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Stephen-1211844

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  1. Hi Flashbang, thanks. On DCC I took the body off and ran it: popping disappeared. I've checked the wires: seem fine. The wipers are all in contact. The metal around the chip is insulated with tape (not the chip itself). I've tried running it under DC (minus chip) on test track, with body, using a Guagemaster Combi: still pops. Very odd: I'm going to adjust the con rod nuts (need to buy a tool though).
  2. Thanks atom3624, but I've made sure everything everything is tightened up.
  3. Hi, I have had a Centenary Peckett 614 R3825 for a couple of months and it has started making a continuous popping sound when its running (DCC). The popping isn't synchronised with the rotation of the wheels and I don't think its mechanical in that sense. It sounds like its being made by the motor. Could it be electrical? And is there anything I can do to remedy it? Its fitted with a Hornby R8249 decoder. Thanks.
  4. Brew Man, I looked at the TCS website and they don't seem to cater for 00 guage. Does this matter? Or does one chip fit all guages, cause that could be useful.
  5. I persevered and managed to fit the Hornby 8 pin chip in the recess in the side tank (they are not immediately apparent so shine a torch!). There is a recess both sides and it goes under the cabin floor slightly. I found it helped to stick a piece of insulation tape, folded over on itself, (so two sticky sides) in the recess first. Sort out the the wires so they are really neat together. Then carefully insert the decoder onto the tape holding its edges. Then insert the chip pins into place, then fold the wires around so they fit. I didn't have to use pressure from the screws to get it to sit properly when returning the loco body to the casing: it found its seating easily.
  6. Wouldn't it be nice if we had a database of what is known to work with what. And a definition of 'works'?
  7. Hi Howbi, Was the Zimmo supplied with the little pouch or did you obtain/fabricate that separately. It solves the insulation issue but might the chip not then overheat? Also, I tried fitting into the recess but felt it was too near the wheel.
  8. Hi, Re: Wainwright H Class 0-4-4 T Loco R3631, DCC ready. I'm installing an 8 pin decoder R8249 in this loco (I believe it's the right one). I have it connected but I don't see how it can all fit in. Am I missing something, it just seems odd that Hornby has a chip that doesn't cram in, or do I need to consider other manufacturers. Thanks.
  9. Hi everyone, RogerB - Hi, the other decoder was a Guagemaster DCC18. Thanks. I have now carried out the steps suggested above but the problem persists i.e. the shimmy, slow running and jerky and when at rest the connecting rods are no in identical positions. I have reset the Select controller, removed the offending R8201 link wires and thoroughly cleaned and checked my track, and reset the Hornby decoder in the Peckett. I have done this exactly as described here or in the Hornby literature. Can you suggest what I can try now please. Thanks.
  10. Morning Chris, thanks again for your advice and the links: indispensable reading. Re Power: I'm in the process of removing the link wires, replacing them with point clips (R8232). Then I'll be resetting the decoder as per the addendum leaflet to the v1.6 Select manual on the main track but remembering only to leave the one loco on the track, and then asap setting up a test rack as per the Select's booklet. Re Shimmy: this occurs in forward and reverse but less pronounced in reverse. If by coupling rods you mean the arms that make the wheels turn, I don't have a rolling road but when at rest the rod on one side is always centred on the wheel and on the other side its positioned at the top of the wheel, is this what you meant? When it's moving it's hard to tell if they are in unison. Re a to a and b to b: Not that it matters now that I have the clips but inner rail to inner and outer to outer, right? 55 yrs since my last train set. Second loco arrived this morning. Spent weekend making scenics. Great stuff!
  11. Hi, thanks. No changes whatsoever and definitely not dropped.
  12. @ColinB Many thanks for your reply. I note you comments. Please see my reply to Chrissaf. I note you both mention the power clips. As for my track, I've inspected it very closely and seems to be OK and its elevated. Cheers.
  13. @Chrissaf Many thanks for your reply. Here's the info you requested: Track power connectors I am connecting the outer loop with the inner loop with what I am sure is Link Wire R8201 with the copper coloured connector. One clip on each loop connected with wires a to a and b to b, on the same side of the layout that the Select power supply is connected (size of layout is all extension packs except F so Two loops). The main power supply connector with the two little green buttons on top linking the select with the track, judging by the catalogue, is R8241. Firmware is 1.6. Unit supplied by very reputable shop as brand new. Loco R numbers: The original one that I refer to as running perfectly initially, but which is now running with a shimmy and clicking is Hornby R3825, Peckett 614 Limited Edition. I've looked carefully and there is nothing obstructing the wheels. The second one added later that seemed to introduce the problems was a Bachmann. Thanks again. Looking forward to hearing from you.
  14. Hi everyone, I'm a newbie (albeit 66yrs old) of two weeks. Two weeks ago I bought and got everything set up including some track and a Hornby loco and Hornby DCC Select and power clips etc, etc and I installed a Hornby decoder in a Hornby loco and all was running perfectly - so pleased. Then I consulted my local model shop about a second loco and thats when the problem started. I'm sorry this next bit is so long winded but its all I can think of but to tell the whole story. The shop convinced me that a Bachmann loco with a Next 18 chip would be fine. And I saw it run fine on their test track (a DC set up). When I got home I installed the chip and allocated it a unique address on the Select, having taken my other one off the track, but it ran very poorly, to put it mildly, (jerky, taking ages to get up to speed and squeaking). I took it back for advice. They swapped it for an identical model and inserted a different make of chip and changed the address to '1' and the acceleration rate but using a different make of controller - a 'T' shaped thing. When I got it home and tried it, it didn't run at all. I took it back. It ran OK again this time on their test DCC track with their controller, and this time, obviously it had the chip installed. I figured the chips just hadn't been compatible with my Select. They gave me a refund. So at this point I have had two identical locos and two different chips. The problem is, immediately after all this, my original loco no longer runs perfectly as it did before. Ostensibly nothing has changed except the events above. It now makes a clicking sound, it doesn't run smoothly but shimmies slightly left and right, runs a little jerkily, and 50 percent power which was previously just right is now little more than a crawl. I have reset my Select, re-addressed the loco and adjusted the acceleration setting but it makes no difference. What to do? Whatever they did somehow messed up or somehow irreversibly reprogrammed my once perfect set up? Nothing else happened that could have. All I can think of doing, is to replace the Select and trash the original loco (an expense that I would like to avoid). I have now ordered a second loco am afraid to put it on my system in case it gets 'messed up' too, by whatever occurred due to the sequence of events. Once again, sorry this is so long winded. Many thanks, it sees strange, I know. Hope you can help.
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