KL1707822813

Thanks for the advice. I had a think about the drawbar and back end of the engine being moved up and down, as this seemed a place to start before getting into wiring. A bit of jiggling track later to smooth things out and close up some gaps between tracks and it all seems to be working fine.

Pretty simple, but having more available in different company liveries, especially pre-grouping. So the S&DJ is great and looks good, but why not have Midland Railway as well? I think the 4- and 6- carriages are great, but where are the engines to match? Scanning the catalogue and it feels like there is more for the south of England, and less for Midland, Lancashire and Yorkshire, North Eastern, etc.

Hello, I've noticed a couple of problems with A1 (R 3989 'Knight of the Thistle') and A4 tenders (from R 2798 'Merlin') that I have. Both of them short out going from a radius 3 curve points into the inside radius 2 curve. I think one of the tender wheels is causing the problem just as it gets to the frog. The A4 tender - which I think is older and doesn't have a wired connections to the main engine - seems to stop the engine at a standard point I have on my layout. It's always the same place, perhaps suggesting there is a power issue there? It only happens when the engine is quite slow (but that's not the point of an A4, right?) Both engines are not problems when they are run without the tenders. I don't have any other tender engines (yet!) to test out if it is these 8-wheel tenders that are the problem. Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks for all you thoughts. So I don't need to put in insulated fishplates (and wire up with a switch) but could do if I wanted a programming track or some 'dead' storage sidings. I don't have any soldering skills, so I'm looking at buying pre-soldered fishplates. I'm guessing that they are still better than the points clips at supplying power around the track?

Jouef had a double slip, but not sure if they fit Hornby track geometry: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133012599452

A newbie question! I've pretty much got my track layout sorted so am starting to think about pinning things down and wiring up. At the moment I've got stay alive clips in the points and one connection from my Hornby select to the track. I'm thinking of wiring up the track with dropper lines pre-soldered onto fishplates, and having a wiring bus underneath (maybe not to make every bit of track live, as some siding are for storage of trains). But will I need isolating fishplates between different sections so that there is only one set of power dropper lines for each section? I'm using Hornby points so if I take out the Bee-Gees clips in the points will that affect things too?

Thanks, that might give me just enough room. What about the small dark oblong piece that the capacitor is attached to?

Sorry about the multiple posts. I clicked the post button and nothing happened at my end and it was only after doing a control click that the message popped up that it had been sent to a moderator. A fault in either my web browser or the forum setup. Mod note - use the three dot context menu to delete each duplicate post.

Hello! Hoping for some advice as I can't fit a DCC chip to my R3703 Peckett because of two components (capacitor?) sticking out and blocking the slot for the chip. See the photos: I think from the leaflet that came with the engine that they should be pointing straight up and flush with the motor casing. Any ideas about what I can do? Would they bend into the position they are meant to be in?