to enable the train to pass over but at the break, it still stops. Any way I can sort this out or is it just the nature of DC? DCC isn't an option for me as they're old trains I have. Thanks in advance!

Cool. Thanks again for your help! I've been hearing a lot about using a 3rd controller and that seems like the cleanest way to go for me. I also wasn't aware of insulated rail joiners either. Thanks again!

I see what you mean. What would you suggest as the best way to power these sections? I was thinking the link wire kit but I've also read things about having a separate controller too.

Hey guys, I'm looking for some help again. I've decided on the design for my layout. You can see it here in the photo. Basically 2 layouts combined from the Hornby catalog into a big L shaped layout. I'm going to be using DC to power it and using the standard HM 2000 controller. But I'm still not 100% sure where the clips go. I'm confident in putting them in the highlighted sections here so I can run 2 locos at the same time. But I'm still not sure if I will need some of the link clips to power the section at the side. Both sections here will be joined together in a big L shape. Can anyone offer any advice on this please? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I haven't tried adjusting them. I didn't know you could. How do I do that? I'm looking through the settings but I can't find anything.

Thanks ArmyMedic, I'm actually currently using the free version of SCARM right now to get an idea of the track layout I want. I'm going with the Medium Oval layout from Hornby but I'm changing one side to have a side straight line with a few sidings off it. I've had to do it in 2 parts since I've used all the parts I can place. The main issue I'm running into is when I do it in SCARM using the pieces listed, it doesn't fit properly at 2 sections. I don't know why. I've done it a few times with the same result. I'm guessing it's a software issue as the plan in the book is coming straight from Hornby and I'm only using the Hornby 00 track in SCARM. I will download Anyrail and see if I get the same problem. I'd like to also upload an image here so I can figure out where exactly to power my layout so I can run 2 trains on each loop. I'll be going all analog for my power. I've read a few bits on it and seen a few videos but it's still a little confusing and I'd like to get the most out of the layout from the start.

Thanks Buz, Doc and Mico11 for the insight! This is all great stuff to know. I recieved the Hornby Track plan book yesterday and I've been checking it out and the extensions as well and I think I've decided on my layout and an extension for the side section I have too. I have a few modifications to the layout that I'd like to do which I will also try. Knowing the track pieces I need and their code is a great help so I can do a mock up of it in SCARM rather than blindly trying to figure it out. Mico11, you were saying that the old stock flanges don't take to well to newer track. Maybe I've misunderstood the term but when you say flange are you referring to the width of the wheel itself?

Hey Buz, That's all great information. Thank you very much! I've been checking out my layout over the weekend and I'm actually going to get a new board to mount everything on. The current one has seen better days. I'm not looking for anything crazy complicated. I'm quite happy with a loopy style layout rather than a more straight one. I find something nice about just watching trains go round and round. Probably just memories from my childhood. I really like the Medium Oval layout here and so far that's my favourite one. Do you know if there's any other places where I could find different ones? There only seems to be 3 on this site. I have downloaded SCARM to try and generate my own layout but It's not really happening for me. I either get too complicated or it doesn't fit right. I have a few ideas for expanding the medium oval layout by eliminating some of the buffer stops and continuing on the track. My setup is a basic rectangular layout with a sort of extension down one side. I was thinking maybe a goods yard or something for that section. I haven't fully decided. I just want to get the track laid down first and some painting done before I start adding buildings and stuff. As far as cleaning the locos I was planning on using Servisol Super 10. It's a cleaner and lubricant and I use it all the time on my musical equipment and I was hoping it would do the job nicely for my locos too. I will definitely be staying with DC. It's plenty for my needs. The DCC stuff really does look very cool though.

Thanks very much for your input Chris! Very much appreciated. I've been checking out your recommendations and I'm thinking a track upgrade is in order. I think it's a cleaner and faster solution and will also allow for DCC operation if I go that way in the future. Right now I will be keeping it simple and staying with DC operation. I'll keep that in mind about the rolling stock wheels too. I don't have any new stock to compare my stuff to. But everything I have is Hornby with the exception of 1 or 2 Bachmann locos. The passenger coaches all have plastic wheels so aside from the fit, I would hope they wouldn't cause any shorts on the points. I can change out the wheels if necessary though if I encounter any problems. Thanks again for your help! I'll more than likely be on here again for guidance. Cheers.

Hey gang, this is my first post here and I'm hoping I can get some advice and guidance from the more experienced crew here. I've recently got back into model railways again. I have a very old layout (about 30 years old) which my Grandad built when I was young. I've relocated it to my own house now and want to get it up and running again. It's definitely seen better days and some of the old buildings and stuff has been ruined as it's been a bit neglected for some time. I've stripped the board and repainted it (just a basic idea of what it was like) and got it ready for some track. I have 2 real options available to me right now and I'm hoping you can help. 1. I have a lot of track which is old but in otherwise decent condition apart from being filthy. It's not corroded but is pretty black on some pieces. Is there a way I can clean the rails to get them working again? 2. Should I just abandon the old track and start fresh with a brand new layout to give the board a new life? At the moment I'm leaning towards option 2. Mainly because with the current layout, the tracks are very much a collection of random pieces that fit well but aren't exactly a perfect fit and look a bit forced together in parts just to make them fit. I think a fresh layout from some of the kits here might be a better option. I was looking at the medium oval layout. Any thoughts or input is greatly appreciated or if there is any further information I can give then just let me know. This is my first real dive into this in a long time. Cheers!