Matty1707822508

All good I’m positive it is both rails that the irj’s goto brain fade I think

Yeah totally agree about ballasting especially cause really I think it best to goto dcc as soon as I can. But even as u said maybe still need extra wiring. Not the great solderer so and I know apparently they r a weak link I may just go for rail joiner type but then again it think I have enough track to atleast have a go at soldering droppers to rail and being that I can get away with every 3 ft of track it’s not a massive task at all. Every bit of track is a massive task now and sorry I didn’t know I’d basically posted the same twice. Only question is though how do I fit the irj it looks in the schematic to be two where the yellow is and when ever I zoom in it looks like two per point, wouldn’t b just one I need doesn’t power still need to flow through other rail? Or is it correct to have the two where it says on the schematic on how and where to put them as I said it’s just not clear to me if I need on one per rail at the yellow parts or the two as it looks. Also if only one irj do I need it to b on a specific rail and do I do them all on the same rail u know A or B rail but I’m so close to getting my trains running finally. Thanks again for ur helpful

Thanks so much for ur help mate it’s been fantastic and am wrapped I have the correct ones. So they r both connected In schematic together on the same point and rails. Or is it one per side cause kinda looks like it basically the right or switched sides of the point that aren’t going straight. Or is my zoom playing up? Again it’s basically trackmat f on Dc using the hm6000 and now have 2 hm6010s so should b covered and yes the trains would b running the same way even in the extension which so far I have 2x curved points but don’t foresee any more may one but don’t think so so polarity shouldn’t b an issue now and I also still had link wires mucking it up even more I think yet all polarity is the same which I’m told shouldnt b an issue but I’m gonna remove them at the same time as rip up the points most r done and ready to go. It’s 10pm here in Australia and I had a few appointments so im knackered but so glad they’re correct just need to double check that two r fitted to the one rail or does it need a normal joiner on one rail or both on the same rail. Again greatful for ur help and advice im so happy im getting so close now. Any info would b great by by the look of the schematic it seems two on a particular rail of the point. My Xoom isn’t great thanks mate

I’m soooooo greatful it’s only taken about 3 weeks to get the black ones that’s fantastic new for me mate I finally can pull my points apart and sort this out! Finally uve made my year!!!! I thought oh here we go unless I can get a lift it’ll b 2 week affair correcting this problem. I have two hm6010 now so I’m getting there but someone corrected me quoting r617 I thought it was r917 anyway I’m sooooo very greatful to here I have plenty cause I kinda ordered 3 packs of 12 so hopefully I’ll have enough can now concentrate on more devices if need which I think so there’s so many points as it is and I’m adding on top of that doing my extension. Won’t be massive but just enough for bridge, maybe a town?? I’m sure u know how it is. But I’ve had half a wardrobe full of ballast, water resins just soo much scenery I can finally sort out once trains r running correctly, all relevant point motors are in place practically so this will b great!

Hi all about a month or two ago if u look up my profile or wateva the discussion is all there but the solution u guys gave me was unbelievably helpful a schematic and but conclusion was that I need those insulated fishplates on my points. Cool I thought! Not so cool in Australia! Firstly I’ve had nothing but drama firstly waiting for a power pack that came finally came then I dunno how it happened but ended up with normal fishplates so I call them and say no I need the plastic ones. Yesterday finally those arrive and they’re R920 black plastic type joiners so again I don’t know if I have right ones or not it’s clearly not the R617 normal plastic type they’re a black type that say they insulated joiners but I dunno and help about that would great. But essentially I’m working with trackmat ext f so finished that and are also working on an extension thanks again in advance everyone was excellent last time

sorry it’s a late reply but ur right I have a polarity issue and for some reason I have both tracks the same way A is at back and B is the front. The layout worked fine with 2 trains prior to the changing and are in the middle of making a third extension to track mat F. Also probably giving me another headache but anyway. It’s taken so long since I first posted this was given a schematic and all to fix but it included plastic joiners. That’s cool luckily I haven’t stuck track down or ballasted but really wanna get on with the train and scenery. But some how I’d either ordered 3 packs of new fish plates only to send back for wat I thought was wat I needed, I sent em back asked for the plastic joiners next thing today arrives these black isolated fishplates R920. Again I don’t think these would b wat I need and I’ve only got the part no. today as r917 for the ones I thought I needed but didn’t know till today but ur 100% correct I need to fix the polarity issue and go one step at time cause it was when I added the 2nd loop and power track the same way which is just blatantly dumb! Told its ok to have the 2 power tracks it’s just the way this layout is I have to stop one train at stations ect one for goods ect and the extension (probably another HM6000 also but have multimeter ect and are about to go fault finding! Thanks for ur info if u think I do need plastic joiners for new section or even old pls let me know or know if I do have to have to fishplates will these R920’s do the job. The outta loop I have curved points for the extension but not using it yet obviously. Thanks heaps again

Hi guys I’m so sorry I have had nothing to update was waiting on firstly isolated fishplates and another hm6010 but somehow I ordered normal fishplates so had to send back now they’ve sent me R920 isolating fish plate which do gap the point obviously but I thought I needed R917 or they were more plasticy than the back ones r these gonna work for wat I need which is obviously to change the polarity when that switch and a couple more but I’m a back to being disappointed cause was hanging for these plastic joiners so I can continue now I’m not sure if this wat I’ll need or suffice or not and have to get the others I only just got that part no. R917 today. Any help would really b great appreciated. Thank u

Hi I’m sooo sorry haven’t looked at my profile cause had another question but unfortunately I couldn’t really say 100% as I actually hadn’t ran two trains due to track work but the layout which had the link wires certainly drove and worked normally till i started changin the polarity then it had a problem l. But two separate circuits it’ll do easy otherwise insulated fish plates

Thanks so much again everyone for all ur help. I’m not so much canny for money I was willing especially now that I know how things need to b I have absolutely and had already thought of getting another of each hm6000 for new part and I do have 4 locos and certainly another one atleast hm6010 i just was so dejected and didn’t know I’m still waiting an Australian power supply for the first hm6010. So yes I have heard that exact thing about the fishplate droppers for dcc I gotta stop being lazy and do more soldering. Really atm thanks to u guys I’ll b very soon up and finally get the trains running then. I don’t want nor unfortunately have the room to do a big layout so I believe a couple more HM devices will b all I’d need. Till it’s not! One day when a bit healthier I’ll get to dcc. Again so very grateful!!! Thanks, Matt

Community thanks so very much that schematic along with the advice has made this much clearer much less daunting and shows me exactly wat I need to do. Thought it may end up cost another $50-100aus and yes maybe I’ll get another hm6010 100% when they finally have Australian plug availabile again!! Lol! No very greatful have a much beta idea now of how to proceed which is all I wanna do. I have a cupboard full of scenery but if my trains won’t run reliably why bother! Was really disappointed at one point and even thought “we’ll it’s not a huge layout and they say u can get away with dropper wires every 3ft so maybe buy some fishplate droppers to slow start aiming for dcc but really not the time for it. Bit crook, and money wise. While I’m at it if I’m slowly gonna build towards dcc r those presoldered fishplates ok to use and will I still need insulated fishplates? No biggie u guys have really answered my main question so I’m really really thankful

Excellent and very greatful for ur help. So as far as I can think of is that one that which switches to outta loop also mind u need to continuity test on that point cause thats certainly the one in question so that point needs ifp as far as i know I fit one to each point one on opposing ends, i dunno if if I can show my layout but just wondering roughly how many would b needed. Especially with new section coming off also I believe I need a special switch and does that mean I have fire two switches or the new is it on/on switch? Green one anyway. Just don’t know how many I’d need incase I can’t upload track plan just pretend it trackmat f that would b greatly appreciated and again very very appreciative for all ur help! Train people r the best!

Appreciate ur help greatly everyone and yes I do have to try understand the isolating joiners, Do I need them on all points or just where loops cross and so u have to flick switch when the train traverses through those points. Now I’ve started another line I’ve made it maybe more complicated but ther would b something 8-9 points on layout 4 of which are at the crossing section.

Hi I have had the Hornby Flying Scotsman and over time built to track pack f and am extending on basically diagonal ends, one that will via a curved point where the engine she delves off to the left and the on opposite end where the siding goes off I’ve installed a curved point there to run track all the way to where I’m gonna extend base board buy a bit. But that basically runs parallel to siding and behind engine shed. Going for bridge ect. To the point I apologise I’ve just bought the HM6000 and though I have the HM6010 I can’t use it cause of power pack issue that’ll hopefully be fix asap but basically prior to the hm6000 there where some drop out spots but layout worked fine no matter wat point I manually selected due to link wire I could run two locos as I’m trying stay dc though eventually when I can afford it goto dcc. But when I flicked a point for a train to go from inner two outta loop it just shut down saying polarity issues. I do still have the link wires and also know have two power tracks for inner and outta loop which I don’t think u can do?! This maybe my problem I really don’t know. If there a schematic of how to wire it correctly so I can actually control two locos separately as that the whole point of the app I think. I just have no knowledge on insulating fishplates or how all that works I sorta get polarity to an extent but very limited this is my first build. Any help would b fantastic and greatly appreciated thanks so much for ur time

Me from Australia at age 6, I was the older brother so would sheer the controller in the sandpit! Lol I’m now 45 thanks again for letting me into the forum

Thanks so much for information, I had a bad feeling that would b the case and have to buy more I6000’s plus I also have about 8 point motors so that also mean several decoders but looks like my best bet is ultimately go DCC just was hoping to get away Dc for a bit. DC has sent me broke so far, I fell down the rabbit hole!!! But yes I think DCC may be a beta investment. I was only thinking of I6000 for more train control but from wat I’ve seen DCC is the best to aim for. Again appreciate ur help