DCC_Dublo

Thankyou to everyone who has answered this question. I have taken on the information above into consideration (particularly about the cylinder drains). I also found another forum stating that the smallest radius they were able to get their Hornby Princess Coronation Class around (with the out of the box alternative flanged wheels fitted) was 4 feet! That's just over 1200mm if you're using metric like me. I definitely don't have the space for that, so I think I'll just stick to flangeless wheels as I'm not really keen to modify my models to the extent stated above just for the sake of flanged wheels. However I'm still keen to fit cylinder drains. I should also add the main reason I am looking to use Peco bullhead code 75 rail is because I want the wider sleeper spacing closer to hand built track (or even EM or P4 Gauge) without the skill and time required to build points from scratch or modify loco chassis completely. Also I like the single piece switch blade on the bullhead track. So although it would probably be smarter to go with Tillig's Elite track system for running smoothness, its not what I'm personally looking for. Thanks, DCC_Dublo.

Fazy, just to clarify I was never thinking of running set track geometry under radius 4, I am thinking of running 572mm (just under 1ft 11in) as an absolute minimum radius, but with almost all other curves being 706mm (just under 2ft 4in) or over, and wasn’t going to use small bullhead points (again, if Peco makes them in the future), but I asked just so I could give advice to others if the question arises in the future. I also am using spiral curves (easements) at the start and end of most of my corners to achieve better running rather than just simple curves. Also now I think of it I believe the standard streamline code 75 or code 100 points are the same geometry as the bullhead ones (just with insul or electro frog and different sleepers and switchblades and flat bottom rail), so theoretically someone asking if they can run their flanged bogies/cylinder drains on small bullhead points is the same as someone asking if they can run flanged bogies/cylinder drains on small streamline points? Also when you say you have large points and 5th radius curves, do you mean your Coronation with flanged wheels won’t run on that either, and it needs to be larger? Or does it run at that radius? Thanks, DCC_Dublo

Hello, I tried to search for a discussion answering this question before I made a new discussion (as I thought it would be quite a common question), but the closest I could find was the following: https://uk.hornby.com/community/forum/hornby-dublo-scotsman-rear-pony-wheels-349734 This answered part of my question but not fully, as I do intend on purchasing the Dublo Flying Scotsmans when they arrive in Australia, but not exclusively LNER A1 Pacifics. For context, I am currently designing my model railway layout which will occupy approximately a space of a 3175mm x 3060mm (10ft 5in x 10ft) rectangle, and have a 1778mm x 1180mm (5ft 10in x 3ft 10in) hole in the centre. There will be two levels one 160mm (6 & 19/64 inches) above the other. I am planning to use Peco's Streamline Code 75 Bullhead track system. On the upper level I have a double track mainline. What is the minimum radius I could use for a 51mm parallel track spacing (as the Peco track is designed for) whilst being able to run trains such as the Dublo Scotsman above with the cylinder drains and flanged rear bogie wheels fitted? Also for the other parts of the layout with single track, what would the minimum radius curve I could use, and would Peco streamline code 75 bullhead small radius points (that currently at the time of writing don't exist), or medium radius points be too tight? To give you an idea of some of the trains I wanted to run here are a couple of classes I can think of that would need a larger radius: LNER: A1 A4 P2 LMS: Princess Coronation Princess Royal 0-10-0 Lickey Banker "Big Bertha" GWR: King Class Castle Class Country Class SR: Merchant Navy Class West Country/Battle of Britain Class (both original and rebuilt) BR: Britannia Class Standard Class 8 (Duke of Gloucester) Class 9F Class 37 Class 43 (HST) Class 50 Class 55 If you couldn't tell by my loco list I don't model any particular region or era (but I do really like the 1920s to the 1940s steam era) If there is anyone who models any of the above steam classes with cylinder drains and flanged wheels (if applicable), I would highly appreciate hearing what what the minimum radius they run around is. Many thanks, DCC_Dublo.

Thank you Fishmanoz and Aussie Fred. I thought that GST was included but I just wanted to be 100% sure.

Hello, I am trying to get my hands on some of the new Dublo Scotsman Centenary locos for me in Australia. When I put my address into Hornby's ordering site the price automatically changes from (all prices listed are in GBP) 352.99 to about 332.74. Now I understand that this price correction will be removing UK VAT, but does anyone know if this new price has accounted for Australian GST and any associated import taxes that apply? (Goods and Services Tax. Our equivalent of VAT which is only 10%, rather than 20%) I've quickly run the numbers and the math seems to suggest that GST is included, but I wanted to see from other people if what I think is true. Maybe anyone that has bought anything from Hornby that lives in Australia could give me an insight into this? Thanks.

Hello everyone, To answer ColinB’s question: I honestly have no idea what kind of micro motor I was wanting to use. Something that fits, is powerful enough to spin the fan and doesn’t draw too much power, as well as not spinning at something ridiculous like 50,000 rpm. That’s quite literally the criteria I have. I had a look on eBay for the adapter boards you recommended by blwtechnicalservices and he was a seller with no products. I don’t think they sell them to customers in Australia :( Flashbang and ColinB: The main reason I wanted to upgrade my ESU LokSound V3.5 actually has nothing to do with the micro motor. I would have just kept that decoder if that was the reason. It is actually because I would like to add a sound file (I believe made by Jamie Goodman) for a Class 50 which walks all over Hornby’s sound file (when paired to a good speaker). Hence the reason for the upgrade to either the 21MTC or PluX22 variants of the LokSound V5. I also would prefer not to add a second decoder to the locomotive just for the sake of simplicity. And when it comes to DCC addresses, I would like to use one. As Fishmanoz pointed out the only way I might get it to work is with 2 addresses. Not what I’m personally looking for. But a good idea none the less, (at least seems so to me, someone who has very little experience with DCC). It should be noted I was under the impression that the real life Class 50’s roof fan turned on and off when needed (not in sync with the motor) and all I wanted was an on/off function. I don’t really care about varying speed of the fan. Or an I mistaken and was it crankshaft driven or something else similar in real life? LMSFan72 thank you for the drawings. I know they aren’t of this circuit board but honestly anything that might help me with this PCB which seems to have no online drawings are useful. I think what I might have to do from here is ask a friend of mine (who is good at electronics) to trace the board for me (as I wouldn’t have a clue where to start) and I’ll get back to this discussion with those findings. Maybe it will help someone else trying to figure out something else with this particular PCB? Might do the lighting boards at each end of the loco whilst I’m at it (unless they already exist online… I haven’t looked yet). Edit: I almost forgot. Thankyou to 96RAF for clearing up those questions about the voltage and amperage.

Hello, I have a Hornby Class 50 (R2802XS) and want to scrap the traditional rubber band/flywheel driven mechanism of the Roof Fan for a micro motor. I am going to replace the LokSound V3.5 DCC Decoder for a LokSound V5 (ESU 58419 or 58412, depending on how difficult it would be to convert it to PluX22) and also replace the speaker (due to the different impedance rating needed, 8Ω - 32Ω, rather than 100Ω). The reason I want to convert the loco to PluX22 is because the socket has powered outputs from Aux3 to Aux7 whilst a 21MTC has these as logic level outputs only (cannot supply power, only a signal). And if I wanted to add cab lights to Aux 1 and 2, I have no more powered outputs on the plug. Instead I would have to solder another wire to one of the pads on the decoder (not very plug-and-play), or rectify power from the wheel pickups to power the motor, which requires more electronics (and money). On the Manual on ESU’s website it states that each powered output can handle up to 250mA of current, and I run the Hornby Elite controller (with a booster on an isolated piece of track) and they should run at 15V. I have 2 questions: Am I correct to say that the micro motor (if I want to power it through the decoder) has to draw less than 250mA and be rated for 16V or more?Can I just remove the PCB in the locomotive (1621-X021) and replace it for a PluX22 adapter (e.g. ESU 51958 PluX22 adapter board 1) and attach the lights, cab lights, micro motor and speaker to that? Or would I have to add my own resistors or other electrical components in? If so, does anyone have a wiring schematic for this board? I was not able to find one. Answers to these questions would be highly appreciated, DCC_Dublo. Picture of the existing 21MTC PCB ESU’s Manual stating a maximum of 250mA of power per output. PluX22 connector has power from Aux1 to Aux7 on the pin.