KiwiKev

I used the old fav, Humbrol Matt 64 enamel. Deck was either Matt 252 or the very similar Matt 78. My kit was very old, probably the original edition, the instructions just say "battleship grey" and deck "Dark Grey Green" but don't give any paint numbers.

Wow, I am surprised Belfast is that much older, as it has all the superstructure walls molded separately and generally appears the best thougth out model of the lot. Repulse is almost slightly retrograde compared to KGV and Belfast, given the superstructure features I mentioned, but still has impressive hull detail. Yes something new in 1:600 would surely be popular if the subject was well chosen. Even a 1980s Illustrious down-scaled to 1:600, since they have already done the design work, would have been popular I'm sure. We can only dream!!

This was one of the last Airfix models I built 15 or 20 years ago, along with the KGV and Prinz Eugen. That left me with a very good impression of Airfix models, although to be honest they are about the best they produced alongside the Belfast model. Revisiting the Repulse again, I do remember having trouble getting the deck to locate correctly, and didn't get it perfect last time. Although the quarter deck has a very positive locating ledge, the forecastle deck has a typically fine ledge that the deck can slip off during gluing. This time I've glued in some additional tabs to ensure a positive fit while the glue dries. Another minor gripe is that some sections of the lower superstructure are molded into the deck, and with the mold release that means they carry no detail, so one of the first tasks will be researching the detail that should be on those areas. Overall though I am very impressed with the quality of molding and the level of detail on this kit. Some of the paperwork carries a 2011 date although the parts themselves are stamped 1982.

Building one of the best Airfix 1:600 ship models.

Completed model. The photo etch is quite tricky in places, especially the mast top antennas. I recommend assembling the entire central mast rods with PE prior to gluing on the model, however you have to make sure everything is aligned properly, including the rake of the masts that should roughly match the funnels, whereas the mast top antennas I suspect should be vertical. Some sort of jig would assist. In the end I didn't hollow out the lifeboats as that was getting too hard, so just filled and flattened the top of them and glued the photo etch tops for them straight on. I used the original davits as I never really like the PE ones, however on reflection I think I'd try to replace the originals with thinner wire ones as they seem a bit too heavy now that they are fitted. In conclusion I found this model quite enjoyable to build. Comparing it with other larger scale models there still appear to be some slight errors that might offend the rivet counters, such as missing HACS either side of the bridge, but overall quite pleased with the results.

Remove the small cylinder fitting at bow.Increase rake of bow (if desired, I cut it back about 3mm back at the base of the bow and filed it to a straight stem at the original deck line).Cut the forward hull 147mm back from tip of bow, ensuring cut is vertical and equal both sides and all way round.Cut the aft section 140mm forward of the aft most point of the hull.Once edges are fully smoothed glue both halves together using any suitable method, I usually glue styrene plastic tongues inside across the gap between both halves. Obviously getting the alignment right is critical.The aft half hull plating must lose 4.5 mm height either side of the hull plating at the joint, which forms the break in the forecastle deck. It pays to use masking tape to get the line for the cut all the way aft marked, and make sure you are happy with the sheer and the alignment of the deck lines, they should look parallel. I DID NOT follow the original line of the quarter deck and extend it forward, as it appears to have an aft slope which I'm sure is wrong. So be prepared to file down even that section to give a nice even deck line from the break in the forecastle all the way back. Visually check carefully the look down the hull before cutting.Measure the forecastle deck cut point so it runs only as far as the new break in the forecastle deck and will be a good fit. Don't glue on just yet.Cut the "step" out of the quarter deck break and glue the aft deck onto the aft section of the upper deck. If you take care you can get a good joint with the plank lines on the deck joining up reasonably well. Keep any left over planked decking as you'll need it as filler when you remove the two square deck houses on the forward deck either side of the funnels.I added an armour belt of 0.25mm thick styrene, its top edge about 3.5 mm below the quarter deck level. It is 5mm x 90mm and extends 20mm forward of the joint. Also helps to cover the joint. Now you may need to chamfer the edge where it meets the bulge in the hull, which Exeter didn't have, and if you fair it in carefully you also hide the bulge a bit.Fitting the aft deck will take some patience. Since you will have cut out the ledge that supports the deck, it is recommended you file down the inside of the hull to give a thickness around it that equals that of the forward deck, about 0.5mm. You may have to carefully glue tabs inside the hull to support the aft deck and it pays to file a bevel inwards on the lower surface of the decking to help give a nice tight fit.If you are brave enough to get that far let me know and I'll see if I still have the sketches for the aft superstructure dimensions and detail to upload.

I'll see what I can do. The main part to get right is where you cut the hull section out and rejoin. Otherwise, you can probably glean most of the process from the earlier photos. You need to retain any surplus deck to try to fill in those areas on the Suffolk deck with matching lined deck where you need to cut away deck houses.

Although the paint is still a bit rough, this shot shows the PE windows fitted to the bridge area, a great improvement over the original part. The funnel plating scribing is also visible. Its not the best in terms of neatness. In future I must take the time to build a proper jig for this type of thing, as trying to hold straight edges over tiny pastic parts while scribing is asking for trouble. The added bilge keel can also be seen. The PE cross bracing between decks can also be seen. I have varied it slightly from the instructions after looking at some other models. The superstructure under the catapult platform is not all solid so parts of it may have to be painted black with grey painted cross bracing PE glued in front to make it look like an empty space under. I noticed this too late to properly modify it. Quite liking this model but finding the camoflage scheme somewhat challenging to get looking good.

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An additional modification I've made (compare with the same area in the first picture on previous post) is to cut away the lower forward side walls of the bridge structure. The bridge wings should overhang, with a clear area beneath them, and with the superstructure walls going straight back from the front face. The box art actually shows this quite well on the version showing the ship in camoflage. I was tempted to leave this as is, but it is pretty obviously wrong and not hard to correct at this stage of the build. The original molded item has the lower bridge structure walls conforming to the outline of the bridge wings, with no resulting over-hang. This modification also has the added benefit of the ladderway coming up from the covered boat deck flowing more logically into an open deck space.

Progress to date. Hull is basically finished, just props to glue on when most of the handling is finished. I created 4 slightly smaller props as the ones supplied looked bigger than a battleships. Whether they are right or not I can't say but they just looked too big. Main and secondary turrets have been detailed, funnel plating scribed on, and the hangar has been modelled with one door partially open, which I quite like. Awaiting PE before completing the bridge.

I have to say I am amazed at how many times I'm not that enthused by a model, but then once I start it I end up loving it. These old kits really transform with a bit of extra detailing. I grabbed some pictures of a 1:350 scale model of Suffolk to help guide the detailing. None of the 1:600 scale Airfix models have been a complete disappointment although some are more of a challenge than others, but they can all be completed as really nice products. Suffolk never really grabbed my enthusiasm before but as there were quite a few kits available a year or two back I grabbed a couple. Now really enjoying this one, and appreciating the ship a lot more. Can't wait for the PE to arrive. Apparently it contains bridge windows which will help improve the rather basic bridge. I've cut the window and roof level off it, now waiting for the PE windows. Building these is kind of like a seccond childhood for me. Only problem might be I run out of subjects in this scale, but wouldn't mind doing Hood and Bismarck again to a better standard.

I might have to grab another of these if one comes up on a local online auction. I think this would convert quite easily into a Hawkins class heavy cruiser with 7 x 7.5 inch guns, now that I've looked at the details of that ship.

Probably doing something similar paint wise although not getting too carried away with accuracy. Might have to order the WEM photo etch. Great rigging job there. Are we nuts? Well, it definitely keeps us off the streets. Update, although the wiki site on HMS Suffolk implies it had quad torpedo tubes throughout its life, apparently they were removed for the big refit, so the model is accurate in not having them, which is one less thing to scratch build.

My first version of this kit became an HMS Exeter conversion, partly because I had two of them and so had one "spare" that I was happy to experiment with. Its quite striking how big this cruiser is, longer than Graf Spee, which was indeed fortunate to meet the British squadron minus HMS Cumberland, as had two 8 inch cruisers been present her demise may have been much quicker. There are a few things that immediately need rectifying in this kit to my mind. I have already increased the rake of the stem as it looked far too upright, almost vertical. There are no torpedo tubes so some will have to be sourced, even if they are hidden below the deck over-hang. The outer prop shafts are way too far out, I've moved mine inboard and further back and it just looks a lot better. The props supplied also look way too big, so I'll build some smaller replacements. Finally the forward 4 inch mounts are virtually trapped beneath the circular light AA platforms above them. While they should be close, when fitted as intended the mounts can't even swivel, and the barrels would be hopelessly impeded in their train. I decided to move the forward 4 inch mounts back, necessitating new mounting pads, and reducing the length of the gun crew shelters, all very fiddly. It was only after doing this that I realized a MUCH easier option would have been to file off the locating pins on part 83 and slide the whole bridge structure forward slightly. There seems to be ample room between the bridge and B turret. I recommend anyone concerned about the same thing use this techniqus and don't do what I've done, even though it should turn out OK.