UB

Thanks, that is very helpful. I tried to send other photos of the toggle switch fittings but it failed to go through ( they take so long it may still go through as it appears to have left me!) I will do what I can to test as you suggest and get back when I can. many thanks UZb

To clarify: I installed the points and checked each one directly through the transformer , not through a capacitor, and they all worked. I wired all the points through a capacitor and some worked both ways, some worked one way only, and some not at all. I rechecked all my wiring was satisfied that they were correctly wired and then connected the 14 leads (from 14 points) into the multiple sockets ( as shown in the previous photo) now nothing works although on the first try a ‘twitch’ occurred on the point which suggests that some power is getting through. Could the sockets be too resistant for such a lightweight current? thanks

I tested all the point motors individually prior to collectively wiring them. They all worked. All previous discussions on this subject have led me to this point. Prior to using these multiple sockets, some of the points worked, some didn’t and some worked one way and then not go back. I try one at a time , never more than one at the same time. I have meticulously checked my wiring and cannot understand where the problem lies. since some worked prior to installing the wires into these sockets I wondered if anyone had used such sockets and if this could be the cause of the problem.

Hi Guys I am now back from my winter break and have returned to the problem of my switching/wiring points. I have checked all my connections and fixed the whole via multiple male female socket sets. However, this does not help because now I am getting no working points. I had checked all my wiring but cannot find a fault. I am attaching a photo of the socket sets to see if any of you have experience of using such things. The reason I have done this is to enable the console to be removable. any advice would be helpful. UB

This information is great, thank you. Although I used a single coloured wire I added a green or red piece of tape to identify each routing. I now have another round of wiring to check. But I must admit you have all helped me a lot. I will be off in a couple of weeks for an extended winter break and hopefully I can get the points working properly by then. Cheers.

I checked every motor individually prior to installing 8n the layout and they all worked good albeit that the were all tested on a very local circuit of about 300mm length from switch/capacitor/motor. I then disconnected them all and put them into the layout. The only thing I could think of is a miss-wiring on my part. I have also checked that each one can be manually changed and that is all ok. When it switches one way but will not switch back I have manually turned it back and the switch operates it one way again. Q. If a wire is loose on one of the motor terminal or on the back of the switch will it operate one way or not operate at all?

The CDU is as shown in the previous picture and is powered from a Hornby transformer said to be outputting 15v. The wire used throughout is PITACS bell wire which is slightly thicker that the wires connected to the motors (some came with very thin wires already attached and some I wired with the bell wire). As stated previously the motors are a standard type some as used by Liverpool Model Train Club and some brand new bought from Hattons. I enclose a couple of pics from the installation as best I can.

Well that is quite a number of helpful answers and also much that is a little beyond my capability. What I can add is that the capacitor was purchased at Hattons and has to be accepted that it is fit for purpose (I did explain to them what I was doing. In addition I bought the toggle switches from them and they do spring back once flicked either way. I checked all the motors using one of these toggle switches through this capacitor prior to installing them into the layout. My conclusion must be that my wiring is loose/faulty miss-connected. I found one loose connection this morning, so I will go over the whole system and hopefully sort much of it. I will raise the technical issues raised by a number of you with my nephew who is an electrician who may be able to educate me a little better. Once again thanks to you all. I have attached a photo of the capacitor- the red tape is just to hold it in position on the board.

Thanks for the info. I have set up a board on which my switches are identified per junction, so yes the capacitor is only operating one junction switch at any one time. the junction motors are all the same, so I can only assume that the problem lies with the wiring as some work and some don’t and some work opening but not closing. I will go over the wiring to confirm i have secure contacts throughout. Thanks for your help.

I have wired 14 junctions through one capacitor to 14 switches. Most of them work but at the moment I haven’t yet back checked all the connections ( which I will do tomorrow). I read somewhere that a capacitor should only service up to 6 junctions, but since mine would only be operating one junction at a time I made an assumption that it would be ok with one capacitor…….. am I right or wrong? secondly some switches work one way ‘opening’ but not ‘closing’ ……. Is that likely to be a wire connection or something else?

Many thanks, will get onto those spares contacts.

Hi Guys, thanks for your help. I have been able to put the tender back together….. however, when I took it apart the two little springs behind the terminals and their tiny plugs came bouncing out and I just haven’t been able to find them. If you know where I can get such spares kindly let me know, otherwise it’s a new tender! This is one of two Scotsman, this one I was going to give to my great nephew this coming weekend, now I will have to test my generosity and decide if he gets my working one and I persist on trying to get this one fixed. oh well! Makes life interesting! thanks again, this forum is a great help having used it before on another problem Bill

Can anybody help? One of my tender-driven tenders broke down with a rattling noise. When I opened it up there was a copper piece ‘floating’. I have no idea where this piece goes. Can you help.